Si Phan Don

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Geo: 14.1376, 105.817

I was tired and relieved when I reached Don Khong Island, I probably cycled 110 km today which takes me a good bit over the 6000 km mark which I'm pleased about although I've still a long, long way to go. Unfortunately my km counter stopped working after leaving Siem Reap and it was Kratie before I got it going again, turned out to just be dirt and dust so I'll need to keep an eye on that! I never in a million years thought I would cycle my way through China, Vietnam, Cambodia and now into Laos, it is definitely the way to see the country, off the beat and track and putting myself in positions you otherwise wouldn't experience – it really has been incredible and a huge learning experience.


When I arrived at the border of I managed to sort out a one month visa into Laos for $35, took a couple of pictures then got on my way. My first stop was at one of the waterfalls but unfortunately they want $5 to cycle down the road to it and I need a bank first before going anywhere which is apparently a further 25 km north so I keep going. After asking I got down to where bank is but its across the ferry on the island of Don Khong and ive no money for the ferry… I ask a few men who say the bank isn't working anyway however, they are busy enjoying their new year still and think they're just preoccupied to help.


Instead I spot a hotel across on the island which offers visa services so if the bank isn't working I can always stay anyway, I went down to the ferry but when asked for money I explained I was crossing for the bank which seemed OK. It's a great wee port with cars, buses the lot, crossing in various sizes of boats, I was a bit nervous watching the bus get on but it was all good. So I got checked in for the night and crashed out, cycling in this heat is definitely draining. Next morning I headed off to find the bank and get my bearings as I've no map or internet yet to sus things out, needless to say the bank wasn't working but I am told it should be filled the next day which thankfully it was. I have a cycle round the island which in places is pretty remote, plus I sus out where the other tourists are and arrange to go down to Don Det or Don Khon via boat to see the 4000 islands which I'm in the middle of.


The locals call this area Si Phan Don which literally means 4000 islands, the islands can vary in size from Don Khong which is the biggest island to tiny rocks jutting out the river and the journey down to Don Det is filled with the skipper dodging all the outshots on this assault course, the route he takes seems to be marked with poles which shoot out of the water which have numbers on them but it's quite a route.


The trip is south from here and takes 1hr30min in the long boat which is full, I think there's around 16 on board and I thoroughly enjoy the trip, down through many fishermen in their traditional boats, water buffalo, kayakers, lots and lots of islands some with fancy buildings on them, it's a real adventure. On arrival at Don Det a number of people get off but I stay onto Don Khon with a few others which was 100% the right decision for me. On leaving the boat Kay and Soren plus Kelly and Nathan and I, all stuck together and got accommodation nearby for only 40,000 kip (£3.50) for a big bungalow right on the river which was lovely.


It was Kelly's birthday the next day and she wanted to go kayaking, we wandered down and got some prices and after agreeing we were all up for it went back and booked up that night for the next day – we get to see the dolphins and waterfalls on the tour which is a plus. That night we had nice food as we watched sunset in a local restaurant and got to know each other, they're a nice bunch and we have great fun together.


So it's an early start in the morning for our adventures, we're taken by boat to Don Det, have breakfast and get kitted out with life jackets and paddles. I share a kayak with Kelly which leaves Nathan one to himself which was kind of them, I think I would have been falling behind otherwise! I'm a bit nervous about being in the kayak around the dolphins but Kelly soon settles my nervous, and we have fun in the water with the others, racing or splashing and sightseeing, perfect conditions for it.


Our first pit stop takes us off the kayaks and a walk to Somphamith Waterfall where we had some time swimming or getting pulled down river by the current which was my case, it was really powerful. From here we walked further round for the kayaks and set off to see the dolphins via some rapids where we flipped the kayak round just for the fun… when we got back out to open river I was delighted when we caught sight of the Irrawaddy dolphins, I feel like I've been waiting to see then for ages and they didn't disappoint, breaking the water with their fins in harmony with each other, a one off and wonderful experience.


After watching for a considerable time we went off for lunch on another island nearby, from here we were taken by a fancy we local bus to the main waterfall at Khonephapeng which has the biggest volume wise in S.E Asia and is the waterfall I tried to get in to on arrival in Laos. Now this is really impressive, it is really strong and powerful with the water gushing down through the rapids, it's an impressive sight and I'm glad I made it, we also had a swim here to the west of the rapids which was brilliant lying under the flow of the falls, very relaxing. So we get back in our wee bus and get back to the kayaks to get back to Don Det although this time the storm is hitting the water ahead of us which makes me kinda nervous.


Nothing to worry about though, we get back over ok and end up going in for a dip to cool off before grabbing a bite to eat, we were then returned to Don Khon by motorbike which was good fun and a nice end to our trip. A quick turnaround of a shower and we went for dinner to celebrate Kelly's birthday, we had all had a brilliant day, good times and nice memories, I'm going to leave tomorrow to get cycling on up to Pakse as I've only a one month visa and I've a route planned out, but it's been a brilliant few days meeting lovely people, I've really enjoyed.

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Photos

Irrawaddy Dolphins
Unfortunately this is not my photo, none of us could get one of the dolphins they were too quick for us - this is from the poster on the islands.