Blogs from Bikaner, Rajasthan, India, Asia - page 5

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Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner December 2nd 2008

After a morning of bank problems we were invited to the house of our driver Kulwant to learn how to cook chapattis with his wife, Babli. Here we also met his son and learnt how he felt about arranged marriages. He confided in us about his secret/love girlfriend that his parents didn’t know about. We really enjoyed the home cooked food- including home made butter straight from the cow! With stomachs full we set off on our ‘5 hour’ journey to Bikaner. 7 hours later we were still people watching in the back of your motor home. We were so overwhelmed by the people in the country side and the villages that we hardly spoke to each other the whole way! Bikaner to Jaisalmer We woke up early, ready to finish our journey to Bikaner. Before ... read more
Chillin in our motor home
Rats chillaxin
Someone's getting ratty...

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner November 18th 2008

Took night train to Bikaner in style. Still didn't sleep though as the other 2 in our compartment snored like all hell! Less touristed area and still chaotic. Went to see Junagargh Fort. OK but nothing compared to Jaisalmer or Jodhpur. Not even allowed on the alls, so more of a museum. Have realised what cows eat here. See them in garbage all the time. I swear they eat anything! Cardboard, clothes, any kind of organic compost, even crackers from my hand. They sleep in the middle of roads, wherever they want. Too funny! Went out to the Rat Temple. Can't remember the story in full, but all the rats are reincarnated storytellers or something like that. If one walks over your feet it's considered good luck! I had one go under! But seriously, gross rats ... read more
cows
Jonagargh
me

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner November 12th 2008

Hello all - it has been a while! Obviously I survived the first long train journey - 13.5 hours of lying down trying not to pee! Since then I have completed a 3 day long camel safari (sore legs), complete with eating food cooked on whatever dung could be found around the place and with two nights sleeping under the stars with Melvin the camel nearby (thank you for the name suggestion Sian). It was kind of scary, but we were so far away from everything it’s pretty fantastic compared to the big smoke of Delhi! Everytime we stopped to make a poop-fire to cook a meal, at least one dog appeared from a village and waiting desperately for some leftovers (usually patiently, though you’ll see the picture of the sneaky beast who stole from our ... read more
British Heritage
Cenotaphs
Chilling in a Rajasthani Desert Hut

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner November 7th 2008

Things observed/noted so far in India… 1) It smells, open sewers are weak. 2) People sleep EVERYWHERE, 3) The centre of New Delhi is sorta modern, and you can relax in the park with only a little bit of hassle, 4) People really want to clean my ears and shoes, 5) Cat Moss is a great name for a clothes shop, 6) Squashing a mossie on the wall and seeing a big red blood splatter is horrific, 7) If you’re English, you must be recognised from sweating in the heat, and then greeted with ‘lovely jubbly’, 8) London the the only place in the uk, 9) Hostel towels are only to be used for one purpose, 10) The logic of a bidet is undeniable, but you are left with a wet bum, 11) Don’t just assume ... read more

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner November 6th 2008

Bikaner, the Rat Temple and Pushkar - by Laura Before I start on the subject of rat temples, a favourite topic of mine, let me describe car journeys in a bit more detail for you. Think back to the days of learner driver lessons and theory tests and forget it all - in summary it is a good thing that Indian's are religious (whichever God (s) they choose to follow) as otherwise nobody would drive in India, not even hard core London drivers. The best example was a single track lane - the main road between major towns I hasten to add - where traffic in both directions play "chicken" until someone (usually the larger vehicle) admits defeat and pulls over onto the dust track. This game is a battle of wills and car size and ... read more
The Barbershop
Big guns at Bikaner fort
Pushkar from up high

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner October 13th 2008

Bikaner, Rajasthan 10th to 12th October 2008 Today we moved on to Bikaner which is probably the nearest we get to the Pakistan border 100k away. The desert to the north is now a restricted area. Met 'Henry' our fellow guest at the Vinayak Guest House at dinner tonight. He is from New York and is researching genetics at the Centre for Reseach on Camels which we are visiting tomorrow. Going to get an insider tour and see the camels coming home at 4.00pm! Jitu our host is really great and so helpful. He works at the camel place too!!! His dad runs a charity shop supporting local craftspeople and mum has a dress shop next door. Hope to spend some money at both. This is a real homestay in the middle of the town ... read more
Bikaner Havili
Bikaner Fort
Bikaner Old Town

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner August 3rd 2008

It’s has been awhile since the last update. Looking back… Waiting at Falma train station, we got our first taste of ‘India late train frustration.’ To be on the safe side, we arrived at the station an hour early. How naive! Of course the train was delayed for over two hours so we sat sweating on a concert slab for over three hours. Our only entertainment was watching a pack of railway dogs ‘get busy’ creating the next generation of railway dogs. Pretty sad really. After a night in Jodphur, we caught a morning train to Bikaner and checked into our crappy hotel. Because of the heat, we decided to check into ‘the only hotel in Bikaner with a pool’ The pool was grimy and full of bugs. Unfortunately it was so hot that we had ... read more
Chris and his steed developed a very close relationship
Sexy beast
Inside the palace

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner August 1st 2008

We left Pushkar on Wednesday at 08:30 to make our way to Bikaner, a small desert town in the North West of Rajasthan. We had pre-booked train tickets from a nearby town, Merta, only to later find out that the only way to Merta is to get on the Bikaner bus and get off at the first stop! Sounds a bit back to front, but in actual fact we were quite relieved we hadn’t opted for the 7hr bus journey as it turned out the bus was a local bus for local people! As it was a local bus, luggage space was minimal, so we had to block all major exit routes with our large rucsacks and place our smaller bags in the over head areas. 5 minutes into the journey and one of the smaller ... read more
One of the entrances to the rat temple
On Safari
The photo point

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner July 12th 2008

The Thar Desert is selective as to what lives or dies and what flourishes or withers. Make no mistake, it has the final word. It is a flat, featureless plain of low, bristly scrub. The Chhalanis and I roll through the Thar in the Chevy hatchback. Conversation among them concerns either business or family. I stare fifteen miles into the distance and no changes in the landscape. I cannot help but fear what would happen if a vehicle broke down and there was no assistance. The sixty-kilometer ride permits the family to question me. After having explained the writing portion of my journey and where I would like to take the project, Mrs. Chhalani was not getting out of the car without a few bold words for me with respect to how I should write about ... read more
Full View
Animal Pen
Mr. Chhalani

Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bikaner July 11th 2008

Mr. Chhalani and his son were there to meet me on the platform as promised. The father speaks in spurts. If you haven’t gotten to know him well enough, you’d think he has a crabby disposition. His deceptive irritability conceals an unconditional, yet forceful kindness. Hanging out with the entire Chhalani clan is an exercise in tag-team hospitality. Once one of them is done strangling you with generosity and consideration, he runs to the corner of the ring and slaps the hand of a brother or the lady of the house; on comes the next to smother you with more. In the end with the Chhalanis, resistance is futile. Their newly built, custom-designed mini mansion is indicative of the name they have made for themselves in Bikaner. Yellowing newsprint still sticks to walls above doorways where ... read more
Just Outside the Gate
Packworth Factory
The Boss




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