Off to Laos

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Geo: 16.4958, 105.756

Up with the alarm at 05:00 ready for an early start.It is still very dark but by 06:00 when we are ready to leave ikt is getting light although still pretty fresh. Stop en-route to Phon Thong for a photo of the sun rising over the rice fields, lovely sight. I drop Jai off at the bus station then go and leave the bike on the other side of town. When I get back to the station there are no buses around at all. n overnight bus from Rayong, down south, arrives on its way to Mukdahan but wont let us on as they say there are not allowed to steal customers from the local companies. Another yellow overnight bus arrives shortly after which we ignore but no other buses are around today. The terrible twins who sell the Bangkok tickets arrive for work and I spend the next 1/2 hour watching the one apply her make-up. They say that you cant polish a turd but credit where credit due, she tried her best. Another yellow bus pulls in and I decide to try our luck again and discover that of course we can get on the bus if we buy a ticket first. Wouldnt have thought any different so we buy a ticket at the office climb on board and we are off. Would have been nice if the first bus had told us the same thing !!We leave Phon Thong about 07:30 and it is a pleasant drive to Mukdahan arriving about 09:00. Buy tickets for the International Bus which is due to leave at 09:30 and am surprised to see five other farang waiting for the bus as well. I am usually the only one crossing the border here. No problems being stamped out of Thaiand then we reboard the bus and cross the bridge over the mighty Mekong and stop at Laos immigration. Luckily I have all of my paperwork completed and quickly get my 30 day visa and walk through to rejoin the bus. The bus waits a while but when we leave I am still the only farang on board. Makes a big difference if the paperwork is completed before you arrive and I always get blank copies of everything whilst I am here ready for next time.Arriving at Savannakhet bus station we take a tuk-tuk, or skylab as they call them here, to the Savanbanhao Hotel where we usually stay. Not particularly nice place but rooms OK and in good location. I had been told that the Thai's had a new Consulate here and guessed that they had replaced their lovely old riverside house with a concrete monstrosity. Passing the new building on the way into town I was not disappointed.
Upon arrival at Savanbanhao I immediately have to start dealing with large numbers when we are given the price of the room at 90,000 kip. This equates to about 380 Thai baht or 8GBP. We move in to a surprisingly large room then go out to get some food.
Somtam 7000kip, bunch of bananas 8000kip ! Doing the maths stood on the pavement is already giving me a headache !
Back to the room to eat and then stretch out for a bit to avoid the midday sun.
About 13:00 I leave Jai dozing in the aircon and dreaming that this is better than working on the farm every day and head out for a walk. Even though the currency here might give you a headache it isnt going to kill you. Forgetting that as a result of the French they drive on the right (wrong !) side of the road here might.
I pop into St Theresa's church as it is quite close to the hotel and as I walk around the town reflect on the ethnic mix here. I pass Thai/Laos style temples, Chinese, Vietnamese and Evangelical. Wat Sainyaphum would probably have been the most attractive building of these in its original form but has been almost totally rebuilt in concrete and painted garish colours which in my eyes spoils the place. Although St Theresa's is concrete there is a bit of style about the building that I quite like.
I walk through the old market place and am pleased to see that a number of the old colonial buildings which have always been in a sorry state of repair have recently been refurbished, one as a doctor's clinic.
I wind up at the river as I always do when in town and watch a ferry leaving for Mukdahan. Still running a regular service between the two countries farangs are no longer allowed to use them being directed to the Friendship Bridge.
A new memorial garden has appeared nearby and as the writing is all in Laos and Vietnamese I cant understand any of it. I assume that it is for Kaysone Phomvihane the old Lao prime minister from 1975 onwards when the king abdicated with the formation of Lao PDR.
I pass a school where the sings are all in French but where there is a communist flag flying everywhere. Even the schoolteachers seem to be wearing what looks like military style uniforms.
A lot of noise is coming from a building ahead on a corner and at first I think it must be a popular bar. Closer inspection reveals a large snooker club with dozens of tables and loads of people. I guess this is why it is often difficult to get a tuk-tuk here. Cant really blame the French influence for snooker !
I walk on and pass Savanakhet MUseum where the lady at the door gets excited about the prospect of a visitor. We have been here before so I disappoint her and have a brief look at the military remains in the garden before continuing on.
Feeling a bit weary now I start to make my way back to the hotel stopping for a cold Coke and a bottle of water - 10,000kip - on the way. Cold shower in the room is great.
We go out again about 16:30 and walk to the Mekong for a beer as we watch the sunset over Thailand opposite. After dark we walk back into town for the best of all French legacies here, their baguettes ! Truly delicious with pate and all sorts of other stuff. We sit and eat one each on the street then buy another one each to take back to the room with us.
Reception lend us a kettle so am able to brew up a coffee to go with it before settling down for the night.

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