Page 4 of Jim Coates Travel Blog Posts


North America » United States » Virginia » Arlington July 7th 2020

It took me half a days' ride to get home again. The Mid Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route is 1,058 miles long. It was designed perfectly for access by residents of the Washington Metro Area. From Arlington to the Start at Damascus VA is some 355 mi and 5 1/2 hours. From the Finish in Lawrenceville PA back to Arlington VA is about 268 mi and 4 1/2 hours. If one were to just drive via interstate from Damascus to Lawrenceville, it would take about 9 hours and cover 555 miles. By riding the mountains and forests, it takes 9 days, and over 1,050 miles. Campsites are available. Hotels are plentiful (I always stayed at hotels) and very Covid-19 aware. Shields and cleaning emphasized everywhere. Food and gas are easy to find -- but don't pass them ... read more
Map of the full MABDR
BMW R12GSA 2012 Hexhead Oil Cooled 75,000 mi
BMW R12GSA 2012 Hexhead Oil Cooled 75,000 mi


Pennsylvania boasts its own Grand Canyon along Pine Creek. You can get the best view from Colton Point State Park. The morning ride north from Cedar Run is the last long forest run. I was up early. The wood was quiet and cool. I got completely lost on this section last year. This time I was right on target, and nailed the park first time. Being alone at the view point made it that much better. The viewpoint for the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon on Pine Creek is also a memorial for the Community Conservation Corps. Workers from the Corps helped build the roads and sites for Colton Point park. The posters memorialize the many other contributions to tourist and environmental infrastructure built by the Corps during the Depression. Made me wonder if we will have to ... read more
Memorial to the CCC
Colton Point State Park
Visitor Viewing Station at Colton Point SP


The woods are so pristine. No naked swathes of harvested trees, the gravel roads so good, no traffic, no people. What is the secret to these mid Pennsylvania forests ? I wondered as I wandered North. What goes on to make these roads so much better than those in Virginia, or West Virginia? I came across the secret soon enough -- the pipelines. For the first time the clusters of pipes and valves began to show, neat and painted green, alongside the side of the road. Of course, the Marcellus Shale. How could I forget ! Rockefeller got his start selling oil from Pennsylvania oilfields. Now gas is king in the Allegheny region (PA and WV), which accounts for almost 40% of US gas production. Yes, prisons are also a second, silent, revenue source for these ... read more
Deep in rural Pennsylvania
Prison, south of Jersey Short
Gas from the Marcellus Shale


The road out of Mount Holly Springs runs through open farmland. The route zigs and zags as it climbs over the ridges, gradually carrying me NE towards New York. One crosses Blue Mountain ridge, then Tuscarora Ridge, before descending into a valley from another era. The Amish and Mennonite farms provide an island of order, peace and old world tranquility. Horse drawn carts and farm implements are used as naturally as if we were still living in 1850. Farmers and their families dressed in nineteenth century garb wave as one drives by. Flowers line the roads and fields. There is so much pride in the land and what it produces, it fills one with hope. State forests cover the ridges. The Amish country lead up to Tuscarora State Forest. Rothrock was next, named after the "Father ... read more
BDR rider on KLR 650
The deli at McVeytown PA.
Plaque Honoring Dr Joseph Rothrock 1839 - 1932


I really like Harpers Ferry. Geographically, scenically, geologically, infrastructurally, it has it all. The two defining rivers of the region come together, sweep through the mountains and flow East in a wide swathe of swirls and ripples. The Shenandoah comes in over a unique series of transverse rock formations, causing a long sequence of parallel cascades. The old town clings to the steep banks on the South side of the Potomac. To the North a black rail tunnel punches a hole in the rocky crag which defines the Gap. A broad road bridge crosses to the East. A 200 year old canal crawls up the northern side of the Potomoc. If you stand on the railroad bridge connecting Harpers Ferry to Maryland, you can see it all. And then the forests of West Virginia were over, ... read more
The Appalachian Trail crosses the Potomac
The Railway also crosses the Potomac
The Potomac above Harpers Ferry


