Mountains and Rivers and a Smelly Pool.

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Day 8 Georgia. Saturday 17th Sept.

Mountains and Rivers and a Smelly Pool.



Another lie-in till 7 today. I’d say Claire is spoiling me but I booked all the trips!!

Best move on eh.

We met our guide Gorba and our driver at Europe Square as well as our fellow travellers for the day; a Pole, an English, a Russian and an Indian guy who has lived in Uk but now lives in Berlin. Multicultural or what!

Our ride for the day was a 4x4 Mitsubishi and definitely the coolest car at every stop we have made. Gorba has regaled us with interesting stories and facts all day and has been really good. Our driver has been somwhere between Too Fast Too Furious and Mr Sedate from yesterday. I haven’t prayed but it’s been on my mind.

The trip was to Kazhegi and Truso valley but we have stopped at a lot of other interesting places too. At lots of points we have all been involved in decisions on what to do next and Gorba has drawn us all pictures as he is a published illustrator too. It was supposed to be one per couple but I managed to persuade him to do one for me too. In ten years time it will be worth 300€ apparently….

So our first stop was a very scenic reservoir with accompanying overpriced toilet and souvenir shops. The view was fabulous and I reckon even Claire could get a decent picture from there. Plus there were teo gorgeous kittens.

We then stopped at Ananuri monastery that overlooks the reservoir and, of course, climbed the tower, up the ‘destroyed’ stairs. I’m not sure what the actual definition of destroyed is here but when something is usable I’m not sure destroyed is very apt.

Anyway, the view from the top was crap as it was all enclosed and a bus full of tourists decided fo come up when we were trying to get down. Luckily there were some open vantage points to look through, and take photographs, while we were waiting for them to fart around.

We went inside the church too but it was a bit dull as usual. I suppose at least they don’t spend lots of money like Catholics and concentrate on their religion instead.

Our next stop was a brief one, to photograph the black and white rivers meeting. Online photographs show the contrast being more pronounced and the colours apparently depend on the weather but the rivers were definitely different colours before they met. I’m guessing the Tories would send both rivers to Rwanda.

We had decided between us that we would have a meal later rather than at 11am so we stopped off at a supermarketbakery for snacks. Claire had a cheesy thing and I had a sort of vegetable pasty; both good.

And on we go. A quick note first though: if you come to Georgia (and you really should) don’t drive. You’ll have to clean your pants multiple times a day and no-one wants to have to go through that.

Next stop, Georgian Pammukale. I have tried to go to Pammukale twice….and failed…. The first time it was the wrong time of year and there was no transport, the second time I was too ill and stuck in one place for a few days. So this much smaller version will have to do for now.

Mineral water streams down from the mountains and the minerals in it turn the rocks a different colour, orange in this case. It looks really slippery but isn’t and you can walk across some of it. There is a constant flow of the fresh water (not the stuff that has been walked in) and you can try fresh spring water. Claire was so excited that she emptied out what was left in her water bottle…and then tasted the mineral filled water that tasted of, well, sick I think. I don’t think she drank much….

On we go! I think today holds the record so far for number of places visited in one day. Next stop Gergeti monastery which was full of tourists and wedding guests….yes someone had got married on the grass outside so there were people posing for photos everywhere. And pouty posing too. Bleeuurrgghh.

Super monastery, super views, crap tourists. We also stopped at the bottom of the hill so we could take pictures of the monastery complex. Nearly forgot, the main road to here had collapsed during Covid times (I’m not sure if the two things are related) so we had to go off-road which means all those wedding guests had had to go off-road on the bumpiest road we have been on so far! On the way back our driver had a phone call and so navigated it one-handed!

I wondered if driving while on the phone is illegal here as they all seemed to do it but he lowered his phone later when a cop car went past so I guess it must be. So that’s one driving law they have! Even if they ignore it….

We move on. Next stop Truso valley where we go off-road for quite a while before stopping at a campsite ready for a 20 minute hike to a lake. First we have to go up though of course. Just for a change though we go up some steps made out of tyres that have no handrail. It’s hard work but I pass the time reading the tyre makes…Michelin, Continental, Hankook, Toyo, Pirelli etc. Maybe I even made the Michelin one!

We then walked along the river taking photos of even more amazing views - photographers, this really is a country for you. We came to the lake. Now, are there any set rules on when a pond becomes a lake? Size, depth, how it is filled, how it runs off….do any of those have anything to do with it? I would say this was a pond as it was quite small but I’m not sure why you’re waffling on about this as the most important thing is that the minerals cause the pond to bubble like an Icelandic geyser. Oh, and it stinks. There is definitely sulphur in there that’s for sure. It doesn’t erupt by the way and is really cold; and no-one knows how deep it is. A pretty interesting pond then…or lake….

In the distance was South Ossieta and our guide told us some stories about the region and his dislike of Putin. He wonders who will be next after Ukraine. He stopped when our Russian passenger came back. This is the second Russian we have chatted to on this trip and both have been really nice. You can’t judge a person because of their leader….I mean imagine if people abroad thought we were all like Bozo or Thicky Lizzy!! I’ll have nightmares now.

Next note: There were long, long queues of lorries waiting to get into Russia. At the moment it takes about three days to get through as they only let twenty trucks through at a time. At the worst times it can take a week. A bit like Dover then since Brexit.

Next stop the Arts of the Friendship monument which is a huge semi-circle stone monument decorated inside with fantasic, colourful pictures depicting the friendship between Georgia and Russia. There were tourists all over the place, even some in high heels all dressed up for a night out, and it was impossible to get shots without some gonky tourist, or Claire, in it. The scenery was spectacular yet again though!

Last stop was food and a none-tourist restaurant with really good food. We had ordered our khinkhali in advance so they were pretty much ready when we got there. The lobio was great, Claire enjoyed her aubergines with walnuts and the salad was really good too. It hasn’t been that difficult to find vegan food anywhere. There’s not much choice of course but there is usally something I can have.

The traffic wasn’t too bad and we arrived back earlier than expected after another busy but great day. Tomorrow we are off to another country, Armenia, so lots to look forward to! Plus we can lie-in till, wait for it, EIGHT am!!

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