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Published: February 17th 2019
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We had a good night’s sleep, waking briefly at midnight for the firework display. Easter Island is very expensive because almost everything (apart from fish and chicken) is imported from thousands of miles away. But they certainly didn’t skimp on the fireworks.
At 6.45 the resident cockerels decide it’s dawn. Today that’s fine because we haven’t adjusted to the time zone. Tomorrow, however I will probably hatch plans to murder cockerels.
We plan to hire the hostel car to follow the ‘north east circuit’. This takes the island’s only paved road past various archaeological sites, finishing at a beach. The weather forecast is hideous but tomorrow a cruise ship is due at this tiny island with minimal infrastructure, so we are torn between a storm and hordes of entitled pensioners. We opt for the storm and set off in our little Jeep, bouncing along the road in search of the island’s main attractions.
First, the ancient settlement of Akahanga where we get caught in a torrential downpour. Next, Tongariki; a spectacular row of 15 Moai on a clifftop. Then on to the quarry at Raraku where the stone for the Moai was carved. The site is littered with
hundreds of rejected, half carved Moai – it’s quite a sight.
The road ends at the beach of Anakena, although it’s not exactly beach weather - the wind is fierce and it has rained intermittently all day. But we decide to go for a swim, separately, as we needed to bring our passports. The old man goes first. It starts to rain and he gets out. I am already in my costume and determined to swim in the South Pacific. Im going in. He takes the bags and we agree to meet at the car. I make it into the ocean just before the heavens open. I head to the car but there is no sign of the old man. I stand in my costume for some time getting very wet and cold before finally locating him (and my clothes) - I am not happy. We head for the changing rooms but they cost $1. I’m not prepared to pay $1 to put on my pants so we drive back to town in our swimwear.
Once showered and dressed, we set off in search of food. This is not as simple as it seems. Most restaurants are closed
and we enter several restaurants which appear to be open, only to be told they’re closed. Next we try some supermarkets; one is closed the other is open but doesn’t have much food – the shelves are fairly empty unless you include the cats.
In the evening we try again, it’s been 11 hours since breakfast so I’m hungry and grumpy. We find a restaurant at the 3rd attempt - Te Moana. It’s expensive; a fish and chip platter costs £30, but it’s very good. We return via a shop for beer and biscuits. Without beer, I’m not sure I have the tolerance threshold for two more days on this island.
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