KNYSNA PART I TWELVE OYSTERS, TWO SHOES It’s a rolling IMAX movie theater. I have a box seat, pent house, on a double-decker bus from Stellenbosch to Knysna (pronounced Nysna). The huge front window wraps around me like the clear convex wall of a bubble. Suspended ten feet above the road, it feels like a carpet ride. I am streaking through brightly lit farm country, descending mountain passes, snaking among thick green pine trees, passing long stretches of surf whitened beaches. This is the famous “Garden Route” which skirts the southern extremity of the African continent, along Indian Ocean. In the afternoon I roll into Knysna, The water glistens, and houses climb the hills that rise around me. To the south I see “the Heads,” two Gibraltar-like promontories that guard the narrow entrance into the Knysna
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