Yunnan 1 - From Laos to Vietnam via China: 'episode' 1

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This is the 1st ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travels.

All the ‘episodes’ describe our journey from our arrival in Vientiane (capital of Laos) in mid March 2010, through to our intention to 'arrive' in Hanoi (capital of Vietnam) at end April. This ‘episode’ describes our journey north through Laos and into Yunnan, China.


As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

A change of plan

In this 'blog', we write of our travel enjoyment/s within Laos - this largely being of our travel overland in Laos in order to ‘enter’ Yunnan, China (at Mohan).

We had originally planned to arrive in Chiang Mai, spend a couple of days relaxing there, before heading northwards to Chiang Saen to take the fast boat up the Mekong to Jinghong (Yunnan). We always knew this was risky as March is the tail end of the dry season. We learnt a fortnight before leaving that the Mekong River is not only ‘enduring’ the impact of the driest dry for over 50 years, but that China had built a dam upstream and now no water was flowing at all. "Boat no go", we were told. We’d had a backup plan to go overland across northern Laos. When AirAsia changed the Chiang Mai flight from 10:40am to 6:00am, we weren’t prepared to leave our hotel at 3:00am merely to get a flight. The alternative was to head to Vientiane (at a ‘reasonable’ time).

Vientiane to Vang Vieng

We left Oz on the 16th March and headed for KL - spending the night at a great little hotel right next to KL Central (rail station). A wonderful Turkish meal, and a good sleep, and we were back to the airport for a flight to Vientiane.

Like KL, we spent an 'overnight' in Vientiane before taking a public bus to Vang Vieng. While Vientiane is laid back (read very slow), we'd spent time there some years ago and so were 'prepared' for the quietness. A few BeerLao & a good meal and we also were settling 'into' the Lao 'culture'.

The next morning saw us heading to the local bus station to get a bus to Vang Vieng. When just about at the bus station, I wanted to take a photo - but found our trusty Canon had karked itself. We were beside a dry goods market and after much hand signs, eventually found the camera section. The sort of camera I'd used was not available - auto plus field and aperture control - so I had to resort to a little Samsung (5X) auto. For what it is, it is doing a good job (gee I miss user control!). When we agreed on a price, I counted the money out and the sales person who then gave the Kip to the 'boss'. What a kerfuffle followed. The 'boss' went off and came back asserting that 100,000Kip was missing (US$12). After some carry on, with the police arriving, and eventually someone with English comprehension, I agreed to 'split' at 50,000Kip rather than 'push' the matter. Lesson learned? Next time, the money will be handed over when the goods are in my hand.

We'd heard that Vang Vieng is party town central - a full-on destination for 20somethings - with a focus on rafting/kayaking/tubing down a river strewn with bars, flying foxes, etc. But, Vang Vieng is also situated in a beautiful karst 'outcrop' - one of the several 'notable' scenic karst places in SE Asia.

Karst is soluble rock (typically limestone) and water erosion (over time) results in steep 'mountains' with caves (often with wonderful stalagmites/stalagtites) and mountain 'towers' erupting from the landscape. We have karst landscapes in Oz, but not with such dramatic visuals. The other 'notable' karst places on the tourist 'trail' are HaLong Bay (in Vietnam) and the River Li in China (near Guilin). To date, we consider the karst at River Li is by far the best. That is not to downgrade Vang Vieng. It's beauty is in its proximity to the township and that sunsets etc. can really be enjoyed while looking at the massive jutting peaks.

After we'd settled into a lovely place, we found that there are 2 'ends' to Vang Vieng. There's the party central end; with constant party antics & noise in the evening/night. Then there is the quieter end with more expensive accommodation (and hence older, quieter folk) where we stayed. For us, the ambience was really enjoyable.

We hired a motorbike the next day and went bush (west actually) further into the karst country. Along the way we headed up side tracks to find some really beatiful places. At one, the creek had dried up, leaving sandy parts with a damp surface. On these, we found literally hundreds of butterflies - and so many species. It was great to stand on the sand and let the butterflies hover all around us.

