A short distance from the discovery of three million year old remains of "modern" humans (Olduvai Gorge), Ngorongoro Crater is a perfect site for the legendary 'garden of Eden'. In addition to being the home of approximately 25,000 large animals - wildebeest, buffalo, rhino, hippopotamus, lion, elephant, hyena, warthog, leopard and cheetah - Ngoronogoro is also the world's largest, unflooded, unbroken volcanic caldera. Following our departure from the Serengeti, we camped on the crater's edge, which at a height of approximately 1,200 metres above sea level, was very, very cold. To make matters worse, my stomach had turned on me and at about 11pm I had to clamber out of the tent and make my way through the cold, dark night to what passes for toilet facilities at the campsite. After successfully navigating my way through
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