Yunnan 3 - From Laos to Vietnam via China: Episode 3

---

This is the 3rd ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travels.

All the ‘episodes’ describe our journey from our arrival in Vientiane (capital of Laos) in mid March 2010, through to our intention to 'arrive' in Hanoi (capital of Vietnam) at end April. This ‘episode’ describes our journey north from LiJiang to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, then onto HaBa, and through to Gyeltang before returning to LiJiang (all in Yunnan, China).


As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

Please also note that the photo's don't track with the text. The Tiger leaping Gorge photos dominate.

North from LiJiang - an overview

Episode 1 described our travels from Vientiane through Laos to China, and into the provincial capital of the Xishuangbanna region of Yunnan - Jing Hong. We also described how we departed Jing Hong the same day and ventured into the backblocks of Yunnan - to Meng Hun, Meng Hai and Meng Lian (where we ended episode 1).

Episode 2 dealt with our arrival by air to LiJiang (capital of the LiJiang region of Yunnan) and our exploits in and around LiJiang.

On April 2nd, we boarded a bus to head further north.

We'd planned to 'do' Tiger Leaping Gorge, then head up to the Tibetan city of Gyeltang, and then perhaps head to Deqin. Not knowing what lay before us, we took each step as one at a time. As this 'episode' reveals, one step at a time aptly describes our journey.

The North

One aspect of China we've found good is the public bus system. Unlike SE Asia where booking a ticket can be a real headache, it's easy and very straightforward here. And, while some of the buses have seen many miles, we've not encountered a slack driver. Unlike Vietnam, speed is actively discouraged. We have yet to feel unsafe at all.

We took the bus from LiJiang to Quaitou (pronounced Chaitou) from where we were to commence our Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. From LiJiang, the bus ground its way up over a steep range before making the long descent into the next valley. This 'valley' was the Yangzte River - a special river for several reasons. From the Tibetan plateau, all the major rivers cascade down to the plains in a straight line (sort of), the Mekong, the Salween, and the Irrawaddy. The Yangzte River does not flow as a straight line. From Tibet into northern Yunnan, it 'bumps' into a major mountain range and is 'directed' north for a considerable distance before it again 'bumps' into another mountain range (at the border of Sichuan Province) wherein it is 'directed' south towards Dali (in central Yunnan) before it again 'bumps' into another massive mountain range to be 'directed' eastwards. Socially, the Chinese place major importance on the Yangtze because of the lifegiving nature of the constant flow of water, and the agricultural productivity the water provides such a large area of mainland China. While all this wasn't to the forefront of our 'adventures', it does describe in part the awe the Chinese have for this river.

After being dropped off the bus Qiaotou (it was heading elsewhere), and fathoming our way to a 'nominated' Guest House for information, we were still somewhat in the dark. To them, everything was known, to us, it appeared all murky - where exactly did the trail start, what indicators should we look for, etc. etc.. We'd prepared ourselves somewhat - inasmuch as we secured an A4 sized rough sketch of the trek route and locations of Guest Houses along the way.

So, with some trepidation, we headed off up a sealed road looking for a path leading to the 'trail'. Fortunately, a local Naxi (Naxi is the minority group of the area, and Naxi is pronounced Nashi) who was wanting us to hire his horse stayed with us as we walked and guided us along the route. Without his help we may well have got horribly lost (we met others who didn't have our fortune and did, in fact, get quite lost).

The 'trek' itself is 16 kilometres, but the route also tracks up and down ridges such that it is probably twice as long in distance.

We decided to take it easy on the first day - travelling only 6 kilometres. But, that 6 km's took us up some 400m in elevation. With our packs on our backs and in warm sunshine, it wasn't long before we'd broken out in a sweat. Though dry and dusty, the surface of the path itself was not an issue. Rather, it was the up and down along the route - all the while rising up the gorge entry slope.

At one stage Judy felt challenged by the steepness, and with the local Naxi person 'tracking' with us with his horse, we decided that Judy ought try riding the horse for the remainder of the path. These horses are more like ponies (in stature) and had a blanket for a saddle. Judy hopped on, and after a very short distance, decided this was inappropriate. She couldn't get to stay upright, and was afraid of falling off the horse and down the very steep side of the gorge.

