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Published: August 23rd 2006
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The Aga Khan Mausoleum
Looking toward the west from a felucca. And fertile land is only immediately next to the Nile River. I got the title for this blog entry from Lawrence of Arabia. And yes, it's hot, hotter, hottest here. Today, according to the hotel thermometer by the pool is was 48 degrees Celcius. That's 118 degrees Fahrenheit. But it's an incredibly dry heat, it's so unlike any weather I have every experienced before. It's as if I were standing in front of a fire, well two fires, one behind and one in front. And when the wind blows, it blows hot air, not a cooling breeze.
The hotel is of course air conditioned, and there is a pool, both of which I've taken advantage of. I don't know if there is a trick to staying cool here. I drink water as often as I breath. I wear long trousers, wear a hat with side flaps and I always have on SPF 45. I am as white as a ghost. Still heathly and able to function in this heat.
Yesterday, I visited the souq (market) here in Aswan. Mostly small stores for tourists selling souveniers. But also there were many locals buying fruit and vegetables, meat and household items. There was a lot of hassle as I walked past many
The Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan
Of Agatha Christie fame. I stayed at the less expensive and less photogenic New Cataract Hotel next door. storefronts. I come to expect it and always it is harmless and I take it all in good humour. I don't know if it's a good time to come in the low season here to Egypt. I mean, the shop keepers claim that there is little business because there are fewer tourists. I don't know if prices are higher to maintain their income, or lower to reflect less demand?
I also went to the Nubian Museum yesterday. This is a new museum that explains the Nubian culture from the paleolithic up until the present. Lot's of Pharonic influence from the north, but also a strong local tradition.
I have noticed here is that no one has any change. I wanted to buy some water but the shopkeeper couldn't make change from 5 Egyptian pounds ($1 Canadian), so I had to buy something else. The entry to the museum costs 35 Egyptian pounds, I gave the man a 50 bill but no change, so the entry coast me 50 Egyptian Pounds. The same again for the Calleche ride (horse and carriage). And again at another shop buying water.
This morning I took a Felucca ride on the Nile. A Felluca is a traditional wooden sail boat. No motor, we really sailed. For two hours we circled Elephantine Island, past the botanical gardens, past the Nubian villages and past of the deluxe super Nile Cruisers. This cost me considerably more than the initial agreed upon price because each deck hand and the owner all had to have their tip. I don't mind tipping, but I can't afford to support the entire population of upper Egypt.
I wonder which of those cruisers I will be on starting tomorrow? I will be away from the internet for a few days as I cruise downstream (north) from Aswan to Luxor. Along the way they take us to see the sites. I am looking forward to this.
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louise
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"The Sun's Anvil" title
What does "The sun's anvil" actually mean? I've been trying to find an answer to this beautiful expression used by the character Ali in the movie Lawrence of Arabia but just can't find an answer. Hope you can clear this up. Thanks. Louise