We woke to the bus joggling us along. I was still quite snoozy after a late night blogging. As breakfast was served on the bus, we pulled back the blinds and enjoyed the ride towards Mar del Plata. Around 10am we pulled into the bus terminal which was a great relief. I was looking forward to, and more than ready for our arrival. This meant I did not have to use the bus toilet which was shorter than me and not much wider than me. Definitely more relaxed after my “pit stop” at the bus terminal, it was time to purchase a local bus pass, the equivalent of a Wellington “Snapper card”, which cost 20 pesos (NZ$6) for six trips. I suggested to Eileen that we walk to our accommodation rather than the usual taxi since ... read more

There was much debate about where to head after Bariloche. Mendoza was a long way and far from BA and Eileen was tired of being cold in the mountains so we settled on Neuquen. After an easy 5 hour ride in a ‘full cama’ bus (the bus equivalent of business class with large recliner seats) I wondered would Neuquen’s claim to fame be its palindromic name. My researching the bus options out of Neuquen as soon as we arrived at the Neuquen bus terminal had Eileen bemused. Why would I not want to stay a few days in a city that boasts a canal irrigation system built to allow crops to grow and be transported, big hydro-electric power stations, huge lakes, petroleum extraction, palaeontology sites, and award winning wines? She had the distinct impression I did ... read more

At 8:30am we departed El Calafate by bus. The way was familiar to us having travelled the opposite way a few days previously. While Lady Eileen snoozed Leigh enjoyed the vista. Once Eileen awoke the main topic of conversation was the series of pylons that spanned over two hundred kilometres but were not linked – does anyone know what they are? An easy border crossing and we arrived at Puerto Natales at 2pm. We checked in and left our bags at the Navimag meeting point then spent the day looking for slippers for Eileen and trying to keep warm. Success; slippers purchased. (I was anticipating a stunning pair of carpinchio leather slippers but the reality was more like granny slippers; warm, effective and comfortable – Leigh. And best of all ... cheap! – Eileen.) We dined ... read more

On 21 April we took a bus across the border back into Argentina to the lovely lakeside town of El Calafate, noted as the gateway to the glaciers and trekking. The good weather we had in Chile was forecast to continue in El Calafate so we booked a day trip to visit the Perito Moreno glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. The world heritage status national park covers 600,000 hectares and has 356 glaciers. The largest glacier is Perito Moreno covering 250 sq km. It is 30 km long, 5 km wide at the front and rising to over 60 meters above the level of the water; very big! We chose a perfect day to visit Perito Moreno glacier with no wind and lots of sunshine. First we took the boat out to see one side ... read more

“BLING BLING”, groan, “BLING BLING”, another groan from Leigh. Yes, a 4:00am alarm to be at the bus station at 5:00am. We taxied down the hill and on the way we passed the French family of four that had stayed in the cabins at the back of our B & B. They were walking in the rain with the girls in tow, five and two and a half years old. Hmmm ... I thought better them than me!! Still very dark but we are underway. Eileen feels the call of nature but she comes scurrying back saying there is no light and when she went to step into the stall her foot landed in a small pond!! Thirty minutes later and still dark the call was sufficiently loud enough for her to venture back to the ... read more