Getting from Kuala Lumpur to Iboih beach on Pulau Weh (off the north coast of Aceh, Sumatra) involved the full gamut of transport: taxi, train, bus, plane, another taxi, ferry and motorbike. Nevertheless, the twelve hour journey went without a hitch and by 4 p.m. we were sitting on the balcony of our stilted hut over-looking the flat-calm Indian Ocean: a pellucid swirl of emerald, cobalt, azure and indigo. Here at Yulia’s the restaurant overhangs the crystal-clear sea and a myriad of fish amble amidst the coral below; it promises to be snorkeling paradise. As evening draws-in huge fruit bats with orange manes swoop across the purple sky before making heavy landings and inverted scrambles to gorge on… fruit (forgot to ask the name of the tree). Our hut, positioned twenty yards up the hill side
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