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Asia » Laos » East » Vieng Xai January 25th 2019

This morning we visit the Vieng Xai caves. We are sharing a taxi with three other travellers that we met yesterday on the bus. It’s a bit of a squeeze in the back but I am fortunate - for once it pays to be the fattest as I get the front seat! Our driver takes us through the mist covered karsts, along half made roads and up and down through the mountainous countryside. It takes 50 minutes and now we have arrived at the visitor centre. The Vieng Xai caves were the headquarters of the Pathe Lao Liberation Army between 1964 and 1973, the years when the American Air Force daily dropped tons of bombs in an effort to destroy the political leadership. Here, we see the massive war shelter cave complex. The area’s geology comprises ... read more
Air machine
Bedroom
Cave entrance

Asia » Laos » East » Sam Neua January 24th 2019

We are up early to catch our bus to Sam Neua. The restaurants are closed so we grab a scrambled egg roll at the bakery and buy another two plus some cake for the journey. A tuk tuk arrives to take us through the cold morning air to the out-of-town bus station. Here, a weird man decides to rush up to hug Ian. It’s a bit of a shock but even worse when he tries kissing and licking him! He is surprisingly strong as we both try to pull him off. At first we thought he was attempting to pick his pocket, but actually it turns out to be an over friendly gesture by an unstable person. Our bags are stashed on a minibus roof and then we are handed a carrier bag and told to ... read more
Clouds below
In the mountains
Home farming

Asia » Laos » East » Xiangkhoang January 23rd 2019

We start our day at the Chinese restaurant with a glass of tea and a fried egg breakfast. The tea looks like it has twigs floating in it. Tastes fine though. The eggs are great, but why do they serve them with a mixed salad? We eat the eggs and leave the salad. This morning we are heading to old Xieng Khoun, the region’s old capital city, but not before a trip to the SOS Children’s village. We have often been handed envelopes for donating unused foreign currency on return to the UK airline flights but never quite known anything about the charity. It turns out to be an orphanage with a modern, less institution-like approach. The kids (who are not all orphans), live in ‘families’ with a house mother. This village is aimed towards bomb ... read more
Visit to SOS Village
SOS Village
Wat Si Phoum

Asia » Laos » East January 22nd 2019

We arrive at the bus station on the outskirts of Phonsavan an hour early - that’s a bit of a buggar really as it’s only 5am, it’s freezing cold, our guest house is bound to be locked up and we now have to vacate our nice warm beds on the bus! The journey was reasonably comfortable although the winding mountain roads did throw us around a bit. Outside, a tuk tuk driver is right on hand to assist us - of course he is - he wants 80,000 kip to take us the couple of km into town. That’s outrageous, more than a taxi in the UK would cost! And it’s a share tuk tuk at that. I remain firm that we are not interested in paying tourist prices...and since it’s only 5am, we may as ... read more
Spoon making
Plain of Jars - Site 3
Noodle soup

Asia » Laos » East » Plain of Jars June 26th 2018

2000 years old stone jars and 50 years old bombs In north central Laos there is a city named Phonsavan. We went there because we wanted to visit the archaeological site Plain of Jars and Phonsavan is the city of choice to do that from. The Plain of Jars consists of possibly as many as 100 separate sites where there are large stone jars standing or lying on the ground. Some of these sites are small, maybe having only a handful or so of these old artefacts, where as others are bigger with several hundreds of jars. The jars are believed to be between 1500 and 2500 years old. Only a few of these sites are today open for visitors and many of the other sites have not even been researched properly. However, a strong recommendation ... read more
Plain of Jars
Plain of Jars
Emma and a jar

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan November 19th 2017

Getting to Phonsavan A songthaew came to get me at my hotel at the appointed time to take me to the bus station where our minibus was waiting. The inside of the minibus was already full of stuff; there were sacks of grain on the aisle and cans of cooking oil underneath the seats. Because of this, I was stoked when we set out with four empty seats. The minibus headed north halfway to Luang Prabang, then turned east. Just after turning east, the driver stopped for two women with six children. They put a lot of stuff atop the minibus, including two chickens in a cardboard box. It got crowded. The road was winding and bumpy. The driver didn’t stop much, so I was glad I kept to my regimen of forced dehydration on long ... read more
Plain of Jars Site 3
Plain of Jars Site 3
Plain of Jars Information Center

Asia » Laos » East » Xiangkhoang August 20th 2017

Before coming to Laos over one month ago, I was naively unaware of the many historical treasures that this country holds. In Vientiane, the current capital of Laos, one will find the Patuxai, an "Arc de Triomphe"-like structure built between 1957 and 1968 to commemorate the independence of Laos from France in 1949. Similarly, in Luang Prabang, one will find numerous Buddhist temples and monasteries in a city that was once the royal capital of the Kingdom of Laos until the Pathet Lao (a communist political movement and organization) took it over in 1975. But this past weekend, I traveled to Xieng Khouang, a province of Laos that is far less frequented than either Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Yet, despite its relative lack of attention from tourists, Xieng Khouang is home to a dizzying array of ... read more
Silk weaving...
Wat Pia Vat
Poster from MAG office

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan March 4th 2017

At the crack of dawn (seems most all buses in Laos leave from 6am-8am) I made my way to the terminal in Luang Prabang and purchased a ticket ($95,000kip) for the eight hour journey East to Phonsavan, or locally known as Xieng Khouang. Located in the North Eastern Province of Laos, close to the Vietnamese border, the rolling dusty valleys pegged in by mountainous jungles are home to some unique ancient archeological sites and the friendly Hmong hill tribe peoples. Unfortunately due to the strategic location and the events happening in the late 1960's and early 1970's this area of the planet was subjected to the largest and most intense aerial bombardment in the history of warfare and certainly in the history of mankind. All in a nation that was declared neutral by the Geneva Conference ... read more
scars
sign
jars

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan January 29th 2017

The Plain of Jars is quite a curiosity. Hundreds of neolithic jars are scattered around the landscape and archaeologists' opinions about them are at odds with local legends. Staying in Phonsavan gives you a great base from where to explore the area, but getting there is something of an adventure in itself! We had booked our bus tickets with an agent in Luang Prabang. That meant we were collected from our hotel and taken to the bus station, quite some way out of town. Our driver seemed to be on some kind of errand run on the way as he stopped several times to pick up and deliver packages and, more surprisingly, sandwiches! Most travellers have experienced what came next. You get to the bus station and see a decrepit bus at the stand you expect ... read more
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