The airport in Leh makes Ladakh an easily accessible place. But the only way to get a sense of how isolated and remote this region is is to travel there overland. It is less than 500km from Manali but the bus journey takes 2 days, stopping overnight in Keylong, presumably because it is unsafe to travel the winding mountain road in the dark. Keylong is the last town before you reach Leh, and in the 15 hours of travel between the two points, the only signs of human habitation are the occaisional makeshift hamlets serving food to travellers, shepherds camps, work crews and, particularly once you enter Jammu and Kashmir state, military bases. The vast mountains, valleys and plateaus are not only almost entirely void of human life, but that of plants and animals too. The
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