Page 2 of dougfitz Travel Blog Posts


Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Åre July 15th 2018

My best efforts to get away a little early were foiled. I had hoped to avoid as much traffic as I could by departing before 8:00 am even though this leg was only about 2.5 hours of walking. Suffice to say I did a complete unpack and repack of my backpack before departing. There were magnificent views across the Medstugusjön to the mountains on the border. My guidebook suggests the taller peak is in Norway, and without any way of confirming this on a map, I accepted that. Later I found a good topographic map in the hallway where I stayed, and confirmed that all the mountains on the horizon were in Norway. It was interesting to see that there were still a fair number of lakeside cottages. I'm not sure that i was expecting that. ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Östersund July 6th 2018

Leaving Sörbygärden was straightforward. The St Olavsleden route follows the road beside the railway line pretty much all the way into Ostersund. What was different was the number of other people who used the quiet roads for exercise. This wasn't obvious to start with, when quite early on a miidle aged bloke jogged past, and a short time later came jogging back. Then it was a couple of older men walking a dog, a cyclist, several more runners of various ages, and then a couple training with loaded backpacks. And it then stopped. I had reached a parking area which I now suspect was a convenient place to start a pleasant run along a quiet network of tracks and roads in a nature reserve of some sort. It was now a rather mundane traverse of a ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 5th 2018

I was starting to get into a nice walking cadence when it occurred to me that it had been a little while since I had last seen a marker. The little while that is the spacing between markers can vary considerably. In some places there were markers on every power pole along a stretch of road which offered no option but to keep going in any case. More often there were prominant markers at road and track junctions to confirm to keep going, or to turn onto a new path or road. In any case, I turned to check, and spotted a road a few hundred metres back that I hadn't paid any attention to as I passed it. Sure enough, I had missed a turn onto a delightfully shaded section of road and track. The ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 4th 2018

There was no way but to go slowly this morning. The S:t Olavsleden route was constrained between the lake shore and the railway line. These, I assume, are relatively level, but the path through the forest managed to climb and fall, twist and turn, and generally present as convoluted a way as possible to proceed. While it might have been technically difficult, it was also quite wonderful to be well away from the main road for a change. Trains did disrupt the quiet, but never for long. Although the road was closer in the afternoon, and had to be walked on for some short stretches, most of the time was on forest path and gravel roads. I had arranged to stay with the Martinsson family, in Rita's studio by the lake. What a pleasure this was. ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 3rd 2018

Revsunds prästgärd is run by Rueben, a Dutchman who was involved in creating the S:t Olavsleden route from the many individual routes that came together and linked up. The signage alone is clearly a massive undertaking, with everything from small 20mm or so square tiles on stakes, through 50mm or so signs on a variety of square and oblong red painted timber boards and hung, nailed, screwed and strapped to posts, trees etc, and finally big welcome signs at various county and local government boundaries. Revsunds is also a meeting place where several of the St Olav routes meet in Sweden before heading off again in different ways to Trondheim. So I put in a pretty big day to get here from Mordviken (Murder Bay). Most of the morning was spent on quiet roads and forest ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 2nd 2018

This day didn't start that auspiciously. The route stayed on roads of one form or another until after Bräcke, and it appears that I walked past an opportunity to collect a pilgrim stamp. What made up for that was staying at Eriksberg Gärden, run in a most relaxed manner by Tord. He is in the process of restoring a building that would once have been house, horse stables and cattle barn all rolled into one. He also presented a very nice piece of fish for the main course of our evening meal followed by a combination of wild and cultivated strawberries we collected from Tord's garden. Afterwards, Tord invited me to go with him while he helped a neighbour set his fishing nets. We were collected, and drove down to where this 81 year-old moors his ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 1st 2018

There were no bears Just before i left, Miriam, who helps run Täljegården, warned me that if I should meet a bear today, I should sing to it. While I was prepared to treat this as a practical joke, it was said so seriously that it made me wonder what I might choose to sing. At which point I realized that I barely knew snippets of anything but the Australian National Anthem, and I didn't quite know how 'whose lands are girt by sea' would work on a bear intent on girting me. Sometimes, things like that can stay with you the whole day! Avoiding the Main Road There are times when staying off the E14, the highway the St Olavsleden generally follows in Sweden, isn't a walk by the river, but rather a long, continuous ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County June 30th 2018

Getting ready for Sunday The lovely chileana whose place I stayed at last night reminded me that it was unusual for shops to open on Sundays, so I would need to make any food purchases before leaving Fränsta. This meant waiting for the ICA down the road to open at 0900. So it was another late start, and by the time I had done a couple of circuits of the aisles, etc trying to find things, it was really getting on. A pleasant river walk For much of the morning, the path stayed close to the river. Trail conditions varied from level path well padded with pine needles and leaf litter, to ankle and knee threatening bare rocks and twisted exposed trre roots. Later in the morning it was a return to the gris àvagen - ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County » Sundsvall June 29th 2018

Fellow Pilgrims There was a mother and daughter with their two dogs in an adjacent cabin, and the mother came over to see if I was walking to Trondheim. She told me they had been, but the older of the dogs was not coping with the distances required each day. Her choices seemed to turn on getting the dog to a vet, and finding a cheap car so they could continue together in that. I wasn't sure what to think about their predicament, or even whether my thinking about it would add any value, so I put it out of my mind. Ruins, Roads and not much Path The breeze was up enough as I was getting ready to set out to give the vest another try just to keep the wind off my upper body. ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County » Sundsvall June 28th 2018

Getting an Earlier Start My morning routine clearly needs some work, because I still wasn't away until 0925, with just as far to walk as yesterday. Most of the day was spent on a gravel road through forest next to a lake with occasional small farms or farming hamlets. If there was a highlight, it was find a lunch spot in front of a farmhouse with a great view over Stodesjon, the lake beside which I had been walking. My only company was to have a chat with a family group out cycling. We passed each other three times, only because I passed them picnicking at a sandy spot they had found at the side of the road. And then the rain came Sometime near Gålviken, it started to rain. Not heavily, but enough to put ... read more




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