Flew north to San Pedro in the Atacama, with its low-slung adobe houses and dusty streets (avoiding another 20+ hour bus ride !). Cycled out to the remains of the Pukhara fortress, before hiking to a memorial and stunning viewpoint over the desert formations in the early evening light. Lost track of time and ended up locked-in, just preparing to scramble over the 6ft gate when shouts of "hola" eventually roused ranger. On way back ran into a local religious parade, with music and dancers, some in big woolly outfits and masks, making a bizarre sight in the desert sun. Later joined a star-gazing tour, the cloudless high-altitude setting perfect to first spot constellations and zodiac signs, and then use high-powered telescopes to view Jupiter's moons, nebulae and a comet. Short of sleep headed out at
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