Advertisement
Published: April 21st 2013
My flight from Bangkok to Delhi left on time and landed on schedule at Delhi airport around midday, Indian time. I have changed time zones and am now four and a half hours behind Australia. Getting through the airport was a breeze. I expected crowds and queues but, in actual fact, the immigration area was completely empty when I approached. So, it took me two minutes to pass through there, grab my bag, change the rest of my Thai baht into Indian rupees, pass through customs and out into the arrivals hall.
I was met by a man from Intrepid Tours who had a car waiting to take me to Hotel Perfect where I was staying, in the Karol Bagh area. Well, the hotel is okay, but certainly not perfect! The air conditioner struggles and isn't as cool as I'd like. A hot shower before bed is out of the question because there is only hot water between 5-11am. I can hear every car horn and shout from the street below. Getting breakfast on Friday morning, when I walked into the dining area to find the lights out and no sign of food at 7.30am, was more effort than it
was worth. But, I'm only here for three nights, so I'll cope.
While settling into my room on Thursday, I found that the lock was missing off my suitcase, but nothing was missing, thank goodness. I decided to go for a walk and check out the neighbourhood. Certainly not an upmarket area judging by the ramshackle buildings and faded grubby signage. The streets are filthy, drivers sit on their horns non-stop, bicycle rickshaws vie for space with cars, trucks, overloaded old wagons and scooters, creating chaos on the streets. But, what I found to be the most intimidating was the fact that there were no women around, just crowds of men. I wandered around and got hopelessly lost again. Thank goodness I had pinpointed a big sign at the end of the hotel street. When I found it again, I knew which way to turn. I bought myself some bottled water and retreated to my room.
Well, that's all very well, but I can't hide inside for the next two days, until I join my Intrepid tour on Saturday evening. I looked at some day trips but nothing took my fancy and I had left it a bit
Delhi Street Scene - Karol Bagh
This woman bought herself food and sat down on the footpath to eat.late anyway. I went out again later, this time looking for the metro station, which was just around the corner, according to reception staff. And that's exactly where I found it. I enquired about getting a tourist pass for Friday, as I figure the metro will open up Delhi for me. There were lots of women on the streets now, only a few hours later. So, feeling more comfortable I browsed the market stands and shops for an hour or so, before going back to the hotel and ordering dinner from the room service menu. I was in for the night.
So, Friday morning and I'm at the metro again, where I buy myself a one day pass for 150 rupees ($2.70), 50 rupees of which is refundable when I hand my card back in. Apparently it's a punishable offence to retain metro tokens or cards, going by the posters in the stations. Don't they have anything bigger to worry about?
I also picked up a pocket sized metro map, and Ravij Chowk station, the closest to Connaught Place will be my first stop. The trains are modern, clean and fast, and even have carriages reserved just for
women. I needed to visit an ATM but am reluctant to use free standing ones on the street, preferring one in a bank wall, if I can find it. Connaught Place, being the central business hub of New Delhi, seems just the place to find a bank. But, the streets were deserted and everything closed at 8.30am.
Apparently its a public holiday - Ram Navami Day. All across India, the day of Ram Navami is celebrated as the birthday of the Lord Ram, one of the most familiar and loved deities in the Hindu pantheon. I walked around but couldn't find a bank, so headed back to the metro. Next stop is Chandni Chowk, the heart of Old Delhi and the area where a huge world renown market is held.
Well, it was business as usual here, and I found a bank so withdrew rupees without any problems. The streets were teeming with vehicles and pedestrians. I ducked between them all, camera at the ready, soaking up the atmosphere and snapping photos. I'm sure I was cursed by an old beggar woman who sat in the street. She glared at me when I passed, shouting and flicking water
Delhi Street Scene
This woman was picking up recyclables from the street. She went through the bin after I took this. at me from a basin in her lap. I ended up outside the Red Fort, at the top end of the street. I didn't go in as I thought we were visiting there during the tour. But I have since read my notes and it's an optional extra, so I will return and visit tomorrow (Saturday).
Whilst I was standing there, contemplating my next move, I was approached by a rickshaw driver. He attracted others, and they swarmed around me, arguing with each other and all trying to sell me rides to tourist spots at over inflated prices. These men didn't worry me, they are all just trying to make a living, and if they can rip off a tourist whilst doing it, all the better. I kept my cool, shook my head and said no, no, no, and walked away.
