Page 2 of CLinardich Travel Blog Posts



It's before dawn on March 13th in Virginia Beach, Virginia, my hometown, when I place my car keys on my mom's kitchen counter, double check for probably forgotten items, and stuff all my luggage in the truck amidst the pouring rain. In a few days I will be in Japan, on the other side of this world. My travels are set to begin at the Greyhound bus station in downtown Norfolk, Virginia where I will catch the express bus to Washington, DC. My amazing mother drops me off, and not to be disappointed by the specialness of the dear populace of Norfolk, I turn the corner and stroll past a security guard admonishing a poor, old homeless woman, with a near-empty fifth of ... read more
Washington DC
Capitol Hill
Thomas Jefferson Library of Congress


I have now concluded my time in Roatan. Things that feel strange now that I am back home: using a phone/driving for the first time in three weeks, functional showers, eating a real salad, throwing out all my dead plants, being able to flush toilet paper, saying hello instead of hola, not waking up to the crystalline Caribbean, palm trees, and a tropical breeze. My last day on Roatan included the tagging and release of a new turtle and some tasty red snapper and wine with friends. Make that lots of wine. In total, I logged 39 dives on the island! I am so lucky to have been given this opportunity by my friend Noel, I hope to repay her someday with another adventure (I'm thinking somewhere with surf and/or hiking). She showed me the type ... read more
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On Wednesday we finally tagged our first turtle. Without the assistance of Darren, one of the dive masters at Fantasy Island Resort, it may not have been possible. They have been a lot harder to catch than expected. Unfortunately we do not have a boat by which we can do a longer term tracking (4-6hours) so we went back with the dive boat on Friday to see if the turtle was still hanging out in the area of release and thankfully, yes it was still there. On Thursday we came across a small turtle and attempted a capture. At one point the little shit swam circles around me, staying just out of arm’s reach, as if taunting me. If it is possible to look like a moron underwater, I can assure you that is what I ... read more
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There’s something about a night dive that is incredibly energizing, maybe it’s the adrenaline of looking over your shoulder into a black abyss of water where only earlier that day it was crystal clear, unknowing the known. Maybe it’s just finishing the dive without suffering any mishap such as getting lost without a flashlight, which is pretty feasible. Maybe it’s the knowledge that the predators come out to feed at night, they zoom in and out of your pathetic flashlight beam, if you’re lucky you may catch the attack. It could be the excitement of searching for animals that are only active at night such as the octopus, almost like a treasure hunt, who will be the first to sight it? Hanging on the mooring line during my safety stop after diving Missing Link at night ... read more
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Saturday was a chill day with two dives at French Cay Bank and CocoView Wall with the Prince Albert wreck to finish off. Unfortunately there was a cloud of stinging nettles at the end of the last dive that I swam through. The worst sting was on the lip, that really hurt. Otherwise, that night we watched the traditional dancing of the Garifuna, the first large settlement of people on Roatan. In 1797 the British left them here at what became the town of Punta Gorda after deporting them from San Vicente (an island in the Caribbean), where they had originally arrived there due to the African slave trade. Most of the dive boat captains and dive masters at Fantasy Island Resort live in Punta Gorda and are of Garifuna descent. On Sunday morning we dove ... read more
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Today’s first dive was at Half Moon Bay Wall (different from yesterday, but same name). The visibility was probably the worst I’ve seen yet since diving in Roatan. Other than a bunch of lionfish, there wasn’t nearly as much life on the reef wall. I did see my first jackknife drum though (a funky looking fish). The second dive was at Missing Link. Visibility was much better here and there were tons of schooling fish along the reef break. All I could see looking up to the surface were hundreds of fish, it was mesmerizingly beautiful and could have sat there and watched for hours. Four large grouper were lurking below, darting in and out of the schools, chowing down. Schools of curious white margate swam alongside, constantly within arm’s reach. At one point, a school ... read more
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Today the resort decided to take us diving at West End, a good 40 minute motor to the west of here. On the first dive at Carol’s Place we spotted an adult hawksbill with a bunch of remora buddies, a large goliath grouper, and a nice size snapper that always seemed to be swimming on my right shoulder throughout the dive. The second dive was at Half Moon Bay Wall, one of the best dives yet, with lots of large grouper, a couple of juvenile hawksbill turtles, and a moray eel. The waters off West End are designated marine park, which means you can’t fish there so I imagine that the reason why we were seeing larger fish during these dives was due to that fact. After some lunch we decided to explore the town of ... read more
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Today’s first dive was a wall dive named John’s Spot. We sighted a large grouper and a spotted eagle ray swimming along the reef wall around 110ft. The highlight at this site were the large, colorful filefish. The second dive was at Too Tall Too Small, known for large overhangs on the reef wall. We came upon a juvenile hawksbill turtle chillin on the reef wall so we decided to try and ambush it. I came around the front and saw what I thought was a good opportunity to chance a capture so I grabbed it with both hands and I had it for about five seconds before the thing realized what was going on, at which point it started flailing wildly and we both collided with the reef overhead. As debris rained down on my ... read more
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The first dive of the day was at Mary’s Place, the first site I dove here in Roatan (crack in the reef). I was much more confident this time around and was able to observe the reef wall rising up along either side of my shoulders, cavernous and captivating. The highlight was the spotted eagle ray that glided along beneath us along the reef wall for a bit. The second dive was at Anka’s Place, another wall dive. Apparently a large earthquake caused a portion on the reef to fall into the depths, so much of it was devoid of life. I’m sure it would be interesting to see the succession of corals as they begin to colonize the area again. Over the reef there were seahorses, lots of schooling fish, and a few medium-sized triggerfish ... read more
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This morning we dove French Cay Bank, a reef dive with some wreck debris at the beginning. The highlighted sightings were two giant, elegant angelfish and a large, lazy nurse shark hanging out on the sandy bottom in the shallow reef. Unfortunately I acquired a debilitating headache halfway through the dive and missed the second dive because of it. I recovered by the afternoon to do a wall dive called Inside-Outside. The visibility still wasn’t quite up to par, but we spotted a toothy barracuda hiding in the vertical reef wall and a large group of cuttlefish flitting along. We have noticed a strong presence of the demon-looking lionfish at nearly every site so far, which is rather disconcerting. Apparently they are good eating, but Noel and I have not figured out a way to kill ... read more
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