Phew ! We're actually in Agra now, with a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal from our hotel window. But first, I wanted to tell you a bit more about Bodh Gaya. If New Delhi is the London of North India, then I suppose Varanasi could be construed to be similar to the Holy City of Liverpool, then Bodh Gaya is the Clitheroe. There the similarity ends (if it ever started). Not that I am suggesting that Clitheroe be a central site for holy pilgrims from all over the world, I'm talking size comparisons really. The main site in Bodh Gaya is the Mahabodhi Temple which is built on the site that Buddha sat under the Bodhi tree when he achieved enlightenment. The tree (or at least a tree which is allegedly related to the original) ... read more

Well, just stopped off in Varanasi on our way from Bodh Gaya to Agra. Another 5 hour drive this morning and we're now waiting in the Hotel Radisson before we board the overnight sleeper to Agra at 17:45 which should be . . . . interesting. Also, the laptop is bust ( 14 day old HP Netbook ! ), so we will have to resort to hotel Internet and cyber-shacks for the time being. No piccies with this entry as the camera is in the car (and I'm not sure where the car is right now !). Bodh Gaya was mind-blowing, for a number of reasons. But, before we get to that, I thought I should tell you a little about what we have learned about driving in India while it's still fresh in my mind. ... read more

Today we visited Sarnath. This is a deer park just north of Varanasi and is where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after receiving enlightenment. There's a beautiful Buddhist temple here, but the most dramatic sight here has to be Dharmakh stupa (a "stupa" is a mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics) which marks the very spot from where He gave the sermon. For Buddhists, this is one of the most important Buddhist sites and people come on pilgrimages from all over the world. Practicing Buddhists will walk round the stupa clockwise 108 times (the number 108 comes up a few times in Buddhism, one of them being the number of defilements, or torments, Buddha had to overcome to attain enlightment). Not being fully fledged Buddhists, we only walked round 8 times, so we've still got another ... read more

Blimey - Varansi, holy city of Shiva, oldest city in India, banks of the Ganges, where all drivers have a death wish. Starting to get a taste of the real India now - the journey from the airport was an experience in itself, you have to have the blessings of the Gods to arrive in one piece. Lots of poverty. Feel a bit wierd sitting in our Radisson suite somewhat insulated from it all. Big fat bloaty English blobs dripping in opulence. Shall we have the lard or the dripping for dinner dear ? ( Actually, we're disguised as vegetarians in India - but you take my point!) Arrived mid-afternoon (flight delayed again, not due to screaming boys this time, but Air Force practicing for Republic celebrations on the 26th Jan) then spent the rest of ... read more

Well . . . . that was an interesting day ! Tour of New and Old Delhi, by car, foot and rickshaw. Driving is mad - press pedal (and horn) and go. Lots of squalor in places, lots of money in others. How to explain it all in words - perhaps some poetry : -o- Old Delhi - bit smelly. New Delhi - quite posh. Temples, mosques and Indian teas. Egg on toast and monkeys. -o- Yeah, that's about right. Tomorrow is a chill day - phew !... read more