The train to Kolkata was two hours late, so we had to cool our heels at the station longer than originally thought. I'm surprised anyone gets on the right train here. Bishal said it is hard enough for him to find out when the train is due and what platform it will be on, let alone a foreigner. There is no arrivals/departure board so you have to rely on announcements for updates, if you can hear or understand them. When a train arrives, the vendors appear, carrying their produce on trays balanced on their heads, a cane stand for the tray under their arm. I found it rather entertaining, as they weighed out grapes, placed them on a square of newspaper, and passed them through the train window. Others had peeled cucumber, plastic sandals, jewellery and ... read more

We endured another bone breaking trip down that awful road back to the bus station this morning. Bishon warned us to keep a sharp eye on our belongings as we are now in one of the highest crime rate areas in India. I'm a little mistrusting of hotel staff, particularly in the standard of accommodation we've been staying in, so always put valuables, such as my iPad, in my suitcase and lock it before going anywhere. I never leave anything of value within sight. With this in mind, we all drop our luggage in a pile and stand around it, which we've done at every bus or train station we've passed through. All small backpacks are worn on the front where we can keep an eye on them as well. We have a 2.5 hour trip ... read more

We were all up early and in the foyer of the hotel at 5.00am, ready for the train trip to Pushkar. The railway station, when we got there, was more like a refugee centre, crowded even at this early hour. People seem to set up camp - out come the floor mats and everyone lies down to sleep while they wait for their train. Food stalls were busy and there was a pack of dogs roaming the platform. I kept well out of their way. We found our carriage, definately 3rd class, and looked for our seats. They were padded bench seats with upright backs with a small padded area for back comfort. Each one sat three, but two would have been more comfortable. Luggage was put overhead, we all squashed in, pushed up the metal ... read more

The 22 day long tour I'm about to start is with Intrepid Travel, called 'North India Unplugged'. It's one of their basic no frills trips. We sleep, eat and travel like a local. View Intrepid's website for my itinerary, if you're interested. On Sunday morning everyone is packed up, suitcases downstairs, and gathered in the lobby by 8.30am. Luggage was stored until we left for the train station later in the afternoon. We accompanied Bishal, our Indian tour guide, to the metro station. First stop was Jama Masjid, the mosque I was turned away from the previous day due to prayers starting. We left the metro at Chawri Bazar Station, one stop before Chandni Chowk, so approached the mosque from a different gate. Entrance was free unless you wanted to take your camera in. For that ... read more

It's the beginning of another week and it promises to be a big one. Petra left this morning so I've had another sad farewell. It's been lovely having her company for the past five weeks. But, eventually we all have to pack up and return home, and her time has come. But, hopefully I'll see her again really soon...XX So now I continue my travels alone for the next three months. A daunting but liberating thought.... Left to my own devices, it's time to take stock, repack, check the budget and prepare myself for a flight to New Delhi later in the week. During the afternoon, I have decided to visit Wat Arun and Chinatown. Both places are best accessed from the river, so I walk the 500 metres to Thewet Pier, the closest to the ... read more