We plodded on and arrived at our 'nominated' site - the Naxi Guest House. While it had taken us around 3 hours (fit young people do it in 2 we were told), we were happy to rest up. This GH was a joy - clean, the managers spoke English, and the other guests were convivial.

Even though the GH was 'only' 400m above where we'd started, the the gorge walls had increased in height incredibly. The GH 'faced' the 'walls', and it felt like we were looking at a sheer mountain wall. You'll perhaps get the idea from the pics.

The next day was to be challenging, another steep ascent - this time 500m in only 3 km. This section is known as 24 bends (denoting the 24 hairpin bends on the steepest part of the section). From there, the path descended about 200 over 4km. We decided to get our bags taken up 24 bends by horse. We figured that would ease the burden somewhat, and carrying a pack downhill didn't seem such a problem. While we weren't wrong, for us it was still hard yakka. The day had opened cloudy & cool and our ascent was with a bitingly cool wind. With our warm clothes, our bodies were hot but the exposed bits icily cold. Vegetation on the ascent was largely grasses and stunted shrubs.

At the 'summit' of our trek, we stood on a little rocky outcrop viewing the gorge below. WOW is about the only word that describes the sentiments. Not only for the view - which was absolutely stunning - but also that we'd made the way to the top of the ascent section (or so we thought). The Yangzte was some 1000m below us, while a massive river even here, below we could see it 'negotiating' huge boulders as if it were a brook. In front of us, the 'walls' of the gorge ascended up into the sky some further 4000m.

If ever one felt humbled by the sheer magnitude and power of nature, this was certainly it.

As we 'departed' to descend, we began to enter natural forest. We could make out the native pine trees, camellia's, azaleas, and rhododendron's, but the other species were new to us. Like all of China, we were astounded at the lack of bird life (and wildlife generally for that matter). For prolific fauna, Australia certainly takes some beating.

We'd figured that the descent would be easygoing. If it weren't for the fact that we'd go down some 100m, then up the same, etc., it probably would heve been easy. We kept reminding ourselves of the American trash saying No Pain, No Gain!

Like the day before, we were really happy to arrive at the Halfway Guest House. Again, we were able to relax and enjoy hospitality and conviviality (though our experience of this GH wasn't as embracing as the Naxi GH - which is not to say it wasn't good, rather, that Naxi was brilliant).

The following day was largely downhill (really), and at the 'end' of the trail, we decided to get a mini-van to Haba. This was an exercise in itself!

It is so hard to describe the scenery in words that adequately reflect the fact. We suppose 'awe-inspiring' probably sums it up best.

There are parts of the trek where one feels like a mountain goat on the side of a cliff. There are other parts that traverse gentler slopes where local 'hilltribe' people reside and eke out a living. Each of the Guest Houses were located in these areas. So, it wasn't entirely 'remote', but much was.

Along the Gorge, the Chinese Gov't had made a road near the river to 'service' the several 'communities'. Currently, the gov't is upgrading the road and their way of doing things is to do the whole section at once (not like Oz where incremental 'completions' mean only part may be 'rugged'. So, to get from the end of the trek to Haba meant going through some rugged roadspace. And, doing it in a mini-van along the remainder of the gorge was like going through a bombed out zone.

We eventually got out of the gorge 'bomb zone' and followed bitumen to Haba, and...

Haba to Gyeltang

The 'recommended' accommodation in Haba while clean was rugged - but there was neither better nor equal. The 'entry' was via a shopfront that was incredibly dishevelled (dusty, dirty, jumbled, etc). This led to a veranda from which access to the room was achieved.

As for dinner, we were faced with trepidation at the mere thought.

The proprieter indicated that dinner was to be up on the hill! Oh, well we thought we've experienced much in life, perhaps this will turn out OK.

As dinner was some time off, we went wandering around the local area. The Chinese Gov't has ensured that everyone has access via a concrete path (too narrow to be a road), and these 'path's connect dozens upon dozens of houses (here, each with their vege garden, stables, etc.). It was along these we ambled. Though we knew no Chinese to strike up a conversation, a ni hao and a wave generally brought great responses. At times, the other would try and strike up a conversation. With a phrasebook and much sign language, we'd all have a laugh.

