After ascending Mt Kelimutu for sunrise to see the summit lakes in the clarity of the early morning, I returned to Moni village to get ready for the bus west. By the time I left, thick cloud was already enveloping the summit. Thick clouds also enveloped me a little later in the day - clouds of foul acrid smoke as my fellow bus passengers puffed away at cigarettes made from pickled cow dung mixed with cloves. On its own, that would have been enough to make a 12 hour bus journey really quite unpleasant. It was, however, not on its own. Oh no. Not even slightly. Wedged between several hundred kilograms of rice and a trio of chainsmokers, in a seat that was so close to the one in front that I would have had to
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