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Published: August 9th 2017
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Geo: 28.1204, 85.4901
I was in bed by 7:30 where Radek was still in bed. But going to bred early meant that i woke early, 4:30 in fact. But it was to the sound of Radek's heavy breathing, i thought he was going to have a heart attack and he was still in bad shape by the time the sun rose. I knew there was no way that he was going to continue. He said that he had a cold and cough and that climbing in altitude didn't help. We were told that it was -15C the night we camped.
We went for breakfast but Radek didn't manage to eat anything. Originally i was thinking about going back to Kathmandu with Radek but Chelsey and Dustin were still going up so i decided to go with them. I helped Radek pack and we arranged a porter to help him. He was so relieved to be going back to Kathmandu.
Even though Radek had only made it a small way, i feel in no way was it a wasted trip for him. He still got to see some amazing views and places and got to test out the trail, so good on him.
So Chelsey, Dustin
and myself pressed on to Tengbouche. Chelsey and Dustin had hired a porter, Krishna, who is a great guy. He lives around the Everest region and is 29 with four kids and a wife. A happy guy always up for a joke and we got along well.
So even though my aim was to do the trek without a porter or guide, knowing that Krishna is around makes it more fun. I obliged by paying him 1000rs and will give him another 2000rs just so I'm not taking him for granted because I'm tagging along with Chelsey and Dustin. But i am still doing the trek solo (in a way), I'm still hauling my own pack up with me and not really paying for a guide or porter. It's not about saving money but it's about achieving the goal independently and proving to myself that i can. I find it more self satisfying doing this way. But that's me, everyone is different.
So we walked steadily along the mountain before descending right downhill to the river where we stopped for lunch. The worse thing was we had to go straight back uphill for 2 hours to Tengbouche. It was similar to
the hill up to Namche but more of a gradual slope. By the time we hit the trail uphill the cloud had drifted in and the temperature dropped, but because you are hiking uphill you still feel warm. It's only when you stop that you feel cold.
We finally reached Tengbouche at an altitude of 3800 M.A.S.L where the cloud had surrounded the whole village and you couldn't see anything around.
Chelsey and Dustin got a huge thermus of teas and a fire was lit using dried Yak Poo which is pretty effective and surprisingly doesn't smell. We were joined by some other trekkers. Jasper from Belgium who is studying in Shanghi and trekking alone and two other older Canadian guys who are teaching and living in Taiwan. It was a nice night talking, along with the guides and owners. I had had a Sherpa stew for dinner which is a vegetarian dish, soup like dish full of Vegetables and Potato, Really nice, not filling enough for me though.
The Dustin and myself splurged on a Snickers and Mars pie respectively. For 250rs, about $4, it's a Mars bar which is friend into a pastry. Oh My God it was worth it, but
only once because it gets more expensive the higher you go.
So it was off to bed, early as usual, with a -20 sleeping bag, my blanket, two doona covers on top while sleeping in my clothes (two jackets, thermals, a scarf and beanie).
I was pretty warm.
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