Yunnan 2 - From Laos to Vietnam via China: Episode 2

---

This is the 2nd ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travels.

All the ‘episodes’ describe our journey from our arrival in Vientiane (capital of Laos) in mid March 2010, through to our intention to 'arrive' in Hanoi (capital of Vietnam) at end April. This ‘episode’ describes our journey from our arrival in JingHong (Yunnan) to our departure to LiJiang (in the north of Yunnan).


As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

Revisiting JingHong

Episode 1 described our travels from Vientiane through Laos to China, and into the provincial capital of the Xishuangbanna region of Yunnan - Jing Hong. We also described how we departed Jing Hong the same day and ventured into the backblocks of Yunnan - to Meng Hun, Meng Hai and Meng Lian (where we ended episode 1).

We decided not to 'explore' more of the countryside of Yunnan as it was very dusty and really didn't show the (apparent) greenery of the scenery. Rather, we'd retrace our steps to Jing Hong.

As we'd bought a sim card in Meng Hun - but were unable to get it 'registered' to call Australia, we decided to return to Jing Hong via Meng Hun and take a squizz at the Sunday market - reputed to attract many different ethnic minorities from the surrounding area.

On our first visit to Meng Hun, a local male was quite cheerful and appeared to want to be our 'guide' in the town. With the town centre on a cross roads, there wasn't much chance we were going to get lost. But we enjoyed his conviviality. On our return, he 'found' us quite quickly (actually we were at a cafe eating at the time). His cheeriness was contagious, and though we couldn't converse other than in sign language (and our trusty little dictionary) we enjoyed ourselves. He decided he wanted to give me (then later Judy) a neck and scalp massage. We were somewhat confused about his intentions, but the efforts were greatly appreciated.

After dinner, he took us to the local schoolyard where about 50 teenage girls were practicing a dance routine. The routine appeared much like the formal 'exhibitions' we see on TV of Chinese youth 'exhibiting' at special occasions. But, what interested us was the intense dedication by each participant to get every step/move absolutely correct. That dedication was really an eye-opener. The 'instructor' said words generally between the 'practices', but didn't appear to need to motivate, yell, cajole, etc. It was so different to what we knew of the 'efforts' of Australian youth.

After another 'noisy' night, we managed to get a refund on the sim card before heading off to the market. We'll 'discuss' this below, but clearly, without their 'traditional' clothes as 'markers' we had no way of knowing whether any minority groups were in attendance.

The night noise was (1) young males letting off steam with grog & karioke (at full blast) and later (2) the effect of really heavy rain from a major thunderstorm on iron roofs.

The 'cast iron bowl' policy (ie. the state only allows resources for one child), the male population is about 60%. This not only means women can call the shots (and in the cities they do - often marrying several times to 'better' their financial situation), but many men have to face the prospect of never having 'family. So, grog & karioke offers an 'outlet'.

We'd now travelled between Meng Hun and Meng Hai several times - always on the main highway. This time, on our return to Meng Hai (and unknown to us when we hopped aboard), the bus we 'caught' was a 'local' bus. It took a most circuitous route that took almost twice as long. It picked up/dropped off passengers along the way. Each stop resulted in a major joyous greeting/discussion amongst the locals. Through hand signals and a few Chinese word contributions, we were able to mildly particiapte. What great fun. Along the way we also noted that after the rain, every tractor was ploughing the 'paddy' fields preparing for the next rice harvest. As well, literally dozens of men were 'harvesting' the local sugar cane crop - BY HAND.

The route from Meng Hai to Jing Hong traversed a mountain range. Our initial trip revealed a dry dusty landscape with trees hardly looking tropical. After the rain, the landscape had miraculously transformed into a wonderful greenscape. We found the difference surprisingly quite substantial.

We eventually got to Jing Hong, and found accommodation. Jing Hong is a really pretty city, with large mature trees and big Golden Cane palms lining the streets. The streetscape is reasonably clean, and the people friendly. On the foreshore of the Mekong, the locals are investing in a Southbank style 'community' place with paths and gardens, sound stages, and restaurants overlooking the river. The area appears very progrssive.

We'd heard there was an English speaking cafe, so headed there. After the 'book n hand' conversations, it was comforting to converse in our mother tongue. They served Yuhhan coffee (Italian style) and it was almost a culture shock for us. Judy decided to venture forward and ordered a BLT with fries. Ahhh, she exclaimed There's a bit of sanity in this place!!!.