Perhaps the nicest aspect for us of Vang Vieng was that each evening we sat at the accommodation restaurant high above the river bank sipping beer and being mesmerised by the red sunset behind the massive karst scenery.

Vang Vieng to Luang Nam Tha

The trip from Vang Vieng to Luang Nam Tha is some 450km. However, the 'quality' of the road meant the bus speed is very slow and it is a 2 day trip. Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang was uneventful - except that the road is a goat track and traverses some pretty steep mountainous terrain. The drought had made the landscape tinder dry and when the slash'n'burn farmers lit a fire on some mountainside, it would traverse huge areas as a wildfire. As a consequence, the scenery was largely a blackened landscape. We got into Luang Prabang at meal time, secured accommodation and found a restaurant. We'd spent time in Luang Prababng last year, so knew the layout. The restaurant was on our 'list' (being booked out last year). It was a French place, that served Lao food with French panache. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

The next day had us heading off to Luang Nam Tha (via Oudomxay). The road to Oudomxay was much like the previous day's road, except the landscape wasn't 'charcoaled'. But, from Oudomxay to LNT was a nightmare. We'd been on the road the previous year, and while extremely twisty and only partially sealed (potholes everywhere), this year it was under repair by the Chinese.

The Chinese 'aid' to Laos is to make their freight transport more efficient. In this case, they were resurfacing the road. First they ripped up all the bitumen (for the whole length). Then they dumped truckloads of rocks on the road so that labourers could use the rock to make roadside gutters (the rain, when it comes, comes bucketing down). The 'finish' height is about 200mm above the 'old' level. Then, they fill the 'space' with roadbase and use traffic to compress. So, for some 6 hours, we were subjected to hot dry winds, and loads of dust. We were not particularly happy chappies when we arrived at LNT.

As indicated, the Chinese 'aid' is to make their truck routes more efficient. Here, we noted that all the expertise and labour was Chinese. From engineers to labourers - all Chinese. If the 'aid' was in part to 'help' Laos, one would have thought the Chinese would have helped Laos by taking on Laotians and training them on the project!!

After a shower, and a great meal of local Lao food, we slept really well. Next day had us on a motorbike again, off to Muang Sing (a frontier town if ever there were one). This route goes through the Nam Tha NP area, and last year it was was a really pretty ride. The drought had taken its toll, and the landscape wasn't a patch on the previous year. Oh, well!!

The morning had started with fog, and along the way we came across an horrific bus crash; a local bus coming down one of the very steep hills had careered into an upcoming truck. There were few survivors. A salient lesson for us.

Luang Nam

Tha to Jinghong


We left LMT on Wednesday and travelled to Jinghong. The journey was OK - all (Chinese built) bitumen. At the border (Boten in Laos), we found the Laos departure to be chaotic. On the 'other' side (at Mohan), the Chinese were so orderly (and efficient).

After the border, we began travelling on great roads. Gee, the Chinese Go'vt has invested heavily building roads around this region that are infinately better than anything we have in country Australia. Given the Australian attitude to the Chinese, it was embarrassing really!

The 'original' road hugged the incredibly steep mountainous terrain. Essentially, one would need to twist and turn for (say) 10 miles to travel 1 mile (as the crow flies). The new highway is a series of tunnels (some up to 10 km long) through the mountains, and each connected by massive bridges between each mountain. One 'bridgeway' was 11km long; the 'piers' holding up the road were massive, at one stage I thought maybe 250+ metres (above the valley floor). Only rarely did the road actually 'sit' on natural ground.

We'd decided to visit Yunnan as the reports suggested it was a tropical landscape. Yes, but no. Miles and miles of rubber plantations. Very few native plants to be seen. On the flat areas between the steep mountains, every patch of dirt was used for extremely intensive small scale agriculture.

After arriving at Jinghong, we found how to get cash (see below), we headed into the backblocks to get to a rural town (Meng Hun) that was supposed to allow us to visit a minorities market at Xiding.

Interesting & challenging are the two words that most describe our experiences as we ventured away from the urban 'centre'.

