Getting there the long way around! {Cath}

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My usual question, unanswered by these -- by most -- travel books, is: How did you get there? Even without the suggestion of a motive, a prologue is welcome, since the going is often as fascinating as the arrival.

-Paul Theroux, To the Ends of the Earth]

And, in our decision to try and save a few pesos, this was truely the case in getting to **** Island.

There were 2 options to get to the remote island from Sabang.
1: We could take a 2,5 hr boat ride for P1000 if there were more than 2 of us, or we could hire the boat for P4000.
2: We could take a jeepney to Salbation, and then catch the Jeepney from Salbation to Port Barton, and from Port Barton, so the boatmen in Sabang said, it would be a 15min -and much cheaper- boat ride.

We had been told the night before that there was a typhoon coming through and that all ferries in the morning would be cancelled, but if the roads were not too bad the Jeepneys would still be running. We decided to take our chances anyway, and were up and ready at 6:30 for the 7am Jeepney. (although Philippines opporates on Coconut time, i.e. that things are unlikely to happen before after about 30min- an hour after the scheduled time, sometimes, if the jeepneys are fulled up early, they leave early, so it's good to get there a bit early)

When we got there, we found our boat man who told us that we could go on the boat after all... the sea would be ok. Still after having cancelled the night before, we thought that there would not be anyone else on the island willing to split the boat fare with us, and P4000 was simply too steep.

And so it was, cautioned with the boatman's words that, "It'll be an adventure with the Jeepney", we jumped onboard.

In traditional Filipino style, the brightly coloured Jeepney was filled to bursting with passengers. Almost like when you pour too much spaghetti into a strainer... piled high, hanging out any holes, and the stuff in the middle, completely engulfed 😊 Most of the passengers were schoold kids with freshly washed hair, chatting excitedly and exchanging homework.

About 20min into the ride the jeepney made the 'school' stop. It was the most incredible thing to watch as the students simply kept falling out the Jeepnet, filling the streets around us.

The road to Salbation from Sabang is busy being tarred, one side at a time in alternating segments, leaving room for only one vehicle at a time. This means that before any blind rise or corner, the jeepney slowed a bit and hooted to see if there was anyone coming. Aptly named 'Abortion' road, it would challenge the best ralley drivers, yet the Jeepney seemed to bump over the holes and climb the steep inclines seeminly effortlessly! Like a restless monster eager for a challenge.

As we drove out of Sabang, the scenery got more and more spectacular -and this is a feat, as Sabang is wonderful - with massive while and brown, jungle clad cliffs rising abouve brilliant green rice paddies. Absolutely breath-taking with all the rugged beauty.

About 2 hours down the line, we made it to the town of Salbation, and here the adventure really started...

We were warned that we could wait for a while at the change over for the jeepney to Port Barton, so as we arrived, Darrell went to go and find water, while I unpacked the instant coffee and biscuites... aah breakfast! 😊 -perfectly timed, the van arrived as we were finishing packing up! Darrell negotiated the price with the driver, an unusual looking man with a thin moutache, close cropped hair and penny-round glasses, who said it was a 4 hour ride. We agreed to pay P250 each for the ride there. Because we were going to the end of the trip we were bundled into the back... and off we went

The van leg of teh ride kicked off with the bass version of "Funky Town" the instant the driver turned the key.

The roads from this point got considerably worse as we wound through the jungle! And now, from the recent rains, the roads were more like a mud-fight pool than anything that a vehicle should drive on!. We bounced our way through the waterfilled mud holes, our driver expertly avoiding getting stuck in a hole on the sloshy parts, and then gathering speed on the better parts of the road to make up lost time. (Honestly... I was praying the whole trip! 😊)
As the roads were bad, the view out of the window was spectacular... absolutely breath-taking... the vast density of green that just went on and on... un be lieve able! 😊

It really was with shakey legs (only partly due to the restricted blood flow) that we climbed out of the van. But where were we?
It looked like a remote harbour, not exactly what we imagined Port Barton to look like at all... and that's because we weren't there! We were at the port of San Vincente. The road to Port Barton was un-drivable due to the rains, and this was the detour route...

An old friendly-looking fisherman jumped up to our rescue. He said that he was going to Port Barton soon, but that he needed to check with the tourist information to see if he was allowed to take us on his 6 seater boat, but that if all was well, he would take us for P200 each. And all was well (I'm still not sure where the tourist information was... 😊 ) so we clambered on board with the 6 other passengers bound for islands on the way to Port Barton.

The boat ride was majestic! I remember thinging as the old man pushed us away from the pier, that this is travelling. Theroux was right, the journey was the important part. I did't want it to end. We were seeing so much... experiencing new things all arou....

And then the 1 000 000 jack-hammer engine was pulled to life, ceasing all conversation! It was awesome.

The wooden boat made it's was slowly, stopping at 2 other islands and passing many other 'perfect' island beaches with crystal clear water, palms and white beaches before finally arriving at Port Barton.

Port Barton was a lot more of a coastal beach town, although we didn't get into the town at all... this was just the impression we got from the beach front and view of the first street through a bridge. We didn't stay long. Darrell organised to borrow a phone from one of the boat men at Port Barton to handful of bungallows, named 'Coconut Gardens', to come and pick us up (P250each). -If you want to hire a boat from the island, it's P1500 for the boat. Insadently, Coconut Gardens will also pick you up from Sabang for P3500 for the boat.

And finally, after a full day of travelling, at 4pm we were on our way to the island.

What an adventure! 😊

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