Back to the Mekong

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Geo: 12.8606, 105.97

Cycling Notes:

Eventually I leave Siem Reap, only because my visa is due to expire and I need to give myself time to cycle up to the border with Laos. I've enjoyed Siem Reap with many friends around, I especially enjoyed meeting up with Emily and Ed who I first met in Nepal, and meeting their son Ben who is just a year old and an absolute heart breaker, plus their many friends from Singapore! Kenny from Brisbane who I met in Kampot, then Phnom Penh and again here, he's a real character and a lovely young guy, his friends Hong and Rod from the Tuk Tuk Bar, Robbie a fellow Scot from the Shetland Isles and not forgetting Billy from Dublin a constant companion, so all in all, many good times where had.

It's difficult finding a route from Siem Reap without going back toward Phnom Penh, although it does look like there is a way it would be easier heading straight north into Thailand and then into Laos however, I want to visit Kratie first on the way, and the 4000 Islands which means I need to head east instead. I decide to get onto Highway 66 and start cutting across country but after 60km my road turns into a sandpit and I'm forced to turn back. I end up sitting at a crossroads with a young guy that can speak English and a crowd that gathers round us, after much debate they advise me to go back down to the national road then east and I have to agree with them, I don't have the luxury of having much time to spare, it's all a learning curve!

I enjoyed my journey cycling past more 'Wat's' before heading off through rural villages, catching glimpses of local life. During the day most people lie underneath their Khmer style houses which are on stilts, swinging in their hammocks resting and trying to stay out of the sun as much as possible, their work is done early and late in the day avoiding the hottest part of the day. I can tell that they think I'm mad cycling in this weather (above 40°😉 so I'm not surprised by the looks and shouts I get, I'm really off the beat and track and people call me in out of the sun, but I have long sleeves and lots of sun cream on as well as cycling helmet so I'm pretty well covered up but despite this my legs start blistering!

I head back down to the main highway and just go with it and get down to Kampong Thom, I find it a surprisingly nice town and manage to get a good hotel straight across from the market which means dinner is quickly sorted! From here I talk to staff and sus out another route across the Mekong which cuts a chunk off my journey crossing from Phum Chong Daung by ferry in a couple of days, same as the locals. Next day I arrive at Phumi Spoe Tbung via Route 71 which was a nice route, and after a quick shower I head for dinner but a storm starts while I'm out, it looks like I'll need to get used to them in the evenings, although it's still roasting hot during the day. I sit and have a fruit shake out of the rain and buy fried chicken from a stall on the way back which was delicious, I couldn't resist. Everyone back at the hotel are getting organised to celebrate New Year tonight, this time the year is 2554… there are decorations going up and cleaning going on to celebrate at midnight, and the next days, I'm losing track.

Although it's fairly flat the next day it pushes me to the limit, I manage to follow the route I was given and eventually get to the river and get the local ferry across but the weather is really hot, even halfway I'm pretty exhausted! The local ferry was great, I cycled down and straight on board on arrival as it loaded up with motorbikes and cars alike plus some foot passengers, on route I kept my eyes peeled for the dolphins which are meant to be in the river around this area but I have no luck. All the locals had a good look about my bike and I felt all eyes on me and kindly enough, I managed to get a hand off the boat and up the embankment at the other side which was nice.

From the ferry I cycled through a number of Muslim villages which were filled with Mosque's, palm trees and corn plantations, big family groups (maybe celebrating) and a different kind of housing, bigger I think, more expensive looking, no one here really bothers with me, the houses are a bit further from the road. I eventually stop for lunch at the first place I find opened which was found by chance, even all the local shops for water have disappeared and there seems no where on the road opened. I've cycled too long today without food which means I'm exhausted by the time I stop, thankfully it's good rice and curry which keeps me going for another while, although I still don't manage to reach Kratie stopping around 30km short.

I stayed with a woman in a tiny guest house right on the river, above floating villages of Vietnamese which are all over Cambodia, in a tiny room which was very basic, the bed was pretty solid but it did have a half working fan which would need to do. I ventured out for dinner but ended up with a fruit shake and just returned to my bed too tired, I figured I would find something in the morning instead before I set off, but with only 30 km I didn't bother then either, I just had an early start and got going.

