Blogs from Khorog, Tajikistan, Asia

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Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog November 9th 2017

TAJIKISTAN with the Tajik Outlaws Part 2...On the Road Again. Sometimes fear is your friend...sometimes your foe...but what is it really? It's an illusion that can grip you by the throat.and lift you and toss you all about. It can fool you like illusory mirrors...reflect only the unreal...or make you THUD to earth like an insect in a cocoon. Or make you land with a SPLAT...on the road. Sometimes stepping into the unknown can be like that. Everyone has been saying, "Is it safe? Will you get shot? What happens to my case if you don't come back?" "Why do you want to travel along the northern border of Afghanistan? What if you are kidnapped...or fall off the track?" Well its my road trip not yours...leave all the whining for if I actually don't come back. ... read more
The Gang
The Guide & Drivers
Panj River & Afghan border

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 8th 2017

Chances are, if you are reading this blog, you either have an insatiable appetite for traveling in the more remote or lesser known places on this planet or you are a friend or family member. Either way, welcome to one of our more unique adventures. Introduction Until recently, any country containing the syllable “stan” would not have been high on our list of places to visit, but then we discovered that Shane Dallas, a.k.a. the Travel Camel was organizing a 14-day excursion to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It is most worthy of note that the Travel Camel goes on the road less traveled. He is the traveler’s traveler. You will not find him hobnobbing at the Cannes Film Festival or working on his tan in San Moritz. You’re more likely to find him in Iran, Afghanistan or ... read more
One bridge to Afghanistan
Playing the sato
Mountain scenery

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 8th 2017

It took us 8hrs to cover the 240km from Kalai Khum to Khorog and we ascended 1,000m to 2,150m. Pretty much the whole journey we spent in big gorges as we followed the river that marks the Tajik-Afghan border. At this point it is called the Ishkashim River but as we move up it, it becomes the Panj River. It is a big powerful river and its width varies. At the narrowest points we must have been about 30m from Afghanistan, but most of the time it is more like 100m. The whole time there was a road running parallel on the Afghan side also following the river. Gorges have sheer sides and active slips. On the Afghan side we saw where they have lost the road and were blasting out of sheer rockface 100m up ... read more
Fueling up as we head out of Kalai Khum
The truck with a little problem - we managed to squeeze through the gap between the cab and the rock
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Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog July 17th 2016

July 17 - Pamir Highway trip Day 6 - Khorog to Yamchun Last night I slept pretty well. I think that is the first time in three weeks. I still got up early and decided to use the internet while it was available to update the blog. Very exciting. I also ate some day old bread and repacked quickly, once it was 8:30. We left Khorog at 9am, and started our first day in the Wakhan Valley. It is supposed to have the best views of the whole trip. We are still driving alongside Afghanistan, which is always stunning, but now we can also see the snow-capped Hindu Kush mountains behind them. This is the border between Afghanistan and Pakistan. First stop of the day was tiny Dasht village, 1.7 km uphill from Anderob village. It ... read more
Wakhan valley
Wakhan valley
Wakhan valley, with our van and driver

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog July 16th 2016

July 16 - Pamir Highway trip Day 5 - Jizeu valley to Khorog Today was an early day for all. We wanted to get to the next town as early as possible, because it is Saturday, and on Saturday mornings there is a special Afghan market where people from Afghanistan are allowed to cross the border into one special area for trade. Originally the plan was to go further south to a similar market that is more in a no-man's-land (you even need your passport for it), but it has been closed for a year and a half now. Too bad. But to make out plan work today, we had to get up at 4:30am and start hiking at 5am. The woman running the homestay had the best English of all so far, and she wanted ... read more
Lake
Afghan market
Afghan market

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog July 14th 2016

Geo: 37.4867, 71.5498Time Check: 0625 Thursday 15th JulyLocation: The LAL Inn Khorog. The LAL Inn is a reasonably well appointed hotel run by a hard faced and humourless Russian who looks like Putins brother. We have a interesting Pigeon Loft at the end of our corridor....Highlights: Mega good Indian meal last night in the Aga Khan Foundation Building:Group Update: The Vegetarian has suddenly started to eat chicken for some reason.... No incidents to report apart from some discontent about single room allocations.We have been on the go since leaving Dushanbe on Monday. Khorog is a 1/4 Horse Town and regional centre for this area. There is a small airport/landing strip which is equipped with the latest "wind sock". There a high mountains at both ends of the Runway and apparantly the slightest cloud means NO FLIGHTS.Today ... read more
Khorog Market
Don't be fooled by the innocent  "Ecolook"
Khorog Market

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 28th 2015

The journey from Osh, Kyrgyzstan to Khorog, Tajikistan along the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor is slow, high altitude, bumpy, and dusty. The homestays along the way are basic with long drop outside toilets, limited electricity, and no internet. It's been 6 of the best travel days of our life. We've loved the jaw droppingly spectacular landscape, the wonderful people, and the oddness of for days being literally just a few metres away from Afghanistan - a fantastic, exhilarating experience that we will remember and re-live for a long time to come. Pictures will do a better job than words but choosing just a few from the hundreds we took was too difficult a task so with this post there are more than normal.... read more
Goodbye Kyrgyzstan
Hello Tajikistan
Gorno Badakhstan Autonomous Oblast

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 27th 2015

This blog comes in three parts ... Khorog to Yamchun We woke up in Khorog planning to set off after giving the car a service. It ended up taking longer than expected to tinker with the car so we left around midday. The drive was amazing, the roads were surprisingly good too. We managed to make good progress until we turned a corner only to find a lorry on it's side blocking the whole road. We were thinking of what to do because if we couldn't pass the only option was to wait for the lorry to be moved (could take days) or turn back. When we arrived a big 4x4 was struggling to drive up a verge onto the neighbouring farmers field in an attempt to drive round the lorry. Our chances of getting up ... read more
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Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 23rd 2015

We've finally made it to Khorog! It took us much longer than we expected for various reasons but we're here now and ready to start the Wakhan tomorrow. After a very lazy morning in Dushanbe we eventually set off towards Khorog, a town that signifies the start of our last adventure ... The Pamir highway and the Wakhan corridor. The plan was just to get as far as possible and then camp wherever we were as it began to get dark. The driving was slow due to the bad roads and it quickly became apparent that due to our late start we would be on the road (and camping) for two nights. The drive was not made any quicker by being pulled over regularly to register out passports and car throughout the journey ... And a ... read more
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Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog July 21st 2014

KHOROG. MONDAY 21.5.14 At last I can report a positive day! I slept until 7.30, then woke with concern that I had missed breakfast, which would have been a major disappointment as it was delicious, the best yet. Later, I decided to go downtown with one of the new riders from Kashgar, Robin, a pleasant overly clever woman of mid 30's. The Tuk Tuk style van to travel 5 Kms was 3 Som, about 60 cents total. I could get used to these expenses. The road borders the river separating Afghanistan, this northern view looks quite interesting. Saw plenty of walled villas, and couldn't help but wonder who lurks behind them! Arrived in town on market day, standard country market. Got an interesting photo of a policeman and his hat, who was happy to pose, as ... read more
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