оҳиста суст, жай жай...Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan- Khorog to Yamg

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Day 12

Khorog to Yamg
Driving Distance- 207km

Sleeping altitude 2500m

Highest point altitude - 2770m at Bibi Fatima Hot Springs

I'm out of the room before 0630- the breakfast table is set- yoghurt, semolina, cakes, coffee, bread and apricot jam. Not sure where M and B are, maybe they aren't used to their tourists being early. We don't leave until nearly 0730 and then drive around for another 1/2 hour looking for gas, only to end up back at the gas station next to the hotel. Regardless, I feel pretty excited for today- we are about to begin travelling through the the Tajik Wakhan Valley. Today is also the first day back at school for the Tajik kids. There are kids everywhere in shiny new uniforms. All of the girls are kitted out with ENORMOUS white pompoms in their hair. Most carry bunches of flowers (for their teachers, M tells me). The Afghani kids are also walking to school, many km's, the girls in white headscarves. Our first stop for the day is in Kudavar Yusofbek- we have a flat, it must be fixed while we are somewhere with facilities to do this. Next stop? It's an exciting one...

We arrive at the Garm-e-Chashma Hot Springs- eek (damn my modest nature, try not think about it). From the pretty busy car park the place itself looks daunting (try not to think about it)!. Coming here raises a significant dilemma- I need to surrender ALL of my valuables (including my passport and a few thousand $ in assorted currencies). It is to be locked in the glove box and Bakaar will guard it! OK- it becomes an even more significant exercise when M announces that I have to record all of the cash and take photos of the list and the cash, AND I then have to take the key to the glove box with me into the hot springs. OK... Perhaps the company have been burnt before? - this clearly is an exercise in double protection. My life now locked in the glove box I wave goodbye to Bakaar- he looks nervous! I think I look more nervous though.

So... here goes- I pay my 10 TJS (AUD $1.20), 5 TJS for locals, and as it's ladies time slip on through the big door. There are massive hills of calcified minerals surrounding the springs. Drop my gear near the under cover bench area and try to modestly slip into the water. It is utterly sublime. Amazing naked bathing in open air hot springs. All shapes and sizes and ages. I do stand out being ghostly white and clearly not from around these parts but I enjoy it. The water is a nice warm temperature- the closer you get to the spring, the hotter it is, I move from area to area. One of the local women showed me how to scrape of the mineral deposits to form a paste which is then used as a scrub. A couple of the women speak some English and engage me in a little conversation. It is all quite liberating. Loved it actually.

Now very clean and scrubbed, I return to the car- Bakaar looks relieved, I am definitely relieved. Bakaar is keen to return all my stuff, M says we should wait until we get to tonight's home stay. I'm OK with that, however Bakaar is looking worried again. Anyway... we're off- we officially enter the Wakhan Corridor, the snowy peaks of the Hindu Khush are visible off in the distance. The Hindu Khush that I have read about in so many books- the mountains marking the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. Have another surreal moment.

Next stop- a small Wakhan Museum. Interesting exhibits of Wakhi architecture, textiles, clothing and jewellery. Entry donation required (10 TJS- AUD $1.20). Next stop is due to starvation- breakfast was a long time ago. We have a picnic in a field. Disaster has struck though- our large gas bottle has leaked, the bread is mouldy and some of the fruit has rotted, Bakaar gets the blame for all of these events- M is adamant that he hasn't looked after these things while M and I have been off trekking and what is in the car is largely B's responsibility. I stay well out of it- I have a 230g gas canister, a thermos and my portable stove in my trusty back pack- I set about making tea for us all while M picks the mould off the bread, chops the rotten bits out of the fruit and we find some well taken care of cheese and some sweet biscuits. It's a pretty great spot for a picnic, the trusty sarong re-enters the lunch arena.

Next stop is the Khakha Fort, also known as the Qah Qaha Fortress (4th century AD monument left from Kushan era and is named after legendary hero and the king of Siahpushes- Qanqaha). Jump out of the car ready to explore but first we must visit the one solitary small stall on the way in- there is a Tajik man dressed in Afghani clothing selling all sorts of souvenirs, he is accompanied by some goats (for attention) and his wife. I leave with a scarf, I decline a hat, jewellery, knitted socks and wind catchers. It's a fun detour. I'm itching to get up to the fort though. It is still actively used by the Tajik Army and a couple of soldiers wandered over to say hello while we are up there exploring. They are patrolling the Pyanj River border and have their binoculars trained on the villages on the Afghani side. From here it's back into the car - another fortress is on the menu... Driving, driving, driving upwards along a skinny road we reach Yamchun Fort- it's another significant fort in this region and is dated from the 12th century. Lots of beautiful stone walls, turrets and gun slots. The views from the ruins are spectacular, the later afternoon light makes for some captivating photos.

Next stop...yes, there's another one... another hot spring! We reach the Bibi Fatima Springs, named after the prophet Mohammed's oldest daughter, another km or so up the mountain. I have arrived at mens bathing time, after a half hour wait I pay my 10 TJS- AUD $1.20 and have an indoor clear sulphur hot spring experience with 3 other naked women. I am very, very clean as I get back into the car. Who'd have thought...2 naked hot spring experiences in 1 day!

It is now pitch black as Bakaar carefully picks his way down the perilous windy road back down the mountain and into Yamg. We arrive at a home stay in a traditional Pamiri home. I get bundled off into my room, Bakaar and Mohammed lock the door and M announces that we must do the money handover. The money belt is handed over and the laborious counting and tallying is done- very stressful. Poor Bakaar, he will be hoping that there are no more hot spring visits for the rest of the trip. The day finishes up with excellent tea and dinner. It must be nearly 10pm by the time I can crawl into my bed. I fall asleep in my pink room with the wind whistling- awesome day.

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Photos

Garm-e-Chashma Hot Springs
Entry point, the men are waiting for their time slot

Within The Springs
Taken after the women's time slot finished

Within The Springs
The area at the base of the rocks above the waterline are where the women scrape off the mineral deposits to use as a scrub

Comments

[Dancing Dave]

Khorog to Yamg
At last an area I am familiar with Gillian. Fantastic memories of life on the road and dancing with the locals. Yep...even a hot springs bath in a little men only room to the right of the main springs near the Yamchun Fort. The Fort...what a splendid panoramic view.

[Dancing Dave]

Rugs
Reminds me of a homestay in the Tajik mountains that the Binkleys, Travel Camel, Denise & I scored because there was no room in the Inn. Great memories from your luxurious pic. Especially as I love rugs!!!