"Eddy! Great!" said the excited voice on the other end of the phone, "Where are you? Did you get across the border OK?" Ten minutes later the voice had materialized into a person, our Couchsurfing host in Ulaanbaatar, Mobgolia's capital city. Begz was a small, thirty three year old man in a beret with a weathered face that, like many Mongolians, made him look older than he really was. Seeing him wheeling his bike, loaded with a 25kg sack of flower, a hoe, a rake and various other gardening tools, towards us down the train station platform, he could easily have been a character out of a Charles Dickens novel, perhaps an older, darker-skinned yet similarly-attired version of Tiny Tim from A Christmas Carol. "I'm very happy you're here," he said, the same excitement I had
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