Most of them gave up and looked for other prey, except for one man. He ran and got his bicycle rickshaw and followed me. Persistence paid off, and we come to an agreement. I would allow him to show me around as long as he took me to no shops. Drivers get commission for taking tourists to
certain shops, tailors or jewellery outlets and often, when you're in their vehicle, you have no choice in the matter. You can choose weather you buy or not, that's entirely up to you. This fellow ensured me he wouldn't, I was dumb enough to believe him, and we headed off.
From the Red Fort, the arrow-straight Chandni Chowk stretches west, with small alleyways and streets spreading out into the tangle of the walled metropolis. My man's name was Deepak, and he spoke reasonably good English. He turned his rickshaw down a narrow alleyway, which was barely wide enough for pedestrains, and announced he was taking me to the Wedding and Sari Markets. All I could do was smile and hang on, while he manoeuvred his rickshaw around corners and over doorways. We moved at a snail's pace but that suited me just fine. The sari shops here are just beautiful, the fabric colours and the richness of the sequins and beading filling shelf after shelf. I could linger for hours and look at them all.
It all seems quite incomprehensible, but there is a definite method to the madness here. Each area, called a katra, has been taken
Connaught Place
Deserted at 8.30 am except for kids kicking a ball around. over by tradesmen or artisans in the same businesses, be it the silver street, the bangle sellers’ palace, or mutton alley. Deepak pointed out the silver street, which I'd like to have a closer look at.
Next stop was the spice market. This market fills an entire run-down haveli, each room overflowing with gunnysacks of freshly crushed spices. Workers covered their faces with handkerchiefs to protect themselves from the overpowering smells. It's not an unpleasant smell, being spices, but it's so strong it catches in the back of your throat. Deepak accompanied me through here, pointing out things of interest. He opened a door in an old derelict building, which I discovered was a storage area for spices, and gestured for me to follow him. We went up four floors, via concrete stairs which had no railings, and onto the roof. From here there was a great view over the streets and neighbouring rooftops. He waited patiently whilst I took photos and then we returned to ground level.
In all he pedalled me around for three hours, taking me to the Mahatma Ghandi Museum, a muslim mosk, Jama Masjid, which was closing for prayer just as I got
to the top of the steps, so I was turned away. But I'll be back here with the tour group on Sunday. He did stop off at two shops along the way, finally dropping me at the New Delhi metro station. I bought myself two silk scarves in gorgeous rich colours in one of the shops. A weak moment, but the budget can handle the occasional one, and I need to spoil myself from time to time.
It's a tough way for Deepak to make a living, pedalling tourists around in his outdated rickshaw, but he assured me he was strong. He was pleasant company and refused to name a price when it came to renegotiating after he dropped me off, as I had spent more time with him than originally planned. I gave him 300 rupees (about $5.50) and he seemed happy enough. We shook hands and went our separate ways.
I got on the next train and decided to ride it to the second last stop on that line - Adarsh Nagar. I had read that the largest fruit and vege market in Asia was held there, and I thought it might be worth a visit.
Delhi Street Scene - Chandni Chowk
Standing in front of the Red Fort looking back across the street. I got no further than the metro station. Looking out over the rooftops at the slum area Adarsh Nagar was, I decided there was no way I was venturing down there, as I may never be seen again. I had to leave the station as I needed to be on the opposite platform to catch a return train and entering from another set of steps was the only way I could do it. So, I ventured down, took a few quick photos, re-entered the station from the other side and jumped on the next train. I saw two laden camels on the road and would have loved to get a photo but they were gone by the time I got down to the street. Adarsh Nagar didn't have a good feel to it and I was relieved to go, particularly after being shouted at by a young man on the station platform for taking photos of the slums. Thankfully he didn’t approach me. I returned to the hotel after stocking up on bottled water and, once again, ordered dinner from the room service menu. Another day in India draws to a close.
Friday is the last day I have
Delhi Street Scene - Chandni Chowk
These big pots are used for cooking in, usually done by men, in the street. to venture out on my own before I join a tour group, so I create a 'plan of attack' to get the most from my day. After a little bit of internet browsing over breakfast, I have discovered I can get close to both India Gate and the Lotus Temple on the metro. So, it looks like more train rides today.
So, I purchase another day pass on the metro, first getting my 50 rupee refund on yesterday's used one. India Gate is only five stops, and one connection away, at Central Secretariat station. I'm there in no time, and pay 50 rupees ($1) for a tuk tuk to get me to the monument itself.
