OUTDSHOORN TO TSITSKAMMA NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH AFRICA (including Cango Caves)--Monday and Tuesday, March 3-4, 2014

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Oudtshoorn to Knysna (127 km or 77 miles)—Monday, March 3^rd. Rainy and overcast today.

The whole group left the park basically together as we needed to be at the Cango Caves at the same time for a tour there. Climbed straight up and then up some more for about 27 km. The Cango Caves were formed 20 million years ago by acidic ground water chemically eroding the limestone rock forming the rooms. The stalactites and stalagmites started growing in the rooms when the water drained away the same way they formed in Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico.

Here the opening was large enough that the caves were used for shelter by ancient peoples, but were only historically described in 1780 by Dutch settlers. We assembled in an entrance hall while tickets were purchased and then walk up an incline to the entrance to the caves. The tour guide took us along a lighted path through 6 large rooms. See: http://www.cango-caves.co.za/standard.php for additional information.

In the first room, there was a display of what early man may have looked like living in the cave. As we went from room to room, the guide shined her light on several different formations in each room to highlight them. Many had names and stories attached to them. Some were back lit with colored lights to bring out the details and although they were interesting, we didn’t think they compared to Carlsbad, Lookout Mountain, or Mammoth Caves in beauty and variety of forms. I think this was mainly because they were dry and dead instead of shiny, wet, and still growing. Many in our group didn’t agree with this opinion and thought them fantastic. For a 360-degree video of one of the main rooms, see https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203310247018272&set=vb.1273183320&type=3 and https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203310287099274&set=vb.1273183320&type=3

We drove back down the mountain the way we came and drove by several large farms. In one cattle ranch pasture were storks, Sacred Ibis, and ravens working the fields for insects. We drove past the Cango Wildlife Ranch, a Safari-Land sort of place, that some of our group stopped to see. Not our cup of tea, since you can do those kinds of tours at home.

We turned onto R-328 and drove through the town of Oudtshoorn where we admired the Victorian style homes with tin roofs. Drove past a large Military Base and followed signs for the N-12 to George. After about 30 kms, we started driving through farms growing hops on tall wires. Kind of misty, weather wise, through here. Crossed over Outeniqua Pass, which is 800 meters in height. At a traffic circle we turned toward Knysna on the N-2. Crossed over a good number of rivers along this route–almost all of them full.

We found a Micky D’s in the mall in the town of George and sent out and checked our e-mail. From here we began the decent to the coast with long, sharp, grades with lots of curves. Crossed into the town of Knysna via a long bridge over the tidal bay area. Continued to drive along the wetlands and then into the Woodbourne Caravan Park. We located a nice grassy spot that was level-ish under the trees as this area is the habitat of the Knysna Lourie (a parrot-like bird) which we wanted to spot.

At 6, we met the whole group at the waterfront for dinner at the Dry Dock Restaurant. Walked back to the parking lot to the RV through the interesting shops and then drove back through the seaside town to the Caravan Park for the night.

Knysna to Tsitsikamma (92 km or 56 miles)—Tuesday, March 4^th.

We started this morning looking in the trees for the Knysna Lourie and although we saw what we believe to be the birds in question, they didn’t get into the trees closest to us, so we didn’t get a picture. We then made our way through an upscale community along the water to look at long estuary and the wetlands around it. We saw the narrow mouth of the river going toward the Indian Ocean, several shore birds like a white breasted cormorant, and people digging in the damp sand for sea creatures (we think maybe mussels or clams???).

Driving along the N-2, we soon entered the Garden Route National Park. This park extends many miles along the coast and covers from the Tsitsikamma Mountains down to the sea. After crossing many bridges over deep gorges going down to the ocean, we drove down in one to go to Nature’s Valley. The road went straight down with very sharp curves! We encountered a small troop of vervet monkeys on and alongside of the road going down–and baboons going up. The road came down into a small valley with a stream going out to the Indian Ocean. It was a pretty drive with heather, and a red bush and a yellow bush in bloom. We ate lunch in the RV before we went exploring for a bit.

Over time the sand had formed a large dune, that blocked the direct route of the stream and formed sort of a “lake”, that one gentleman was fishing in. The beach was quite nice here overseen by a large antelope someone with talent had made out of driftwood. Saw a group of Cormorants hanging all over a dead tree in the “lake” and a few other shore birds.

After a bit, we got into the RV and headed back up the hill. About a km and ½ before hitting the highway, we stopped at a dairy farm stall and bought cheese, a big piece of carrot cake, and salami. There are a lot of these farm stalls in South Africa and many serve lunches as well as selling fresh stuff from their farms.

The Tsitsikamma National Park is between Nature's Valley and the mouth of the Storms River. We entered this park, and after a ways, we turned off the N-2 again, to stay in the Otter Caravan Park in the Storms River Rest Camp. Rock Dassies (sort of like big rabbits with a smile, but without the long ears) were all over the rocks when we entered camp. Cute critters! We parked with our side to the ocean–no beach just some rocks, and decorated the outside of the RV with a banner and the inside with a gold, purple, and green cut-out-mask garland for Mardi Gras.

We had planned to take a boat ride up Storms River so we stopped at the center to check on making a reservation, but found out that the boats were in being overhauled. From this camp, many of group went bungy jumping and some did a zipline tour across the Kruis River seeing waterfalls and pretty scenery. Watched the sun set over ocean before calling it a night.

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