This afternoon was a great highlight for our trip - we were entertained in a Swazi village near the entrance of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. The chief (a 37-year-old widow) was out on royal business, so her daughter led the visit. The local guide, Sicuelo, and his assistant, Sonnboy, first dressed us appropriately by wrapping a cloth around our waist (women) or over one shoulder (men). Sonnboy knotted our wraps, taking care to have the printed image of the king right-side-up and right-side-out. Then we were led into the village. Sicuelo asked us to wait under a tree and not to wander because he had to seek permission for us to enter the village and the chief’s compound. Meanwhile, Sonnboy taught us how to respond to the greeting phrase. After some time Sicuelo brought us into the ... read more

Last night I was so tired I went to bed before 10:00 and thus awoke early just before 6:00 fully refreshed! When I opened the drapes my idyllic view of trees, pond and mountain was obscured by a cloud laying of top of it. After putting some things together, I looked up to see the whole scene clear and bathed in golden dawn light. Magical! I opened the French doors and delighted to hear the birds twittering. Breakfast, like dinner, was held in the Misty Mountain dining room overlooking the infinity pool and the breathtaking view above the mountains to the east, this morning touched by white mist. The menu was confusing - too many unfamiliar choices; I just ate a cold Scandinavian style meal, complete with papaya (tiny pieces and delicious). Then we hit the ... read more

Our tour of Pretoria this morning was minimalist. We went to the Union Building (Victorian grand design) to take photos from across the street and to walk in the beautiful formal garden that cascades down the hill in front of the building. In the park is a gigantic statue of Nelson Mandela with his arms outstretched in an inclusive, welcoming gesture. And we drove to Church Square, the centre of the original city; but, there was construction from road widening which cut off access. There was no parking availab... read more

I am back at the pool, but no little girls to play with. Writing these notes instead. Not sure if the temperature reached 30°, because the pool felt colder today. Although during our visit to Gold Reef City, the heat was sweltering. Our departure this morning at 9:00 took us south, through much more affluent neighbourhoods. We glimpsed the mansions of Cecil Rhodes and other original gold and diamond magnates, now designated as heritage buildings. The government has just started to restore the first one. (In Pretoria more progress has been made, we are told.) We passed Turffontein, which was a White district during apartheid. The houses would fit into any mid-century neighbourhood in Calgary, except they were finished in what looks like sand coloured stucco. We passed closer to the old Johannesburg downtown and glimpsed ... read more

I am really here! After all the planning (for one year) and preparation and excitement, I am actually sitting by the pool of the Garden Court Hotel in a wicker love seat under the trees with the noise of downtown traffic humming in the background. In this garden a hidden bird cries from the trees, emitting a long descending squawk that sounds very much like a baby starting to cry. Too reminiscent of last night on the plane! And on the edge of the pool is a woman with waist-length braids, who has been taking selfies for the last ten minutes! Patrick, the guide who brought me from the airport said that Sandton is a “second downtown”, built in the last thirty years on what used to be farmland. No hotels remain in the old downtown. ... read more