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Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan August 3rd 2006

Click on "previous journal" above (even if you already read it) for pictures of Phonsavan, Laos and the Plain of Jars!... read more

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan July 23rd 2006

Phonsavan, Plain of Jars. We left Luang Prabang and headed on down to a little dusty town where, scattered in the surrounding highland hills, lie huge jars that where carved from heavy stone boulders and somehow dragged to these sites and left to rest on these evergreen grassy hill sides. It is amazing that these jars survived the Vietnamese / American war, as over 2 million tons of ordinance was dropped on Loas during this time - more than what was dropped on Germany and Japan in WWII - and most of the world never knew, go figure. We took these sites in with a few other couples: Irish, American and British. The day was one of interest and wonder as we were transported from site to site in our super swift van. Locals always know ... read more
Plain of Jars - site 1
Plain of Jars - site 1
Plain 1

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan July 22nd 2006

Saturday-Sunday July 22-23 Well, we’ve managed to convince 3 other couples to join us on a trip to the Lao-Vietnamese boarder to visit an archeological site in Phonsavan called Plain of Jars. To get to Phonsavanh we traveled about 7 hours in our chartered minivan. It was quite slow because we were going up and down, around and along these huge mountains. The scenery along the way was breathtaking! Huge rolling hills and mountains with lush green vegetation and shack villages along the road perched precariously between the narrow busy road and the edge of the steep cliff. Below the shacks the people were growing bananas, pineapples and other vegetation on these 45 degree mountain sides. They even had rice growing along there (the kind that doesn’t require standing water)! Also, we’d be driving along and ... read more
Phonsavan, Laos
Phonsavan, Laos
Phonsavan, Laos

Asia » Laos » East » Muang Kwa July 19th 2006

Another river journey, but this time in my own privately chartered vessel. Expensive relative to getting a shared boat (which wasnt possible today) but still an absolute bargain! I stopped for lunch at Muang Ngoi, I tiny village with no roads. It kindof a small pile of guesthouses and a school and small temple. The view is great, over a forested valley which could easily be used to film the next Jurassic Park. However I don't think I could stay here for long - the setting may me idyllic but the village really isnt. So its back on the boat, and we carry on north. The scenery changes gradually from the rugged cliffs and mountains to more gentle and rolling hills. At times teh extent of the wet season flooding is evident as the boat navigates ... read more
riverscape
an insect on the boat

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan July 9th 2006

First a bit of history... Xieng Khouang Province lies East of Luang Phabang towards Vietnam. It's a pretty isolated place, whose population is mostly made up of minority ethnic groups such as Hmong, rather than Lao. Apart from some noteworthy and fascinatingly mysterious archaeology (see later) there wouldn't be much reason to know of the place were it not for a shocking historical fact. Xieng Khouang Province holds the unfortunate distinction of being one of the most heavily bombed places on our Planet. In the 10 years from 1965 to 1975, courtesy of American B-52s, the countryside here was at the pointy end of over 6,000,000,000 lbs of bombs. That's six billion pounds. There are fewer than 250,000 inhabitants in the entire province. The maths doesn't even bear thinking about. The region's proximity to the theatre ... read more
Hmong Romeo and Juliet
Jar versus 500lb bomb
Nasty critters

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan July 8th 2006

After the excitement of the kayaking trip, Alex and I needed a couple of days' rest before moving on...It had been our intention to leave Luang Phabang for the province of Xieng Khouang on Friday, but difficulties in finding transportation pushed our departure from Luang Phabang to Saturday. More on that later. The morning after the kayaking trip I woke up with my whole back and arms horribly stiff and sore. I was in charge of steering the kayak (coxing experience from college came in very handy here !) and navigating through the rapids required much twisting around to keep the kayak perpendicular to the rapids...Alex suggested a Lao massage to loosen up stiff muscles so we headed off to the "Garden Spa", a rather fancy name for a little house in a quiet backstreet of ... read more
The Bright Lights Of Phonsavan
Over the hills and far away...

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan June 15th 2006

Phonsavan is home to an ancient little known lost Scoobie Doo episode it's title "The Plain of Jars." Yes we really went out of our way to go see some mysterious stone jars in a field. Yes the field was only partially cleared of land mines. I can hear you saying, "Isn't it thrilling enough to gaze upon the enigmatic jars? Why add so much excitement with land mines?" Well you know I like to push the envelope and also I wasn't alive when they (Ze Germans! Ok the Americans really) bombed the shit out of the place. Also I find land mines erotic. Don't know why. The last plain of jars of the day was as advertised, "the best." The walk through some rice paddies and up a meadow with peacefully grazing water buffalo is ... read more
Weird
Hole in a Jar
Sam Neua Scene

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan April 15th 2006

Dem vielen Wasser in Luang Prabang entfliehe ich in Richtung Osten. Nahe der vietnamesischen Grenze befinden sich die “Field of Jars”. Die deutsche Uebersetzung “Ebene der Tonkruege” ist irrefuehrend, weil die Kruege gar nicht aus Ton sind, sondern aus Stein. In der Gegend um die Phonsavan wurden die per Hand behauenen Steinkruege inklusive “Deckel” auf mehrere Huegel transportiert und dazu benutzt die Asche von Toten beizusetzen. Wie der Transport der bis zu 15 Tonnen schweren Kruege abgelaufen ist, welches Brauchtum dazugehoerte und welche Kultur hier ueberhaupt ansaessig war, das ist ziemlich wenig erforscht. Fuer die Laoten steht jedoch fest: die Kruege sind Becher aus denen der Riese “Kha” Reiswein gebechert hat. Mann, muss “Kha” voll gewesen sein - bei insgesamt 300 Kruegen… Die vielen Wisschenschaftler, die sich eben nicht mit der Erforschung der historischen Hintergruende bes ... read more
...samt Deckel...
...liegen in herrlicher Karstlandschaft mit Reis- und Weideflaechen...
...gestoert nur von den Kratern amerikanischer Bomben aus dem "Zweiten Indochinakrieg" !

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan March 18th 2006

The Plain of Jars is named after the large stone "jars" that are scattered over the countryside. A bit of a Laos stonehenge, its not exactly clear what hey were used for. The area was heavily bombed by the US in the 60's & 70's and there is still loads of unexploded bombs found in the ground. The area around the jars had been partially cleared but we had to stick to the main footpaths. ... read more
Warning Sign
UXO
Simon

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan March 3rd 2006

The plain of jars is fascinating and interesting historically - both for the 3000 years they've been there and the damage done during the American War. But the bus ride was even better! I visited the plain of Jars with two Slovenian girls (later I was to check out the CIA factbook to find out where the hell Slovenia is) and two Austrians that I met on the most interesting bus I have ever been on. Friday 3rd March, 2006 Woke up, stood up, and collapsed in agony as pain soared through my lower back; I knew immediately that my old army injury had returned to haunt me. Back in 1995 during fire and movement drill on an officer training course I had put my back out and had limited movement for 8 years until, on ... read more
Our overheated bus
Refilling the water tank
The Plain of Jars




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