A Glimpse of Civilization

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Santa Cruz Island is the second largest island in the archipelago and the port town of Puerto Ayora is home to 18,000 Galapaguenos. It is bustling place that has several very interesting art galleries featuring among traditional art, hand woven water tight vessels ranging in size from a 1/3 cup to 1 gallon capacity, beautiful weavings made of vibrantly colored alpaca wool which from a distance appear to be oil paintings and whimsical sculptures. As in any other tourist town the typical “souvenirs” are found all along the main street, just about 1.5 miles long.

The main attraction of this island is the Giant Tortoises and the Charles Darwin Research Station which was our first stop of the day. We were lucky(?) enough to see two of these giant creatures mating, an act that can last up to 4 hours (how about that, guys?). We also observed the turtle nursery and had great lesson in the distinction of the different species found on the various islands.

Leaving the research station I took to the main street on the way to the post office to mail postcards back home. Arrival at the Post Office I noticed it was poorly organized and quickly determined if I waited here to purchase the stamps I would squander all my exploration time in a small, cramped, crowded, dimly lit office(?) jammed with packages that Fed Ex, DHL, and our post office would reject. Took to the street and found a camera store that sold stamps, “mission accomplished”.

I had signed up for the mountain biking adventure along with about 15 of the others on the expedition. I had great intention but the route was mostly uphill, constant uphill, did I mention it was uphill??? After about 10 minutes of UPHILL in the heat, with no shade or breeze, (did I remember we are at the equator?) I signalled the truck to pick me up. We met up with the bus riding group and made a brief stop to see how sugar cane is / was processed using a rudimentary press and the help of donkeys, the processing of coffee beans, and moonshine making, complete with tastings!!

After the demonstration and tastings we headed off to the “highlands” to visit a property located at the heart of the annual Giant Tortoise migratory route to search for these magnificent reptiles in their natural habitat. We had lunch on a beautiful outdoor patio where we enjoyed grilled chicken, rice, and the local beer.

Upon reaching our intended destination we made a short hike through the area along some paths that cross the annual migratory route. WOW, what an experience!!! We counted no less than 15 of the Giant Galapagos Tortoises!! One extremely large and many medium sized. It is not really known how long these creatures live as they have not been monitored scientifically for a sufficient period of time but it is confirmed they can live at least 150 years. The tortoises do notice us and if you approach too close they give a hiss, if you don't back off they withdraw into their giant shells and wait for you to pass. The rule of thumb as with all the animals here is to give them 6 feet of their own space.



We also had a chance to visit a lava tube that is the home to no animals nor insects, not even bats, as you might suspect.

Returning from the ”Highlands” I took to the street in search of “my traditional travel souvenir”, I found a Blue Footed Boobie treasure for my charm bracelet.

While heading back to the zodiac I encountered a fisherman with the catch of the day. The fish monger and his wife were cleaning the fish and an entire squad of brown pelicans, a sea lion and other opportunists were literally underfoot to get a chance at the tasty morsels, and all the while the wife was using a fly swatter to swish away the insects.

In the evening, after dinner, we were treated to a group of locals natives who performed their musical magic accompanied by some folk dancers.



I fall into bed, exhausted and happily enjoying life.

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