We were taken up the hillside for dinner, via a path between terraced crops. There, several beach umbrella's had been erected into about 120cm square concrete 'tables' (sitting on upended concrete blocks. Around the tables were more concrete blocks (laying on their side) for 'seats'. There were already about 20 people there. On the tables were bowls of a home made candy (sugar coated popped wheat, etc.), and as we sat we were given (the ubiquotous) tea. To one side, the proprietor and others were cooking up a storm of food.

Beside the tables were the graves of ancestors. In Haba, today was Ching Ming Festival (or grave cleansing - blessing day). So, in this instance, several generations of relatives were gathered (with us) to 'celebrate' the ancestors. While the food was not memorable, the occasion certainly was.

Being tired from our walking adventure, we went to bed early. We also knew that the bus to Gyeltang left at 8am, so we wanted to be well prepared.

Judy awoke and exclaimed It's six thirty, reading from my watch. Here, daybreak is about 6:30 to 7:00, so the darkness wasn't a problem. We turned the hot water tap on for a shower, and returned to bed as the temp was decidedly cold. We'd learned that sometimes it took 5 minutes for the hot water to 'arrive' at the tap. After about 10 minutes and no hot water, we did our washing - complaining all the while that we'd been promised hot water!!! Only when dressing did I notice that Judy had read the watch upside down - it had really been 12:00!!!! Mmmmmm!!!!!!!!!

I think we snoozed the remaining hours, a cold shower had certainly changed our 'space'!!!

The local bus was certainly a spartan and rugged affair (this area is really back of the beyond). And, 2 westerners hopping on caused much conversation amongst the half dozen already aboard. We alighted at Baishuitai, as the area is reputed to be scenic. The hillsides are so steep here that the only way to 'crop' is by terracing. While this is the way all 'cropping' is done outside the river plains, the scale of terracing here was astonishing. We'd never seen terracing on the scale before. The crops were Broad Beans, Canola, and wheat, The patchwork effect of the colours across the landscape was most attractive.

The town is also famous for a limestone 'cascade' - an ooze of limestone infused water (like in a limestone cave) that spreads across a hill spur. The pictures we'd previously seen revealed limestone pools, etc. As we went to climb up the hill to take a look, a local person demanded 30 kwai pp 'entry'. Much to his considerable annoyance, we declined.

After wandering around the area taking photo's and generally enjoying the landscape, we headed for the bus shelter to await transport further north. At the shelter, we were approached by a local who spoke discernable English. We explained that we knew the local bus left at 2:30, but were hoping to pick up seats in a mini-van heading north. He explained that as it was a National Holiday (re: Ching Ming Festival), we'd probably not be successful. Oh, well, another long wait! Pity about the cold!!! He went off and came back after a few minutes saying that a driver might take us north. We accompanied him to find a Tibetan and his wife with a 4 WD preparing to 'hit the road'. After negotiating a price (same as the bus), we were soon travelling north in the comfort of a 4wd with Tibetan music AND WITH A HEATER!!!!

Scenically, the journey from Baishuitai to Gyeltang is by far the best route we'd taken in this Asian region (ie. Yunnan & SE Asia). It was simply stunning. Though life for the Tibetans in this region would undoubtedly be terribly hard due to the cold, the rugged landscape, and what appeared poor soils. Nevertheless, it was difficult not to be engaged with the huge areas of natural forest. As we ventured north, the native pines dripped with 'old mans beard' type mosses. At their bases were azalea's and rhododendron's - in flower. The pink flowers contrasted brightly to the sombre greens, tans, and greys all around.

We were really travelling through some steep terrain on this drive. The 4wd would descend into a valley (sort of) that was really the headwaters of some river, only to then ascend to a mountain pass. On each side (and all around) were snow covered mountains. This was cold country.

About half way, and on a pass of some 4300m, the driver decided on a toilet stop (whew!!!). While that was of no consequence, what Judy & I will remember is that just when the pink bits got exposed, down came a huge flurry of snow!!!

Near Gyeltang, we traversed a pass and the landscape changed from grey/tan/green to just brown. It was if we'd entered another geological region. The contrast couldn't have been more marked. The soil was dark grey, the grasses all around were dried beige. The vegetation - what little there was - was a stunted grey shrub. We didn't know it till later, but we'd entered Tibet. In fact, we'd travelled from a cropping region to a grazing region.

