El Calafate to Bariloche via El Chalten

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From Puerto Natales caught an early coach through the Patagonian steppe across back into Argentina, passing flamingo-dotted lakes, flocks of flightless rheas and llama-like guanacos en route. Stayed at the friendly Hostal Amancay in El Calafate, and had relaxed evening walk around Laguna Nimez nature reserve with flamingoes, geese and kestrels (?). Felt a minor earthquake for the first time (originally identified as due to very heavy bus passing until explained by US fellow traveller). The following day joined tour to the amazing Perito Moreno glacier, a surreal sight of 70m high wall of ice stretching across lake. Strapped on crampons for a hike up onto the glacier, drinking icy pure water and staring into deep crevasses, followed by a celebratory whisky (with ice).

Next stop El Chalten, a tiny mountain town founded less than 30 years ago. A long uphill trek from the ranger station, followed by a final steep climb to a summit was rewarded by views of the Fitz Roy range with its fantastical rock spires, and a very scenic picnic.

Left the following day for a very long (30 hour) bus ride, eventually dropping me at Bariloche in the Argentine lake district with its germanic feel and copious chocolate shops (dozens of them !). A tour on the famous Ruta de Los Siete Lagos had several good views although unfortunately accompanying Spanish commentary still a slight mystery - made up for it by eating the very fine local chocolate and ice cream. A short vertiginous hike along a mountain ridge from Cathedral ski-area was followed by a hot and sunny forested walk in the Nahuel Huapi national park up to the lakeside Refugio Frey.

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Photos

Perito Moreno glacier
c 70m high, and about the size of Buenos Aires

Chocolate shop !
One of many...