At the crack of dawn the Queen set off for Cerro Brujo and Kicker Rock, about 90 minutes around the island. In the shelter of the coast, the water was as flat as a pancake. Large seabirds with what looks like a red testicle descended from their neck cruised overhead. These are the famous Frigate birds, the males have this bright red inflatable bag which they show off to their prospective one night stands. Once they've got the job done, they bugger off looking for their next prize. Sounds like London on a Saturday night. We arrive at beach for a 'wet landing', which means the panga drops you at the beach and you get your knees wet. First, though, we cruised around the cliff, spotting some sea lions, brown pelicans and blue footed boobies, which
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