Ollanataytambo is a massive stone fortress thought to be the only remaining example of pre-Columbian urban planning. The terraces were built on the mountainside to make farming possible. The irrigation systems are an architectural accomplishment that are still in use today. The construction of the temple it at the highest point of the town and the living spaces are at the base. The Incas also had very large and effective storage systems for their food. When the Spaniards arrived they had enough food for 7 years. The hiking stick came in very handy today indeed. The vista from the top is a just reward for the huffing and puffing (remember we are at about 9,000 feet). Moving slowly is a major key to getting to the top successfully. In the town below the locals are selling ... read more

This morning we crossed the equator to the Northern Hemisphere. We arrived at Genovesa Island and anchored in Darwin Bay, a huge submerged caldera of a dormant volcano. Genovesa is the island of the birds, one million of them, red-footed boobies, frigate birds, swallow tailed gulls, storm petrels, Nazca boobies and short eared owls. We sighted all species, an overwhelming seabird experience. This is mating season for the boobies and the frigates. The male frigates have a giant pouch that inflates upon their chest. They will sit waiting with the pouch inflated, fasting, for up to 10 days to attract a female. We observed these large birds, with a wing span of about 8 feet in the midst of their courting ceremony. In some cases a group of 5 or 6 juvenile males gather together as ... read more

Vacation? Yes. Rest and relax? Not until today. I forego the first expedition of the day to see the land iguanas, it entails more boulder hopping and I opt for a massage instead, thank you Hilda. I return to the cabin just in time to head off for the 10:40 deep-water drift snorkel excursion; oh glory of glories, what a wonderful hour and a half. A sheer wall along Santa Cruz Island is bejeweled with corals, soft and hard and infinite varieties of vibrant multi-colored fish. The water is warm and the dive skin is more than enough protection from the sun and prevents chill in the water. This is a great ship, with lots of stairs. I am estimating I am clocking about 30 flights a day. Day two I really couldn’t figure out why ... read more

The pre-breakfast outing was a zodiac ride with a wet landing to Floreana Island and a hike to Punta Cormorant. The beach where we arrive consisted of sand which contained olivine, a semi-precious stone, broken into very small granules. We hiked past a brackish lagoon where we could see in the distance (thanks for the binoculars MOM) the Galapagos Flamingos (we only counted 18) and I believe this is the only island that we expect to see these beautiful birds. Once we arrived at Punta Cormorant beach we sighted burrows that had been dug by the sea turtles and also saw tracks on the beach as evidence of a female who had laid her eggs the previous night. Sally Lightfoot crabs were all along the rocks and I learned that the crabs’ growth depends on the ... read more

“Welcome aboard the National Geographic Endeavour”, was the theme of the day. We left Guayaquil behind and a short 1 hour 15 minute flight (700 miles) we landed on San Cristobal Island in the small port town of Baquerizo Moreno, a town of more than 8,000. This is where we boarded a Zodiac boat “panga” to be shuttled to the ship. After the mandatory safety drill we had a buffet lunch and were introduced to the expedition leader PaulaTagle. We received a great orientation regarding the volcanic islands that comprise the Galapagos Archipelago. Many of the animals which thrive is in this environment are endemic which simply means they are found nowhere else on earth. This includes many varieties of finches, mockingbirds, giant tortoises, blue footed boobies, sally lightfoot crabs along with many others. After lunch ... read more