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Published: February 22nd 2014
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January 18
th2014
“
Somewhere deep inside, something's got a hold on you And it's pushing me aside, see it stretch on forever” Better be home soon – Crowded House
When thinking about unexplored (by me) Gujarat over many years, I always imagined visiting famous Jain temples, not the least one place I had heard about from travelers involving climbing many steps. Palitana was that place and so as we approached I was full of expectation.
The omens were good – straight into town we hit a
lassi stall (the daily
lassi has become a bit of a habit in Gujarat). Then the fruit
walla next to it tells us about where to find a hotel. We go there. But...... it is still being built! Something wrong with the local intelligence here. After several rides up and down and around the main market, we eventually find a decent guest house.
That evening is for exploring the market, including vibrant coloured local embroidered and mirror-work dresses. The place feels good, and the expectation mounts for the climb up to Mount Shatrunjaya in the morning.
In the morning, after early morning
chai and yoga
and some repairs to the bike, we set off to the start of the climb (about 4 kms from the centre of town).
Palitana has the world’s largest temple complex (like a small city) with more than 900 exquisitely carved marble temples atop Mount Shatrunjaya (with 2,000 more on surrounding hills) and is the most sacred pilgrimage place for Jains. They were built by generations of over a period of 900 years, from the 11th century onwards. There are 3,800 stone steps to climb to the temple complex from Palitana city floor.
Jainism is a religious offshoot from Hinduism with some similarities to Bhuddism but much older). It teaches a path of non-violence towards all living beings; and spiritual independence and equality between all forms of life. Jains believe that non-violence and self-control are the means by which they can obtain liberation. Ascetic devotees battle with passions and bodily pleasures and try very hard to never kill any living thing. For long periods of time Jainism was the state religion of certain Indian kingdoms. There are less than 5 million Jains in India (in a population of 1.3 billion).
The temple complex is very impressive. Many pilgrims
have come, but none will stay overnight, nor the priests and officials, as this place is the preserve of gods only and only gods can spend their nights here. We wander around for several hours and still do not get to every temple.
On the way back down, my top and
gumpcha have come loose from my pack and fallen off. I have a little mind-play about letting go, which goes well. Then a procession of carried chairs (people who pay not to climb but be carried up and down the mountain) goes past and I spy my distinctive Odissa
gumpcha draped over one of the cross beams. But not my top – later further down it is also offered to me (and I have no idea how this worked – perhaps a play for some
backsheesh? Whatever..) I am glad to have both back).
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BIg Fella
non-member comment
Time is a relative thing as we get older
Truly amazing - such a beautiful place. I love how the next generation commits to adding what has been done before to make something that can not be done alone. And thus how the current generation knows there will be more following to contribute. The commitment across time !!!