Well, we’re sitting here and sipping our beers, as the sun slowly dips behind the teeming jungle - overlooking the treacherous Pelagus Rapids, the site of innumerable battles between various headhunting tribes in years gone past… After Mulu and a brief stop in Miri, we paused overnight at the Niah Caves on our way south - a National Park again renowned for its caves. But whereas Mulu had the flashy, showy ones, Niah’s are of another interest altogether. The caves house the remains and paintings of the oldest known peoples of Southeast Asia - a skull has been found here which has been carbon-dated to around 40000 years, give or take. We spent a lovely afternoon trekking the eight kilometre roundtrip to the Traders Cave where over the ages, the locals have come to trade guano
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