After discussing options for our travels north, we decided to fly to Lijiang rather than take buses - 28 hours versus 1 hour is - for us - a no brainer.

The following day we decided to travel to a village south on the Mekong River.

The Mekong

We missed the 'regular' bus to Gan Laba, so decided to take a tuk-tuk (for the hour trip). Gan Laba sits astride the Mekong River in a green valley. In the 30km (or so) to Gan Laba, we went past open flood plain, through a narrow gorge, and into the (widish) valley that constituted the Gan Laba area. Even in drought and being so low, we can see that this is a very powerful river.

But, this day was not a 'drought' day. As soon as we arrived, the heavens opened. We found refuge and waited it out. Once the sun poked through, we went for a wander. We were told that Gan Laba is (almost) exclusively a Dai (minority culture) village. The traditional houses are all elevated off the ground (animals & tractors live underneath) and are built with solid slabs of wood, with quite steep shingled rooves. Interestingly, the outer walls lean out (at the top). Why? We couldn't find out.

We also learnt another 'story' about the reason why we were unable to travel from Thailand to Jing Hong by the Mekong - apparently the Chinese military has closed off travel. They have decided the current low water level is an ideal opportunity to blow up rock obstacles. We learned several years ago that the military did this to the Yangtse. Apparantly, by removing rock 'obstacles', the large ships will get to travel all year round taking merchandise to the Thailand marketplace.

To Lijiang

With a few hours before the flight to Lijiang, Judy enjoyed a full-body massage by a blind young male. These is a centre for blinded people to learn then offer their skills for recompense. The massage centre was an example. I wasn't there, but the mind does boggle as to what/where the hands went!!! Judy said it was great and all 'above board'.

The airline taking us to Lijiang was certainly more efficient than we're used to. Everyone on board? YES Then it might be 15 mins early, so what, lets go now!. So, we did.

While there was much cloud, there were enough breaks such that we could see the landscape was particularly rugged. We circled over Lijiang (the Chinese circle over the airport area up/down, unlike in Oz where the plane gains height/descends in a straight line) and wondered where we were to land as there were massive ridges everywhere. Eventually the pilot 'shot' for the runway - between two massive ridgelines. For us, it seemed one strong wind and we'd be chewing up dust on the hillside!

The airport is some 30k from Lijiang, and so a bus into town. Along the route we were dumbstruck at the size of a mountain overtowering the area. It was sheer rock screaming for the sky. Known in English as Mt Satseto, but referred to in the tourism literature as Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it is some 5600m high. It not only towers over Lijiang, it dominates the whole landscape.

Lijiang has been on the 'trade route' for centuries, and we read that at one time served as the seat for Kublai Khan. Since, it was a provincial centre for successive Naxi warlords (Naxi being a Tibetan/Sino ethnic group). The Han chinese have really only had a presence for a bit over half a century.

Lijiang was devastated by an earthquake in 1996, and the majority of building losses were the 'modern' concrete versions. The Naxi buildings (stone & timber) largely remained intact. The city has been rebuilt with wide streets, gardens, and (for China) good landscaping. Frankly, so far Lijiang is one of the nicer cities in China we've visited - maybe equal with Guilin for streetscapes, space, relative cleanliness, and 'attractions'.

Unlike the more southern area of Yunnan (Jing Hong, etc), Lijiang is cold. We'd gone from high 20's to low teens!! We've had to buy some warm clothing!!! It is Spring in China and we were delighted to see fruit trees in full blossom. The Cherry trees were obviously significant (with a grand daughter named Sakura - meaning cherry blossom). But, similarly, the Azaleas, Camelias and Rhododendruns are also delightful - many with wonderful perfumes.

The 'old' town Naxi area of Lijiang has been included on the World Heritage list, and made into a pedestrianised tourist area. Despite the hordes of Chinese tourists, it is really delightful. Arbours of Wisteria herald pathways aside streams, blossom trees framing laneways to goodness knows where, and all paved in a rough hewn local stone. To us, while many buildings have been refurbished for tourism, but tucked away in little hidden pockets are buildings exhibiting time worn existence (with minimal maintenance).

