How many people present the one fingered salute out the window as their plane departs the Indian tarmac, vowing never to set foot on those shores again? Then what percentage of that group end up doing the exact opposite, finding themselves retracing footsteps despite those earlier promises? On our previous foray some eight years ago, barely 10 minutes into the streets of Mumbai and I already had a dot on the forehead, floral garlands around the neck and a bunch of "holy" men blessing me whilst demanding a payoff. I was ignorant that spiritual salvation came at a financial cost. A half hour later and following relentless harassment, all I wanted to do was kill Indians. India was simultaneously the most annoying, frustrating, debilitating yet fascinating nation on this planet. Love it or hate it, back
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