Thursday - woke up to find the clouds gone and a beautiful snow-capped mountain outside our door. So we went for a walk to see the Franz Josef glacier - we got pretty close to it, but didn't actually walk on it. Close up, glaciers are not pristine and white, but dirty, covered with soil and rocks, and the meltwater that flows out of them is milky grey with silt. Access to the area immediately in front of the glacier is by ladder and appears to be controlled by the companies running the tours. However we ignored the various warnings and during a break in the procession of guided tours ascended the latter and made our way to within 20 yds or so of the glacier itself. Close up it is indeed massive, row upon row
... read more