Gyeltang - Zhongdian - Shangri La

Gyeltang is the Tibetan name of this town. When the Commo army arrived in the 1950's they called it Zhongdian. Some 3 decades ago, with increasing western tourism into the town, some local brightspark decided to call the place Shangri La after the term used by James Hilton in his novel The Lost Horizon.

We've learnt that for the past 1500 or so years, the Tibetan community 'occupied' an area from northern Yunnan, western Sichuan, most of Qinghai, northern (mountainous) India, and Nepal. Apparently, the 'centre' of Tibetan culture was located where the ruling 'chief' resided, and this was not always where the Buddhist spiritual leader resided. But, where a 'ruling' chief set up shop in some place, it wasn't long before the Dalai Lama followed. We've learnt that successive Dalai Lama's have spent more time in Qinghai than all other areas (Lhasa included). Until the Commo's changed the name to Qinghai, the Tibetans referred to that area as Am No.

The current 'boundaries' are attributed to the British. We couldn't discover (on these travels) why the British decided to place administrative boundaries (which later became national boundaries) in the places they had. On a geographical scale, the Tibetan landscape is grazing. So, it seems odd to see Han Chinese trying to grow crops around Gyeltang - with apparent limited success. But, for the Tibetans, the socio-agricultural community is centred on the Yak, and all that that entails.

While currently in the Yunnan 'administrative' region of China, Gyeltang was the 'seat' of the 5th and 6th Dalai Lama. It had a monastry (Gompa, in Tibetan) equal to that currently in Lhasa, and after the Dalai Lama departed (to another centre), was a major site for Buddhist 'initiation'. Sadly, the Commo's completely destroyed the Monastry when they rampaged through the area in the 1950's. Ironically, the Buddhist community rebuilt the monastry (but not to the same scale), and the Chinese Gov't has placed a A$15 tax on anyone other than a monk from entering. To the local Chinese and Japanese tourists, this is not a problem. Judy & I thought that A$30 tax to the Chinese gov't (and not a cent to the Buddhist monks) was a bit rich.

Before actually arriving into Gyeltang, we travelled through a Tibetan town on the outskirts (about 5km away). There we observed the Tibetan house building style. The examples here are massive affairs, with several huge vertical wooden beams (about 500mm in diameter). The details on the wooden joinery panels in between are extremely elaborate. And, with massive rammed earth walls 'encasing' the wooden frame.

The 'issue' of large houses troubled us. We observe the 'lifestyle' of the local Tibetans - frugal - and that the dominant income is either servicing tourism or grazing, and we wonder how each family could afford such a sized dwelling. Perhaps more importantly, there is currently a massive 'housing' boom of these Tibetan houses and not much evidence of 'aged' stock (ie representing what was built a decade or more ago). We also noted that just outside the Tibet area (the Naxi and Lisu areas), while the houses are similarly modelled, even the best are modest in size. We have no grounds to so conclude, but given our perception that the income potential of the local Tibetans couldn't ever justify the massive size of the dwellings and that there is a massive housing boom underway, we deduced that there must be a government subsidy. Given that many Tibetans commute both ways between Gyeltang and Lhasa (the flights to Lhasa all depart Gyeltang), we asked ourselves "Is this the way the Chinese Gov't is signalling to Tibetans coming from the 'Tibet Autonomous Region' that life could be better if they adhered to the gov't line?".

The 4WD driver dropped us off at the 'old town' area - meaning traditional Tibetan architecture rather than the concrete block Han style. We found an OK Guest House, but like all others, without room heating. As we walked into the 'old town' (it's a pedestrianised precinct) we felt as if it was freezing. The cobbled laneways were exceedingly slippery - and with a recent shower all the more so. We organised ourselves and decided to go walkabout. We passed a 'western' cafe, and Judy exclaimed "I need some comfort food!". Following a mug of hot ginger tea, a BLT, and soothing Jazz music, we again ventured out. After a few hours sightseeing, we had to go back to the GH. The very core of our bodies felt frozen. So cold were we that one 4 inch doona under us and another on top was insufficient. We secured more and a couple of thick blankets and with our clothes on, tried to re-heat ourselves. After an hour or so, we'd thawed enough to venture out for dinner. Almost next door was a Tibetan cafe, and we tucked into Tibetan food: Yak HotPot, Yak Butter Tea, and Oatmeal dough portions. Mmmm!!! Interesting!!!

