Down, but not Out in Georgia Pt. 1: Border of Pain

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Akhaltsikhe, Georgia

June 29th 2014

Note: Publication of the 'Down, but not Out' series of blogs was purposefully delayed until the saga was over.... for reasons that will become apparent. The preparation of the blogs meanwhile was a blessed distraction from the stress of the whole affair.



You go to the city to see the law. Upon arrival outside the building, there is a guard who says “You may not pass without permission”, you notice that the door is open, but closed enough for you to not see anything (the law). You point out that you can easily go into the building, and the guard agrees. Rather than be disagreeable, however, you decide to wait until you have permission.You wait for many years, and when you're an old, shriveled wreck, you get yourself to ask: “During all the years I've waited here, no-one else has tried to pass in to see the law, why is this?”, and the guard answers: “It is true that no-one else has passed here, that is because this door was always meant solely for you, but now, it is closed forever”. He then procceeds to close the door and calmly walk away.
Paraphrase of Kafka's Before the Law



“The law is an ass”
George Chapman, Revenge for Honour



Nurofen: the brand name of a range of pain-relief medication marketed and sold in the UK, Europe, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.
Ibuprofen: an anti-inflammatory drug used for relieving, helping with fever and reducing inflammation.
Both in their “PLUS” forms are available, without doctor's prescription, from most Pharmacies (Apothekas) in Australia.

Codeine is a banned substance ('narcotic') in Georgia under Section 262, pt (1) of the Georgian Criminal Code.





I have had a fairly successful day of hitching rides from Kars in Turkey (see previous blog). My last ride from a small town called Hanak, is with a Turkish guy named Sirhan. He was going to take me all the way to my destination... Tbilisi. Sirhan seems quite upbeat about being on an adventure (he is an amateur archaeologist and this is his annual holiday visiting Georgia), and we both enjoy and appreciate the gorgeous scenery as we approach the border post.

We arrive at the Georgian border at 3 pm local time.

Then......

After clearing the Turkish border gate, Sirhan submits his passport and licence to the guy at the Georgian border gate window. But the licence is 'broken' (i.e. in two pieces) and the Georgian border Police say therefore he is 'unlicenced' and cannot enter Georgia. But they point to me and say “You are OK... you can go in”.

I get out of the car, pissed off at missing my ride to Tbilisi (still at least 3 hours away and a considerable distance) and concerned for Sirhan. I walk to the Passport Control and Customs Hall. I do notice a sign at the left of the queues that are in Georgian and Turkish only.... and assume it's the usual stuff about the legal limits for what you can bring into Georgia and maybe about some illicit substances etc. I don't think twice about this as I have no illicit substances or goods …... do I?

After clearing the luggage scan, a young Customs officer asks me politely “Do you have any medicines?”. Well, “Yes”. I am motioned into a side room and I get out my first aid kit and show him the strip of 8 Nurofen Plus and 10 Buprofen Plus tablets that I have 'just in case' for pain and/or inflammation. Both were bought at a Pharmacy in Australia (non-prescription common day use 'drugs'). Note: I am not searched, my luggage is not searched; I have simply offered an honest response and cooperatively shown the officer what I have.

I am asked to give him my passport and told to sit outside. Something is said (he has some English) about these things not being allowed in Georgia. OK... I assume, then, that they will either go and check and realise how benign my 'drugs' and the quantity I have are OR confiscate them, and let me go. One hour later.... nothing.... I go to the office and ask “What's going on?” …. not much English but more about how these drugs contain narcotics and are not allowed in Georgia. I decide to go back and sit and wait and not make a fuss....

Two hours later (5 pm) and I am feeling a bit tetchy. I again go ask what is going on? Anna (another Customs officer with some English) tries to explain it's not up to them, it is now a Police matter. I try and ask one of the many Police hovering around, all looking overweight and important, usually with a mobile phone plastered to their ears, …. “What is happening?”.... no English and no response...

Eventually Anna brings a newly arrived Police guy to me (who I later learn to know as Tengo, his nickname for his real name of Tengiv) and explains that I am going to be interviewed; that I am going to be taken to the next town and a translator will be called to explain everything; that I will be asked questions. OK... something is going to happen at least. But now I lose hope that I am just going to be given back my passport, have my medicines confiscated, and allowed to proceed to Tbilisi.