India Gate is 42 metre high archway similar to the 'Arc-de-Triomphe' in Paris, and stands in the middle of a crossroad. It commemorates the 70,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British Army during the World War I. The memorial bears the names of more than 13,500 British and Indian soldiers killed in the Northwestern Frontier in the Afghan war of 1919. I took some photos and decided to walk back to the metro station as it's only a kilometre
Gurudwana Sisganj Sahib
This woman is washing her hands in the basins out front before entering the temple, as dictated by tradition. It is a holy and pilgrimage place of the Sikh community. away.
Next stop is Kalkaji Station, eight metro stops, to visit the Lotus Temple. This extraordinary temple is shaped like the sacred lotus flower and has 27 immaculate white-marble petals. The Bahai temples philosophy revolves around universal peace, and the elimination of prejudice. People of all faiths are welcome to pray or meditate silently here, according to their own religion. The interior is completely unadorned, with rows of timber chairs for people to sit in. Shoes have to be removed, of course, and silence is mandatory. Gentle recorded sound like like birds chirping or bells echoed through the air. Many people sat quietly, then moved on when they were ready.
There was another interesting building which I spotted from the metro, not far from the Lotus Temple. This was the Iskcon Temple, meaning The International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON) and is a spiritual institution for devotees of Krishna. This rather large and relatively new complex is more than just a temple, it houses learning centres, a museum and small shops selling religious material. It was very busy and, it appears, I just happened to turn up on an important day.
The temple was packed with devotees
as a ceremony was underway. I removed my shoes and joined the throng of people filing through. There was live music being played with lots of drums/traditional instruments, and people were chanting. In the front of the temple were three dais, each with its own small ceremony being played out by Krishna monks. I didn't understand the significance of the day, but it was an interesting experience just the same.
I walked back to the metro station and headed back into the centre of Old Delhi. Next stop is the Red Fort, situated at the top of Chandni Chowk, the area I visited yesterday. The red sandstone walls of the massive Red Fort (Lal Qila) rise 33-m above the clamour of Old Delhi as a reminder of the magnificent power and pomp of the Mughal emperors. The walls, built in 1638, were designed to keep out invaders, now they mainly keep out the noise and confusion of the city.
The main gate, Lahore Gate, is one of the emotional and symbolic focal points of the modern Indian nation and attracts a major crowd on each Independence Day. The vaulted arcade of Chatta Chowk, a bazaar selling tourist trinkets,
leads into the huge fort compound. It was busy with tourists, and I wandered around taking photos. It was horribly hot so I didn't stay long. I wanted to return to the spice markets for more photos.
When I was leaving the fort, who should spot me but Deepak, my rickshaw driver from yesterday. He greeted me like a long lost buddy, and patted the seat of his rickshaw. I got the message and decided that he could take me to the spice markets again. At least in a rickshaw, I was sitting in the shade. The traffic was worse than yesterday and had ground to a halt along Chandni Chowk. Tempers flared between drivers as vehicles fought for right of way. In the middle of it all was an old wagon, loaded down with produce, being pulled by two oxen. Absolute pandemonium! I decided it would be quicker to walk, so I tapped Deepak on the shoulder, pushed 50 rupees into his hand, and left him to it.
Even walking was hard going, so I detoured into one of the side alleys, which was just as bad! I did enjoy browsing the shop stands though. The sheer
volume and selection of produce here is incredible. Entire shops dedicated to beautiful embroidered and sequinned braids. Another one selling wedding saris in beautiful colours. I found a shop selling nothing but gorgeously decorated envelopes, obviously for wedding invitations. They were a dollar or two for a set of ten. I could spend a fortune here...
I never did make it back to the spice markets. By now it was 4.00pm and I decided to return to the hotel as the Intrepid Tours meeting was at 6.00. I had to move rooms today, as from tonight I'm officially travelling with Intrepid and have to move into a twin room which I'm sharing with another traveller on my trip. At the meeting I met the people I'll be travelling with for the next three weeks, including my new room mate, Kate. A bit of a mixed bag, my fellow travellers. An Aussie couple from Perth, a 70 year old man with his sister in law, also Aussies. The rest are a mix of younger, single people travelling alone. After the formalities are over, we had our first meal together at a local restaurant. Then it's back to the hotel for
Delhi Street Scene
Scaffolding, all tied together with rope. sleep. Tomorrow the trip officially begins.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.077s; Tpl: 0.017s; cc: 9; qc: 23; dbt: 0.0455s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Petra
non-member comment
Well Done!
... on getting out and about, it must have been quite daunting. Sounds like you enjoyed your few days in Delhi. Tell us more about your fellow travellers and room mate! x