We wake up to to find out that the old man’s father has died. It’s not unexpected, but still sad news. Outside it’s still raining. It’s as if the heavens have decided to join the old man in his tears. We opt for a quiet day with a walk along the coast. We walk 8 miles in total, stopping first at the museum to learn about the history of the island and its Moais then on to Ana Kakenga; a cave in a lava tube with two ‘windows’ overlooking the ocean. The entrance is tiny. I may be descended from a long line of miners, but I don’t do enclosed spaces so the old man goes in while I stay on the surface. On the way back, it finally stops raining and we catch our first ... read more

Today we’re flying 2350 miles west to Easter Island; a tiny dot in the South Pacific. I have a phobia of remote locations, so I’m not sure why I agreed to fly to the most remote airport in the world. It’s an early start, compounded by the fact that the shuttle bus only runs hourly. We check in for our flight. Easter Island belongs to Chile, so we proceed to the domestic departure gate but are sent away and told to go to the 2nd floor. The old man tells me I’ve misunderstood and we head to the other end of the hall to the international departure gate. Again, we’re sent to the 2nd floor. Again, the old man tells me I’ve misunderstood. After some dispute, we descend to the 2nd floor, past a range of ... read more

I wanted to love quirky little hotel Winebox but to be honest, shipping containers aren’t very soundproof so we had a restless night of traffic, barking dogs and plumbing noises, compounded by the continued fallout from the Fritz & Franz pigeon poo lunch. However, they redeem themselves at breakfast with fruit salad, smashed avocado, poached egg and fresh orange juice. I’d almost forgotten what fruit juice tasted like! We spend the morning in Valparaiso with no specific plan (we consulted 3 maps and they were all completely different) other than a combination of murals and funicular railways. We walk down our hill (Cerro Florida) then take the Ascensor Espiritu Santo up the next hill (Cerro Bellavista) to the Museo a Cielo Abierto, an area my guidebook says is adorned with colourful murals. Unfortunately, the museum and ... read more

La Calma de Rita is a strange place, balanced precariously between rustic charm and just plain dirty. Our Romany caravan in quaint and the bed was really comfortable but I could do without the mouldy shower curtain. After breakfast, a similarly strange mix of tasty freshly baked bread and nothing else I’d care to eat, we head for Pirque. Our plan to tour several wineries in our fantasy hire car has been pared down to just one, but it’s the biggie; Concha y Toro, the 5th biggest wine producer in the world. We book the basic tour which includes a glimpse of the founder Don Melchor’s villa and gardens. Then on to a small vineyard, each row containing a different type of grapes. We’re invited to wander round, trying the different varieties. I’m surprised how different ... read more

This morning we plan to drive to Jesús María, an hour north of Córdoba. It’s a risk; since the Fritz y Franz pigeon poo lunch, things have been distinctly loose in the bottom department. But we set off (camera in one pocket, Imodium in the other). We reach Jesús María without incident and stop briefly in the main plaza. It has a train line running through the middle and a strange collection of naked orange statues with enormous feet. On to the Museo Jesuitico in a 17th century Jesuit estancia by the river. It’s a beautiful old building full of interesting religious artefacts. It’s fallen somewhat into disrepair which makes me wonder why they don’t charge an entrance fee. In the afternoon, one last wander round Córdoba. We have dinner at el Club de la Milanesa ... read more