Three hours later (6 pm)....... still sitting waiting.... as too is Tengo on the bench next to me. I later learn from Tengo that there are four full time Police officers assigned to this issue just at this one border crossing of processing people 'caught' bringing in medical 'drugs', and that on a daily basis there are at least 2 or 3 Iranian tourists who try to bring in their personal 'drug' medications. I am also told that the very same 'drugs' can be bought in Georgia (!) but only with a doctor's prescription obtained in Georgia. So, I surmise, better not to get a headache in Georgia unless you have the time and money to go see a doctor each time you do. The thought does cross my mind that the Georgian medical profession has set itself up nicely for a little money spinner here: by getting the government to stop anyone having what are freely available and simple enough medications in other countries, who try to bring them to Georgia and self-medicate without seeing them (and paying for the service) first. Cynical wart that I am.

Four hours later (7 pm) and I have had it, despite trying to meditate (as against medicate), taking a nap, breathing deeply, reminding myself not to react, and applying some humour to my mind about this story and the great blog I might write on it all. I get up and again go to the Customs office (each time I go I notice various people running around holding my passport and the 'drugs' or looking at a scanned copy of my passport on their computers..... it does appear that I am the 'business' of the day). I start ranting about being an Australian Citizen and that I have rights, and wanting to speak the Australian Embassy (well, couldn't think of a better line at the time so...). They again tell me it's a Police matter ….. they motion me to the Police standing around outside (they are doing a lot of standing around in between talking on their mobiles and looking very serious and important). I go to one... no English..... But whether by coincidence or because of the fuss I am now making, this time I get some action and am given a form to sign (in Georgian of course so I am a bit wary and get Anna to translate its contents as best she can. One of the officers seems to understand the joke when I say “For all I know I could be signing my agreement to be taken out and shot”). This is apparently just part of Custom's paperwork (which I later discover is 5 pages long.... their report on this major incident) to ascertain that I agree that my 'drugs' were found and taken and so on.....

Four and a half hours later (7.30 pm) and Tengo motions me to get my bags and come..... I am to get my last free ride of the day to the town of Akhaltsikhe for the Police Interview. Well at least I have made up some of my lost ride with Sirhan towards Tbilisi. Tengo is quite friendly during the trip and takes interest in my traveling experiences, specially wanting to see pictures of India. I find this madly out of sync with our respective roles in this saga, but in any case hand him my card with my travel blog address so that he can have a look. Later I realise this was possibly not a great idea, but OK if I delay publishing any blogs on the current saga until I am well clear of Georgia.

Six hours later (9 pm) and Tengo is still having trouble getting the official Translator to attend. He says I can go to the 24 hr supermarket next door (my passport is still with him) and get some food. She will be coming at 9.30 pm.

Seven hours later (10 pm) and Nino arrives (the Translator) and we start: first some explanation about the law... and about what is going to happen...... How if my 'drugs' are found to have more than 0.2 gm codeine or buprenothine content, then I will have to have a legal hearing etc.... The laboratory analysis will take two days to ascertain.... then maybe 10 days total for the hearing to complete..... that meanwhile I will be free to travel within Georgia (but the hearing will require me to be in Akhaltsikhe), but I cannot leave the country (I am assured that if I try I will be stopped at every border who have been alerted).

Then …. a statement is prepared, and translated back to me by Nino, and signed. I am taken downstairs for finger printing, urine sample (“Tengo, couldn't you have said before you allowed me to use the toilet upstairs just 10 minutes ago?”), mug shots (just like in the movies – front and side with the height measure chart backdrop), and.... my arms are inspected for track marks. Now I feel like a criminal and get a bit emotional.

Eight and a half hours later (11.30 pm) and it's all done.... and my urine is clean...... and I get my passport back...... and Nino has arranged a great little home-stay in town for me at 20 lari a night (about 10 euros).

Nine hours later (12 pm) and I am dead tired and snug in my lodgings and wondering …. “What just happened, was it real?” And... “What is going to happen?”. It's been a long day.

So what? Has 'Midnight Express' moved from Turkey up the road to Georgia?

Welcome to Georgia........So.....shoot me!

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Photos

The signage I passed - in Turkish and Georgian only... not noted
OK, the drugs are in generic language but I did not even think that Australian 'over-the-counter' pain killers were on the wanted list anywhere

Ancient Georgian courtship dance
Performed at the Georgian border with mobile phones as props

Last Tengo in Akhaltsikhe
At the Police Station after all the processing - I am handed back my passport

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Your urine is clean
Wow what a bunch of hoopla over medication not drugs. Good thing you didn't have anything they could get really excited about. All part of the adventure. Keep those stories coming.