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Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 14th 2005

It's official, I am sick. I have been in denial since arriving, each day hoping I will miraculously get better ... but today I finally listened to Ajay and went to the doctor. I have been hacking and coughing and yesterday I felt almost like I had an asthma attack after spending a big part of the day driving in Delhi's hellish traffic. Plus I turn red, and my skin feels like it's burning, when I am out. (Went to CP yesterday -- Connaught Place -- and back, plus out for dinner with friends of Ajay's in the evening. The very late evening, of course. Delhi is a huge, confusing city, but no one would think of using a map. You drive around lost, stopping men on bicycles or rickshaw-wallahs every few minutes to ask for ... read more
a nearby house ...
auto-rickshaw
entrance way

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 13th 2005

The big news today is that I was awakend last night by the earthquake in Afghanistan. I understand it was 6.8. I woke up with a start and felt the bed shaking. My heart was pounding and I really wondered what was happening. But I quickly assumed that it was an earthquake. I experienced them regularly when living in Tokyo, so my earthquake experience came in handy last night! I only have one picture today because I was recharging the batteries for my camera today. I took this one of my new good friend Varada. She is pretending to cry, but can't stop laughing. She is such a wonderful girl, full of fun, and she likes to perform for people. I am really enjoying our relationship, and everyday I teach her new things. (She is teaching ... read more

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 11th 2005

Today is Sunday in Delhi, and traffic is not as bad as on the other days of the week, so Ajay and I drove to see Raj Ghat. It is quite far from South Delhi, where I am staying, but it only took about 20 minutes to drive there. Raj Ghat is probably the site I most wanted to visit in Delhi. It is the memorial to Mahatma Gandhi, the place where he was cremated. The simple, tasteful memorial, a granite platform and eternal flame, is surrounded by a huge, peaceful park. Today it was very quiet there, very few people. Maybe it was because we went so late, at almost 4 p.m. You have to remove your shoes before entering the inner courtyard, and once inside there is a feeling of quiet respect. I found ... read more
the main entrance
Ajay
Raj Ghat

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 10th 2005

I just spent 30 minutes writing five-six paragraphs about the challenges of life in Delhi and a sudden power cut erased what I wrote! A perfect example of what I was writing about. I am still very happy to be here, and am even considering moving here, but boy oh boy life is challenging here. Intense smog, power cuts, hordes of people everywhere, scary insects, animals and water, beggars -- including tiny children gripping your car door so you can't shut it -- traffic chaos, a huge temperature drop every night (from 28 in the day down to 7 at night, and no heating) and my personal pet peeve: Indians eat lunch at 2 or 3 and supper at 9, 10, 11 and even midnight. My system is sooo out of whack. I was so hungry ... read more
India Gate
Kailash and I
Mohini and I

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 10th 2005

Just a quick entry here. Linda's still feeling poorly so we've got some antibiotics (huge blue pills- they look like Viagra!) ("How would you know?" asks Linda beside me). We've been taking it easy in Delhi these last few days, staying in Sunder Nagar, a quiet gated suburb just south east of the centre. We went to see 'the dances of India', a Delhi institution now in it's 30th year, featuring seven different dances from around the country- performed in a village-hall-type building to musical accompaniment. A bit of shopping here, and a lot of pampering there, to make up for our time in Amritsar- highlight for me was dinner in the Imperial hotel last night; the best burger I've ever had. I can understand the whole worshipping cows thing if they taste this good. Talking ... read more

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 9th 2005

PART 1 -- NEW DELHI ANKUNFT........ yo leudde, was soll man sagen - sind am fruehen morgen des 5. 12. aus einem der reichsten laender der welt in eines der aermsten geknallt worden ( haben's ja so gewollt!). sind das 3. mal in indien aber es ist jedesmal derselbe knaller. delhi erwacht und wir schneiden mit unserm gelbschwarzen prepaid taxi durch den dunst, staub und rauch (hauptbestandteile der hiesigen luft- wuerde man das gruenrotschwarzgraue zeug, das zwischen boden und 300 metern hoehe herumnebelt, filtern, koennte man sicher eine tolle asphaltstrasse von spitzbergen bis palermo bauen!) richtung norddelhi in die tibetische enklave, nach majnu ka tilla. sehr nettes guesthouse mit blick auf den yamuna, den fluss ( bei uns sehen fluesse etwas anders aus, in bezug was da so alles im , am, neben dem wasser kreucht ... read more
wongdhen house
new tibetan camp, majnu.k.t.
new tibetan camp, majnu.k.t.

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 8th 2005

Hi Everyone! Apologies in advance for this update, the keyboard sticks like crazy! Yesterday was pretty interesting. I checked out of the HK Choudhary guest house - the smell was really getting on my nerves. I read the Delhi times, picked up my train ticket, and met Suno at 10am. We went first to see a huge Hindu temple. No pictures were allowed in the temple, and we had to pass through a metal detector and take off our shoes before entering. Inside, Suno explained the many Hindu gods to me and we strolled through the huge building. Later, outside, I posed by a huge elephant statue for a picture and wandered through a children's play area and large garden. Then we went to a tourist office to see about a new hotel room. I was ... read more
B'hai Temple

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 8th 2005

I am writing this at some ungodly hour of the morning because I can't sleep. So much for getting over jet lag in one day! I had one great day where I felt well, and now I am tired and grumpy. My friend Mychael, who comes here often, says India has a way of causing exhilaration followed by despair. I think I know what he means. He advised not getting affected too much by either, easy to say. My friend Lynne, who has travelled a lot, said basically I will feel like crap for two weeks, so don't worry about it! I just went out on the balcony and saw South Delhi at dawn. Pink air and a flock of black birds rising from the trees. Beautiful. The colour of the air here is enchanting, and ... read more
my yoga mat
roof top view
Siri Fort

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 7th 2005

It is my second day in Delhi and so far I have not experienced any of the "horrors" people have warned me about. I am having a very soft landing, I guess. I think I am very lucky -- well, that's what Ajay keeps telling me! I have so far stayed close to home, which is an area of South Delhi. It must be one of the nicest areas in Delhi. Ajay and his family live in something they call a "colony" -- dusty streets of four-story apartment blocks, most of them quite gracious. Today we walked in a park thick with foliage and teeming with peacocks. We couldn't venture too far in, though, because we went at dusk and we might have come across some very large snakes, apparently. Imagine -- huge dangerous snakes living ... read more

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi December 6th 2005

I have been in Delhi less than 24 hours and already I feel at home. Arrived very late Monday night after a 21 hour journey. The entire trip went very smoothly, and I even made two friends (see pictures) during the journey. Only problem is the jet lag. I feel a bit weird, almost dizzy, and very tired. I am staying with my friend Ajay and his family in south Delhi. Also in the flat are his parents, his brother Vijay, sister-in-law Meera and their daughter Varada, who is seven. Today we sat on their very large marble terrace under the sun. It was about 25 C. Very beautiful in spite of the smog, which has a slightly acrid smell. A man came to the flat with many beautiful shawls and suit fabric. I bought three ... read more
Jyotsna
shopping
Ajay




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