North of Lijiang is a 'traditional' Naxi village that we visited. There are no concrete blocks. The houses are built on a wooden pole frame, and veneered in hewn rock (base) and mud brick above, and clay tile roofs. Not only is the 'design' attractive, many appear to have been constantly used for centuries. Judy got 'cornered' by a Naxi woman to visit her home. And, though they could not speak the same language, with much signing, food eating, 'discussion' about womens things, a good time was had by all.

Our food exploits

We described in our 'episode 1' of our 'venture' into an evening meal at Meg Hun - (briefly) we 'chose' vegetables, and the cook served these into a great meal.

After a morning of steamed buns, we opted for the dominant fare: noodle soup (with chopsticks!!!!). Since, we've come to really enjoy the varieties of soups on offer. Wide flat noodles, thin ones, and dumplings. Each vendor has a shopfront, but in lower Yunnan, people eat the food on street tables. In Lijiang, it's too cold, so most have an 'inside' table option. On one occasion, we had a silky smooth, very flavoursome (probably egg) noodle. For us it was really impressive.

Trying to order dinner meals became more of a chore than enjoyment due to language. Luckily, an English speaker in Jing Hong wrote down 'instructions' for us - Please, three plates of food, one meat, two vegetables - no soup. We like our food quite spicy. Please can you choose something nice for us. This has (largely) served us well.

We ventured into a restaurant on our first night in Lijiang and were given a picture menu. For one dish, we 'ordered' what we thought was a stir fry meat dish.... but!!! What came out was a little cast iron wok with a naptha flame underneath (ie. chinese sizzle). The dish comprised some 80%!t(MISSING)hree types of chilli with heaps of black and Sichuan pepper and loads of salt!!! The other 20%!w(MISSING)as ginger, garlic, spring onions, a firm mushroom and twice cooked chicken. WOW what a blast!!! It was great. We were not sure which was the hottest - the chilli heat or the temperature heat. Nevertheless, we both agreed it was hotter departing the next day!

Being high in the mountains, the Naxi are wheat growers (too cold for rice), and so much of the diet relates around bread (type) foods. Our first 'taste' was a bread that was prepared roti style and cooked tandoori style. It had all the wonderful spices (chilli, Sichuan pepper) capsicum, etc., as flavouring and was (for us) a great feast.

Another 'bread' was more like a compressed bread cake with herbs and peanuts - neither sweet nor savoury (good with beer we found). Another was like a light japati cooked over coals and then filled with sweet and hot flavours.

These are consumed as snacks or lunch. A 'traditional' Naxi lunch is a clay pot with cooked grain in the base and sliced meats, egg & vegetables on top. A lid goes on top and this is then placed over coals till all is thoroughly cooked.

We're noticing that traditional' food presentations are not sweet. Actually, sweet (like American sweet) isn't a major 'attraction here. No doubt the young will seek the western sweets and sugar consumption will rise.

Judy was amazed to find that here in Lijiang, yoghurt is widely consumed. YES she exclaimed as she sunk a tub.

We haven't laboured on beer, but the local stuff in each town has been good (very thirst quenching) and inexpensive .

Ethnic minorities

In a belt across northern Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, we encountered various ethnic minority groups. Especially in the more rural areas, these ethnic minorities still preferred to wear their customary clothes. In and around their village, the clothes were dirty and scruffy - reflecting hard work, etc. But, when they were at a custome event or went to 'town', they wore their finest clothes. For women, this (generally) involves elaborate head coverings, embroidered bodices, and detailed skirts. Typically, the clothes wore made out of hemp and dyed with indigo (a local shrub).

We'd learnt that the 'root' area for these ethnic minorities was Yunnan, but due to conflicts in the 17th century onwards, they were 'pushed' (or forced) southwards. There is more history to this...

Recent archeological studies have shown that the Asian 'cradle' of civilisation occurred about 8000 years ago in the Esan area of the Mekong (north-eastern Thailand and north-western Laos). From there, the Asian groupings developed 'outwards'. We've also learnt that the Mongul influenced han had come to dominate the productive flatlands, and marginalised other groupings to the less productive hillsades, For example, apparently the H!Mong became an 'entity' in (now) Central China around Xi'An, but have been 'pushed' into Yunnan and northern SE Asia by the Han over the past 300 years or so. The bai were dominant around the Shanghai area, but now are found in the highlands of Yunnan (near Tibet).

Given this, we were still expecting to see similar ethnic minority clothing on the women from the rural villages. Aside from the Han (the dominant Chinese from the north), there are apparently some 32 different ethnic minority groups in Yunnan - all with villages in and around Jing Hong.