Mount Olivet is a common name for Methodist churches. I followed Mount Olive road for maybe 10 miles today, past the church building and cemetary arriving eventually at the door of the Horn Camp school house, which I had visited last year. Once in you are treated to a vision of the "good" old days of the one room for 8 grades schoolhouse, active between the 1880's and 1952, now filled with collections of farm tools and memorabilia. The neighbors are proud of their museum, and one can visit with the curator for as long as one wishes. Crossing the C & O Canal was like meeting an old friend. With a lock and a towpath and a Lock Keeper's House, it was like being in Carderock MD once again. There were even a couple of ... read more
Asbury UMC on Mt Olive Rd
Horn Camp Schoolhouse
Slow

North America July 1st 2020

The early morning ride back to Williamsville through the Gorge was wonderful. Back on the trail, the BDR was much like the previous two days. High winding forest road following the contours of Shenandoah Mountain at about 2,500 feet. The ridge above crests at around 3,000 feet. The forest was close and dense, and hadn't been touched in years. Every now and then there was a good view up the Cowpasture Valley, and once a glimpse of an indigo bunting. I met deer families all along the way, fawns and mothers grazing alongside the road barely bothered to respond to my presence. This large expanse of untouched forest does hide a few secrets. High on the ridge above Sugar Grove the NSA has a listening facility of some kind. The Navy Information Command used to have ... read more
Contour Road Plunges back into the Forest
Facing a Small Stream
Colonial Town of Upper Tract

North America » United States » Virginia » Staunton June 30th 2020

The run up through Jefferson National Forest to Covington is recognized as one of the more challenging sections of the route. It is a day of continuous gravel, deep in the national forest, tracking the ridges towards the NE. Very tough if wet. The route planners have it down as one day's run. I wanted to complete it in half a day, and then do half of the following day's run, up to Williamsville VA. Getting there would put me in Highland County, and allow me to sleep in comfort and for free in our cabin just south of Monterey. So, it had to be done. The first of the classic sections is Tub Run Road, high in the mountains West of Blacksburg. Maybe 15 miles long, it is a never ending set of badly maintained ... read more
The village of Maggie in Craig County VA
The start to the Tub Run road in Jefferson National Forest
Lunch stop in the shade

North America » United States » Virginia » Pembroke June 29th 2020

The day dawned clear in Abingdon, but the mountains to the East looked dark and stormy. I wanted to get ahead of the weather so I was moving early. The two bikers I met last night, with their smooth tires and light suits, still hadn't stirred. Damascus was not far, a small and very cute town, right up against Mount Rogers. The mountain remained shrouded in fog the whole time I was there. I eventually found the very small waterfall which serves as the symbolic start to the Route. I wasn't very impressed and forgot to take a photo. The road through Stone and Iron Mountains was pretty amazing though, throwing one immediately onto narrow forest ledges and a road cut through raw rock. The dampness and mud added to the challenge. The road soon dropped ... read more
Barn before Adwolf VA
Barn interior
Bridge by barn

North America » United States » Virginia » Abingdon June 28th 2020

There are many routes from Arlington to Damascus VA, the starting point of the Mid Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route (MABDR). Most of them require going South on I 81, a truck filled artery linking industrial towns in the gritty underbelly of the Mid Atlantic states. This freeway strikes fear into the hearts of ordinary four wheeled motorists -- and panic into two wheelers like myself. So Beth and I chose the most round about option, and headed for the town of Monterey in Highland County, Virginia, where we own a cabin. We spent Saturday night (June 27) there enjoying the quiet cool evening. Sunday I started South, following VA Route 92 to White Sulphur Springs and the famous Greenbrier Resort. From there the route followed the Greenbrier river til it emptied into the New River at ... read more
The Bluestone Dam on the New River WV
Overlooking the Dam
The Bluestone Lake behind the Dam




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