We couldn't believe that we slept for 12 hours. But, at 3300m, the altitude must have taken its toll.

We had originally toyed with the idea of travelling further north to Deqin - on the Mekong. This would have meant a 7 hour bus ride (one way) through more spectacular mountain country. We'd decided that we couldn't 'handle' the cold and would instead return to LiJiang. As we left the GH to go to the bus station, we were 'showered' with snow. Clearly, our feelings of 'freezing' were correct. The bus ride was challenging: though the bus would have had a heater, the driver chose not to engage. Above the driver was a read-out showing time AND temperature. We left with the inside of the bus at 1 celcius, and outside -1. As we travelled further in time and down in elevation, slowly the temperature rose. At one stage it was warmer outside than in. By the time we arrived in LiJiang, the outside temp was 19. We almost felt normal (except the breeze from the north took away any semblance of enjoyment).

A perception

When travelling north from LiJiang, we traversed much countryside that has endured little Han Chinese 'impact'. While the young ones prefer western clothes, the older folk still dress traditionally. We came across the 'minorities' of Tibetan, Lisu, Wu, Naxi and Mosuo. An interesting observation was of their dance and village 'identity'. The dance and music of the Lisu, especially, was an almost exact replication of what we have learnt is tribal American 'Red' Indian. The Mosuo have a totem pole at the 'entrance' to their village, which is so close in style and ideation to the American 'Red' Indian that it was scary.

We also felt the facial presentation of the Naxi (especially) and the Wu were very much like traditional South Amercian 'indians'.

We haven't searched the relevant information to deduce whether the hypothesis is true, but we felt that as Asian 'civilisation' occurred in the Mekong, and spread outwards (largely northwards), why couldn't these peoples cross the Arctic circle during the last ice age? Until we discover otherwise, we'll assume there are 'connections'.


- - - -

Tomorrow, we are headed south, to Dali (and hopefully a warmer clime).

Cheers




😊


ps



This journey is presented as a 5 part series (saga?).

You can move to the next 'episode' by scrolling back to the top and 'clicking' on NEXT.



Alternatively, link to ...


http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Yunnan/blog-490426.html

😊

---

Photos

A First View of the Yangtze valley
This shows the Yangzte and the agricultural 'plain' - before the Yangzte moves into 'gorge' territory.

Another of the Yangzte
Here is another view of the Yangzte as 'we' head towards gorge country

The Yangtze 'enters' the gorge
Here, the Yangzte enters steep topography 'into' the gorge.

Beginning the trek
With pack on back, off we went.

The Yangtze and the track
Here shows the Yangzte as it enters the gorge, and the track (on the left of the hillside) we took.

Trying to negotiate
Here, we try and negotiate a 'horse deal'.

Judy on horseback
Judy tried horseback, but it didn't work out.

Entering 'Naxi' village
Here, we 'arrive' at the first village on the side of the Yangtze (as it enters the gorge). This was a Naxi community, and for us, an end to the first day's trek.

The Naxi GH
This is the view from our 'room' at the Naxi Family Guest House.

Starting day 2
The topography here was (for us) bleak, with the 24 bends in front of us.

Near the summit of the trek
Here, we are within a couple of 'bends' from the highest point of the trek.

At the summit
Here, we are about to unload our packs from the trusty horse.

Tiger leaping Gorge - early stage
From 'our' summit, we could see the early stage of Tiger leaping Gorge.

After our trek 'summit' the vegetation changed
We were surprised at the marked change in vegetation after we'd reached the summit of the trek.

Looking down onto 'tiger leaping' rock
The story accompanying the name 'Tiger Leaping Gorge' is that a tiger was observed leaping onto this rock then leaping onto the bank on the other side. Clearly, a herculean jump!

Entering 'our' half way point
This scene depicts the half way point for us (about 8 km's as the crow flies), and our second night in the gorge area.

View of gorge 'walls' from Halfway GH
This view captures some of the ruggedness absent from other pics.

Start of day three.
While the track after half way was (generally) downhill, it traversed some challenging rockscapes.

The Yangzte departs the gorge
Just after this 'twist', the Yangzte is no longer 'bound' by huge gorge walls.