Boobies, Bollocks and Hammerheads


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South America » Ecuador » Galápagos » San Cristóbal Island
September 6th 2011
Published: September 9th 2011
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At the crack of dawn the Queen set off for Cerro Brujo and Kicker Rock, about 90 minutes around the island.

In the shelter of the coast, the water was as flat as a pancake. Large seabirds with what looks like a red testicle descended from their neck cruised overhead. These are the famous Frigate birds, the males have this bright red inflatable bag which they show off to their prospective one night stands. Once they've got the job done, they bugger off looking for their next prize. Sounds like London on a Saturday night.

We arrive at beach for a 'wet landing', which means the panga drops you at the beach and you get your knees wet. First, though, we cruised around the cliff, spotting some sea lions, brown pelicans and blue footed boobies, which all looked pretty cool. I'd always maintained I wanted to see these boobies but people always thought I was referring to the female milking machine. It got worse when I used to say I preferred the blue ones (there are red footed boobies too) as people just thought I wanted to see women's breast when it was cold.


We spent an hour or more on the ideallic beach, strolling around taking snaps and admiring the sea lions. Everyone felt in awe of the raw natural beauty of this place with no sign of civilisation ever.

Back on board and heading towards Kicker Rock, the excitement was building. Will we see a Hammerhead? Is it dangerous?

We dropped into the bloody cold water under the shadow of a sheer 1,000 foot cliff. Kicker Rock is a home to many sea birds. Their guano makes its way to the sea and fertilises the plant life, enriching the fish life and attracting hundreds of sharks, who in turn attack maniacs like us.

There are a couple of channels between the cliffs where a reasonable current develops and the sharks love it. Our group filed through looking down ominously. Almost immediately we could see Galapagos Sharks and White Tip Reef Sharks. But the current become too strong and several people piked out to the pangas.

We were dropped off on a less turbulent side of the rock, much to the delight of a resident sea lion. In the water we were treated to a game of kiss-chase as the sea lion whizzed between us and up to our face before darting off like a bloke who wakes in the morning, looks across the bed and realises he had far too many drinks the night before!

Then a loud yell "Hammerheads". Sarah and two others had spotted Hammerheads.

Another snorkeling trip later in the afternoon yielded a wonderful swim with a relaxed giant turtle and a feisty encounter with a male sea lion, protecting his group of females. We also met our first Marine Iguanas. I think they must have been to a Sex Pistols concert because they were spitting every couple of minutes.


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