Jinghong to the rural heartland

We tried an ATM, and upon the card being rejected, inquired inside. The 'manager' took control and through sign language we learnt that we had to go to another bank. We were placed into a taxi and taken to the other bank. There, the same card rejection. It turned out that we needed to go to another bank, not branch. This 'story' of mismatch has been repeated often in our few days here. Patience is a virtue they say - for me, well only so much!!!!

We also tried to get a sim card to call Oz, but!!!! When we explained that we wanted a sim card to call Oz, everyone we tried said that we had to go to another place. As it turns out, we can buy a sim card to call within China, but need authorisation to get the IDD 'lock' taken off so we can call Oz. It seems the China gov't doesn't want locals conversing wih the world. To date, we have yet to get an IDD 'unlocked' sim card. We are hoping that when we get to a bigger city, we'll get lucky.

We tracked our way to the correct bus station (there are three at Jinghong) and eventually got a bus for Meng Hun. There, we were left in a rural village. And, we soon discovered by the stares, few had ever seen a westerner. To our fortune, we stumbled upon a gruff man who had a heart of gold. We'd entered his shop to inquire about a sim card. Once the sale was completed, he ushered us to lodgings, and to our request for a nice place to eat, got his son to take us to a 'traditional' Chinese restaurant. There we were confronted with the young chef-owner asking us (in Chinese) what we'd like. And, at the same time he took us to what appeared the store room. Judy twigged first that we had to choose 'our' variety of vegetables for dinner. We were shown a table and provided warm (green) tea. After travelling all day we needed a beer. We scratched out a request and were given a room temp bottle of beer - No, they didn't have cold beer. But, at least it was thirst quenching.

We were amazed at the servings. The capsicum & onion was spicy stir fried (or, as Judy said to die for), and the bean sprouts came with Julienned bamboo shoots and Sichuan pepper - another to die for meal! Along with rice and cabbage soup, all our fears of food nightmares disappeared.

We inquired about the bus to Xiding and no one knew of it (bad info, it seems). Next am, with the supposed time for bus departure passing without a bus arriving, and no way of getting to the Xiding market in time, we quickly changed plans and decided to venture to Meng Lian. This meant a minivan to Meng Hai (and breakfast) before a 4 hour journey.

We already knew that there is no prospect of Kellogs toast n coffee in China, but here in Yunnan there is no prospect of western food at all. Thus, breakfast was dumplings, fruit and green tea.

The bus travelled through some interesting scenery - and as we travelled further west, the landscape got drier and drier. In part, along the mountain 'high' country, we felt as though we were in Quingai province (a bit like Afganistan - with no vegetation, and a rocky, scree 'scenery'). In the valleys, however, the slopes were terraced for rice. Some of these terraces went up over 500m (vertical). Just amazing!!!.

Meng Hun is a dusty 'outpost', but with friendly people. There is a 'new' town (but some 30 years old) and an 'old' town (but with new buildings).

Explaining this, the 'new' town is Chinese 'administrational'. That is, functional, concrete block buildings, poor design, streets based on a 'grid' pattern, and with no aesthetic.

The 'old' town is adjacent and where the non-Han (dominant Chinese) community live. The minority groups (Tibeto-Burmese in origin) comprise some 60%!o(MISSING)f the population and are animist/Buddhists. The 'old' town is centered on the temple, and comprises traditionally styled chinese architecture - tiled roofs with curved tiles and ceramic pointers at each roof corner. The streets are higgeldy-piggeldy, and the whole area has 'character'. This area was where the regional chief lived (with some 800 years of continued occupation). The 700 yo Chief's 'house' still exists as a museum. The temples are of considerable age as well. However, the locals have obviously become wealthy and any semblance of aged homes has ceased to exist. In their place are the Chinese equivalent to McMansions - instead of a single story timber home with a backyard, now there are 2 story (and 3 story) concrete block mansions with balconies, etc., covering nearly all the land.

An interesting juxtaposition.

I noted above the 'attitude' in Australia that we are 'advanced' and China is less advanced. What rot. In terms of economic productivity and financial embeddedness, maybe. But not in living life. Here we are in a rural backwater, about as far as one can get from Beijing and they are implementing transport solutions that are light years ahead of Australia.

