Fulsome Fort and Empty Spaces

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Chittaurgarh

February 17^th 2004



“..I've been told there's a sucker born everyday, but I wonder who?...

Maybe the one who doesn't realise there's a thousand shades of grey,

'cause I know that's true....”

Rosy and Grey – Lowest of the Low



There is just a rush when you get back on the road and set off for what you always know is going to be another adventure. I had heard about Chittor but never really even stopped to explore what was there – then a friend in Pushkar mentioned how it was this amazing place with a big fort.

Chittor was the main centre of Rajput power from the 7^th to the 16^th century. It has seen many dynasties and been seriously attacked at least three times. Each time jauhar was performed by women and their children (suicidal self-immolation on a funeral pyre) in defiance of capture by the enemy.

Gladys (the wonder bike) is purring along, the morning is gorgeous, the road is good, and I am just full of quiet expectation of who knows what exactly.

The trip is just 200 kms and takes me a leisurely 5 hours with stops. As I approach Chittor, the fort edifice comes into view and yes....... it is a BIG fort.

After a reconnaissance through the city and up to the fort plateau, I find a guest house back in town – it's one of those simple and clean places with a certain ambiance (and this is not meant to be sarcastic – it really does have a nice feel). To arrive in a new place and hit upon a good room is all part of the feel of travel fulfilment. Ah... to then put up a line and make the room your own satisfies my lust for some order and familiarity.

I wander through the market and as always happens, make some nice connections: first with two brothers (Ashok and Deepak) who run a pan and chocolate stall; and then with Prelad who is has a gold and silver workshop. The latter is through an old man who simply waves me down and indicates with hand signage that a chillum is on offer. I shrug “why not” and follow him to Prelad's. After an hour sitting and sharing a chillum and good company, I promise to come again at 5 the next day.

I get up early and reach the fort by 7am. It's cold riding up the approach road escarpment. Once there, the sun is shining through and I wander around as if in a dream through various ruins and ornate rock temples. I am seeing as if in a void, silent, detached from what is happening around me.

Five hours later and after having ridden around the whole area and stopped in places devoid of anyone but offering yet another magic view of the escarpment or a temple or just a peaceful kund or ghats where women are washing clothes in the sun, I go back to my room and rest. Loads of time for just taking it easy and then a saunter through town for a tali.

I reconnect with Ashok and Deepak, take a shave (which Ashok insists on paying for), and eventually find myself at Prelad's workshop. He also has an Enfield and is keen to try mine (Gladys being a modern Enfield as against his 20 year old model). We take a little ride through the backstreets and find a number of his favourite coffee stalls where he shouts me. Not a lot of English from him or Hindi from me but we manage to strike up conversation and understanding. Frequently he asks “I am fine?” meaning of course “are you feeling OK?” Nice guy.

I hardly ever take notice of a TV if there is one in my room..... but for some reason (and probably because I quickly have found the English Movie station) I find myself watching 'As Good as it Gets' (Jack Nicholson) which is actually quite entertaining. I then wander out and become a street food junkie for the night (omelette, chat, and a quite horrible fried cheese roll).

All good – next morning up at 6 and I find the only chai stall already open. I help the guy make his poa and I come back later to have some for breakfast before taking off for the ride back to Pushkar.

A nice couple of days.

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Photos

Under the canopy of the submerged Shiva temple
Pure water flowing from the mountainside

7 storey temple
Gobsmacking stone work and stair design within this gorgeous tower

The frantic pace in Chittor city
This is the main drag from the city to the fort approach

Comments

[Big Fella]

There is nothing wrong with feeling glad to be alive
Great temple with wonderful photos showing its majesty. Sounds like a trip that was blithe and peaceful. One just to take in.

[PDB]

Beautiful!
Such a well captured shot! - PD.

[PDB]

Fantastic pictures!
You have captured the glory of the fort very well Paul! Thanks for sharing them. Good luck to and Gladys as you move ahead in your journey :) - PD.

[Marguerite]

Another stunning moment in time!!!
Luving the journey with you Paul. The amazing architecture always makes me wonder why we think we are so clever in this day and age..........those structures - now that's clever :). Travel hugs