Japan. Onsen Explorer. Day 10

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Onsen Explorer. Day 10
Rankoshi. 100km. 1030m ascent.

We love the sun and are getting plenty of it. Japanese breakfast at our Ryokan at Shimomaki on Sea and, as usual, a very nutritious affair. As I waited for breakfast I sauntered down to the docks and watched the locals gutting fish from the overnight catch with some black birds, maybe ravens, waiting for their breakfast. The wind was very strong and against us for 40km but it did not detract from the spectacular coastline of ruggedness and the many fishing villages and ports, despite many being run down and bedraggled. The owner of the Ryokan had her son and husband out at sea fishing and she said they were doing ok. I saw five herons fishing in the shallow water along the way and one even allowed a photograph. You know the story you stop and get out your camera only for the rotters to fly off. Having said that I got a good shot of one in flight. Did I say there are tunnels in Japan? Well we had some today but much shorter than yesterday and still as disconcerting when traffic enters. Morning tea break was next to the 1000’th lighthouse we have seen this week and overseen by an angry looking Samurai on top of a pedestal. It was at this point that the wind changed in our favour and as you know a cyclist loves a tail wind. We were coasting along with hardly a pedal stroke at 30kph, absolute bliss. Lunch of egg noodles and then a chat to a Japanese chap who was cycling with his kitchen sink from Fukuoka on Kyushu all around Japan with zero budget and had been travelling 128 days so far selling photographs of sights he had seen.
At 8okm we had a coffee break at a Lawson and fruit bars and nuts from Ken before a 20km climb at about 5 degrees gradient. Some of the fitter ones flew up as though it was a time trial, others crawled up majestically. Part way up the view opened up and the vista stretched for miles and miles in every direction. The Ryokan with a large outdoor onsen was worth the effort and the evening meal was devoured as usual washed down with a few beers. What I did enjoy and was a first for me was wild bamboo heads dipped in sauce. However, I was disappointed with the toilet. The seat was not heated and no automatic rear washing. Whatever next? An early bed tonight at 9pm. Can you believe it 9PM and silence?

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