Page 6 of dougfitz Travel Blog Posts


Europe » Spain » Castile & León » León April 18th 2010

Alone in the Albergue Spent an interesting evening in last night. Antonio had left the albergue in my untried hands for ´just 30 minutes´ so that he could go and get a meal at the bar. I had been writing up my notebook and thinking about some stories to tell for the next time I had a decent period of time on the internet. Earlier, I had wandered down to the same bar, but it was so smoky, and Wal, Ian etc were clearly well socially lubricated, that I decided not to stay. So I was pretty quiet company, and wasn't going to too much mind a short spell by myself. Two and a half hours later, they all returned together. I wondered whether Antonio had been encouraged to stay by the others, or just lost ... read more
Near Hermanillas
Roman Road
Roman Road

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » León April 17th 2010

Options Today presented two quite different paths. One could take the senda after Shanagun, and continue on it for a couple of days, or one could head towards Calzadilla de los Hermanillos and have a quiet country walk on the way, and then walk along about 20km of Roman road the next day. The latter sounded like a good choice. Notebook Entry Started with a short stint to Moratinos, adjusted pack distribution and then on to San Nicolas del Real Camino and breakfast. Long walk into Shanagun. Didn´t stop - should have. Another longish walk through crop land to Calzade de Coto for lunch. Had difficulty finding the bar and had to ask a local who showed me the way. It still amazes me the generosity shown by local people to pilgrims. Nice walk then through ... read more

Europe » Spain » Castile & León April 16th 2010

Notebook Entry The notebook today is more interesting for the things that aren´t going to get a mention than for those that did! Today was an unforgetable, forgetable day. There was nothing particularly grand, but many small moments where everything was in its proper place and time. There was the bird song in the early morning, and the help given to get my rain cover on my pack when it started to rain, and even the rain itself. It was interesting to think that when there are no options, walking in the rain and listening to its constant tapping on one´s rainhood can be peaceful and tranquil too.... read more

Europe » Spain » Castile & León April 15th 2010

Notebook Entry Early departure from Fromista and had a little difficulty finding the way out of the town. Raining for much of the way to Villasirga. I had taken the river road, and had storm pants on to keep the wind out. Long straight stretch of senda into Carrion de los Condes. Chose to stay in a hostel which offered a bath. One needed to have been trained as a magician´s assistant to get into it, but it was delightful just the same. Nice menu tipico (typical regional meal) at a local restaurant. ... read more
Emerita Virgen del rio
Emerita Virgen del rio
Carrion de los Condes

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Palencia April 14th 2010

Notebook Entry Early morning departure after being woken early in the common room. Descent out of Castrojeriz then fairly steep ascent onto the mesata. Bitter wind and had fully regalia on for most of day into Fromista. After Itero de la Vega another, slower climb to the Tierra de Campos, and then steep descent before a relatively flat walk into Boadilla del Camino. Picked up beanie on way in - turned out it belonged to Nik, one of the young women from Cairns. Long flat walk along the Canal de Castilla. Close to Fromista, Orla and some of the other young ones began catching up at the end of the canal stage. She was able to recover some credibility for the Irish! ... read more
DSCF0225
Alto Mostelares
Alto Mostelares

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Burgos April 13th 2010

Knee problems Today´s walk was mostly over fair to good farm road, and some minor sealed road coming into Castrojeriz. Had a pleasant early morning walk into Hontanas following breakfast at the albergue at San Bol. Leaving Hontanas, I slipped and jarred my knee. Slow and painful walk then for the remainder of the way to Castrojeriz, where I decided to call it a day rather than press on. Despite this, there was a bright moment. I was a little way past San Anton, a ruin, and saw three older women walking towards the road I was on. They were all rugged up and just appeared to be out for a stroll. They arrived at the intersection, turned and came walking up towards me. I thought they were about to pass, but they stopped, and one ... read more
Near Hontanas
San Anton
San Anton

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Burgos April 12th 2010

Notebook Entry Plan was to go to Hontanos, as guidebook stated San Bol albergue only open from May. Didn´t quite work that way. Leaving Burgos was a much more pleasant walk than the entry the previous day. Wind became bitter about two hours into walk, and I progressively rugged up to be the Michelin Man. Spent rest of day trying to get layering right. Long climb from Rabe onto the mesata, and rugged up all the way at Fuente de Pratorre - a font in name only as it was dry. Big lunch at Hornillos, then walked to San Bol. Wind really up and walking with pack getting quite difficult, so I decided to take the chance on the albergue being open. An extra couple of hundred metres if it wasn´t, and a better night if ... read more
Rabe de las Calzados
Meseta landscape
Meseta landscape

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Burgos April 11th 2010

Notebook Entry This was a mixed day of rural walking leaving Atapuerca and a long slog around the airport and then the suburbs to get into Burgos. Getting out of Atapuerca passed a penned up flock of sheep with one lone ewe on the outside of the fence, wanting to get in. Long climb to top of ridgeline, then down into the Burgos valley. Couple of delightful small villages - strange combination of ruins and new construction. Burgos very busy especially in evening. Visited cathedral - made up for the long slog. It is magnificent, both in its basic structure and the chapels that have been added over time. Albergue was near the cathedral. Used the private albergue with about 20 places, so was generally pretty quiet and well behaved.... read more
N1 near Villafria
Burgos Cathedral
Burgos Cathedral

Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Burgos April 10th 2010

Reveille and breakfast I had woken about 0600, but had been warned that guests weren´t to rise before 0700. So I quietly tidied up and waited. While one might have argued about the precise timing, at a few minutes to seven, there was a reveille played into the bedrooms. It was not so much that I expected it, but it wasn´t unexpected. Reveille was followed by a range of motivational music, and breakfast was at 0730 - pronto. A Boring, Difficult Morning According to my guidebook, this morning would bring three long, hard climbs. What it didn´t say was that it would also bring some short savage climbs in and out of creeklines, and two very long stretches of broken up forestry track. The intermediate destination was San Juan de Ortega, and by the time I ... read more
On the Camino
On the Camino
On the Camino

Europe » Spain » La Rioja April 9th 2010

Leaving Granon There seems to be a bit of a ritual in the smaller albergue where cena y desayuno (dinner & breakfast) are part of the service that there is a slow start to the morning, or at least an ordered start. Compared to albergue who do not provide breakfast, where there is a bit of a free for all starting about 0630 as the early starters get away. At Granon, the Italian hostel keeper had breakfast at the table when I went up, and clearly did not expect people to wait to gather. Rather, we each ate and then prepared to leave. I was on the road shortly after 0800. The day was pleasant walking, with some familiar faces along the road as we passed and stopped, passed and stopped. Late in the day, the ... read more
Granon at Dawn
With the Korean Trio




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