On route I met a French cyclist coming the opposite direction who advised the same, to stay for the night in Kratie as it's 140km to the next stop of Stung Treng. Kratie is a lovely town, I particularly enjoy the walkway by the river and the market in the middle of town which I bought fresh pork for my breakfast straight from the BBQ which was tasty, and lots of fruit. They are a friendly bunch and I love all the markets coming and goings, the homemade carts and wagons, they selling cries, their dress always with hats for the sun – there's a buzz about the whole thing that draws me. I get a few jobs done while here in particular getting the bike a good clean as a lot of the road here was red dirt which clogged up everything, followed by hours of people watching under the shade of a big tree down by the river, but still no sight of the allusive dolphins.

So after a relaxing day I'm packed and ready again as I set off for Stung Treng, it's going to be a long one and from early morning the weather is roasting. I find my route out ok and have a proper soup breakfast on the way and it's no time before I'm out in the middle of nowhere again, some small villages are dotted along it but nothing else. It's a real slog today and after hours I find myself starting to stop for a break under every tree for shade I can find, it's so hot! I'm drinking 10 liters of water a day in the heat and hardly going to the toilet, the water is just pouring out my pores, and it's proving to be so tough that I don't manage to reach my destination of Stung Treng.

Around 20 km from town darkness was closing in, I had decided to keep going as the road didn't have too many potholes but my mind was quickly changed! In the distance I could see the storm approaching which I'm now getting used to, but I hadn't accounted for the change in attitude of the dogs… Although no bother by day (they're normally napping in the heat), the minute it's cooler they're out, but by the time darkness falls on me they're out in force chasing me on the road, I got such a fright the first time I almost came off swerving away from them, but by the 4-5th attacks came I knew I wasn't going to be able to keep going and sought out refuge.

I stumbled on a place off the road and asked them if I could sleep under their canopy, they must have thought I was crazy being on the road but no sooner had I asked when one of the young girls in the family who could speak some English, showed me a camp bed and offered me food and shower. I've been out since morning and exhausted, and was so thankful for their help that after a quick wash I crawled straight into bed. I was no sooner undercover when the storm hit, it was fierce with high winds sweeping around us, I was relieved to be off the road just in time.

The young girl can't believe I am alone out here and cycling up to Laos, she thinks I'm very strong and brave. She's from a large extended family around fifteen I can see but everyone beds down early as they are all up before dawn and it doesn't take me long to fall asleep tired by my efforts. I'm woken in the morning with a goose pecking at my head then wandering off joining all the other animals which are around, chickens, dogs, cats, birds so I decide on an early start too and thank my hosts for their kindness.

I start off with no dinner last night and no breakfast this morning although the family offered me both, I didn't want to take advantage, and I've passed Stung Treng without even going in instead staying on the bypass and an impressive bridge over the river. From here it's around 60km to the border which is my aim today with my visa expiring, any further will be a bonus. Once again there's nothing to see on the road, no towns or villages, no crops growing or farmers, no animals feeding but I do notice more trees than I've seen anywhere in Cambodia and rubber plantation. The traffic all passing me is heading for the border, loaded up with goods or people, so I just plod away until I arrive, delighted that I made it in time.

So I depart Cambodia which I has been a real education for me, although I planned only one month it quickly changed to two months and I've loved all the people I've met and places I've visited. It's heartbreaking history from not too long ago, the poorest people out in villages to the richest in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap with their big fancy houses and cars, things I just never expected, it's been a real eye opener.

I finish my day by cycling onto Dong Khong Island looking for a bank as I have no Lao Kip yet but it means I end up at the top of the 4000 islands, cycling further than I had planned. I managed to get the ferry over to the island for free as I didn't have any spare cash even though some men told me the bank wasn't working I had no other option. With no money or ATM the hotel directly opposite advertised visa facilities so I guessed I would at least manage to get somewhere to stay for tonight.

Let the new adventures begin (in more ways than one!)

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