Interestingly, we've rarely seen a woman in traditional clothing. Those women from a particular ethnic group that has a particular style of head dress (ie. scarf, or wrap, etc.) still covered their heads in a similar way, but used western oriented fabric. Those women that traditionally wore leg coverings 9some are quite elaborate), still wore leggings, but instead used lycra pants.

We inquired further and found that while the minority groups have long been marginalised, often used as slaves by Han, etc., they found their 'integrity' in their culture. We've been advised that the ethnic minority groups did not adopt a written language (of their own), and 'culture' was handed down as oral history. Given this, the 'integrity' of a Naxi or Akha, etc., was how much of the 'history' they could memorise. Apparently, those with good memories often became revered and were given special status to 'hold' the group's history - a status abit like a priest, but they also had priests for their religious 'needs'.

We've learnt that with the (recent) advent of roads into the mountainous areas, access to cities has become easier. And, with electricity and television, the young have preferred to model themselves on the western images than their own 'culture'. Along with this, the young also see more economic opportunities in the cities than as village workers. Similarly, the Chinese gov't had imposed Mandarin as the school language, so the young can also learn information from TV (and now internet) that subverses the culture of their own language (not only does each group have its own language, but this fact meant that interaction between groups was limited).

Essentially, with their own language, their own 'history'/culture, and their own clothing 'character', a group member had a 'standing' in that group. Now, with Mandarin, western clothing, tv, western images, internet, city living, etc., wearing 'traditional clothing is viewed as a demeaning status; only at celebrations is the clothing now worn. The saddest part of this is that the oral history is not being passed on. It's only a matter of time before these people will be 'integrated' into the 'Chinese' culture, and their centuries old culture will be a thing of the past.

Churlishly, the Chinese gov't , pays ethnic minorities to wear their traditional clothes in public places where tourists throng; not western tourists, rather, Chinese nationals doing the packaged tour bit.

Further North

Tomorrow (2 April) we head further north. We will probably be away from a pc for a while, so we'll 'publish' this and 'see you again soon.

Cheers


- - - -


😊


ps




This journey is presented as a 5 part series (saga?). You can move to the next 'episode' by scrolling back to the top and 'clicking' on NEXT.

Alternatively, link to ...


http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Yunnan/blog-488253-21.html

😊

---

Photos

Dynasty House - Meng Lian
The Red Brigade apparently didn't get out this far, as this aged building still exists.

Dynastic House - Meng Lian
From inside (looking from ceremonial room)

The 'man' in Meng Hun
This very cheerful and friendly man decided to befriend us.

Jing Hong Streetscape
The Jing Hong city streets are really well treed - a refreshing change from 'typical' Asian cities.

Jing Hong riverfront
Aside the Mekong are great cafe's

Irony of China
It's not just China, but 'planning' decisions here can sometimes go really awry. Here is one persons desire to offer a fountain for public benefit - but placed it smack bang on the 'exit/entry' of the pedestrian crossing!!

Mekong River - Jing Hong
The Mekong here is (relatively) shallow and wide

Mekong River - south of Jing Hong
Though blurry (we were on a bus), the pic shows a much narrowere Mekong 'valley)

Rugged Terrain
The ruggedness of the landscape is phenomenal.

Lijiang - Mt Satseto
Lijiang is tucked behind the first (dark) ridge under Mt Satseto.

Lijiang (& Mt Satseto)
Main street Lijiang.

Lijiang - Cherry Blossom
Judy & Sakura

'Entry' to 'old' town
Visually stunning scenes everywhere.

'Old' town & Mt Satseto
The roofs are grey, reflecting local clay.

Lijiang 'old' town aspect
The streets are higgeldy-piggeldy, the buildings sit almost on top of each other - but there is much 'character'.

Lijiang 'old' town as
Here, a well is divided into 3 pools. First (behind the wall) is drinking water, second, is for washing vegetables (and other 'clean' stuff) and third is for washing clothes (and other 'dirty' stuff).

Lijiang garden
A garden near the 'old' town.

Mt Satseto dominates
A view from the 'edge' of the Naxi village of BaiSha.

Judy & Naxi locals
Judy was 'discovered' by the Naxi lady (on the right with vege's) and another wanted to be 'in'.

BaiCha scene
Each Naxi 'home' has a courtyard, this being an example

Typical Naxi village street
A street in Baisha.