Explaining this... There must be a local coal mine in the area (with poor quality coal) as it is used by local factories and food vendors to heat their woks. Given this, we assume the local administration decided that air pollution was already a worry and (an increasing) transport pollution needed to be addressed. Their 'solution'? Electric vehicles. Except for petrol powered motorbikes coming in from the outlying areas, all bike transport in town is by electric scooter (same size as a 120cc Honda). Also, goods that would have been carted around on a tuk-tuk motorcycle are done with an electric tuk-tuk (without the tuk-tuk sound). And, the local taxi is like an oversized golf cart (wide enough for 3 Chinese) with 3 rows of benches. And, the local bus is also an electric covered vehicle with room for up to 16 people. These electric vehicles use the lead-acid battery, and aside from the non-pollution aspect, it makes for a really quiet place.

One of the additional reasons we chose Yunnan was that it is the 'centre' for ethnic minorities in China. As we understand it, following the 'spread' of Asian 'civilisation' northwards from eastern Thailand (Esan), various cultural groups developed; Yai, H!Mong, Dai, Wa, etc. We understand that the H!Mong, for example, were centred around Xi'an (in central China) before being driven south by the Han (an offshoot of the Mongul). Eventually, the Han dominated the fertile lowlands, and the Tibetan-Burmese-Tai 'chinese' occupied an area from Yunnan through to northern SE Asia. We'd assumed that like SE Asia, the minority groups in backwater villages would retain their 'ethnicity'; wear traditional clothes, live traditional lifestyles, etc. So far, it appears this may not be the case. Either, the Chinese 'administration' has fostered integration (by what means we'd never know), or they themselves have preferred to become 'urbanised' in clothing, occupation, etc. We'll be going to some rural villages later this week to look further.

We are finding the weather very dry. There is a very long drought here, and all the ground is so dry, the air so dusty, and the heat quite stifling. We'd read that rain should have fallen so that rice plantings would have begun. Sadly, not to date.

Tomorrow we head back towards Jinghong and then head north towards the Tibetan highlands.

Till then.

Cheers

J&B

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ps


This journey is presented as a 5 part series (saga?). You can move to the next 'episode' by scrolling back to the top and 'clicking' on NEXT.


Alternatively, link to ...

http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Yunnan/blog-485912.html

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Photos

SE Asia welcome
In Laos, this Morning Glory 'look alike' was for us most welcoming.

Kuala Lumpur
KL is a case of East successfully meeting west

Vang Vieng - on arrival
After arriving at Vang Vieng, we enjoyed the scenery (and serenity) over an ale [or 2]

Venturing west of Vang Vieng into karst country
This happens to be the 'main' road for many villages west of Vang Vieng. It is typical of roads away from the bitumen the 'arterials' (of which there are few.

Up 'Butterfly' creek
From a side track, we found this place - full of butterflies.

Vang Vieng - 2nd night
From the deck at Elephant Crossing Hotel.

The Nam Ou
While the River (Nam) Ou is incredibly low, note the smog from slash'n'burn 'agriculture. The Nam Ou is about 20k north of Luang Prabang. Last year (in April) we travelled up the Nam Ou by boat for 2 days. Not possible at this time.

Roadside 'scene' Laos
This typifies the Loatian 'landscape'.

Crossing the border
From Laos to China at the Mohan border checkpoint.

On the highway in China
On the way to Meng Lian (west of Jing Hong) we traversed dry mountain tops, and lovely river/creek gorges.

Rural scene
This is typical of the rural 'flat' areas in Xishuangbanna region of (SE) Yunnan.

1287 building
This was (apparently) erected in 1287, and was the 'home' (or castle) for the provincial chief. Then, Meng Lian was The centre of power. This building 'housed' a dynasty of 28 generations.

Entry to the local (Meng Lian) temple
For the local Meng Lian community, this 200 yr+ temple holds great significance.

Electric bus
This battery (electric) powered bus is 'normal' for the larger towns in western Yunnan. Unlike the west, where door openings are managed by the driver, here, people power is used to open the door.

Electric bike
Every where in Meng Lian, this battery (electric) scooter dominates.