Life on the Nile

---

My four day three night cruise ended a couple of days ago. I was picked up by the travel agent representative, and we were taken sightseeing immediately. When I initially signed up for this cruise I didn't realy know what to expect, and I didn't realize that the entire time we would be on a fully guided tour. I usually avoid fully guided tours, and it's my first that lasts several days. My guide was very knowledgeable, but he did speak a little too much, too quickly. I don't think he knows how much information he tells me and how little I can absorb at one time. In fact, I had to review what he said each evening by reading my guidebook.

We started our trip by staying yet another day in Aswan. Once I saw the itinerary a couple of months ago, I knew what I should see in Aswan myself and what we'd be seeing with the guide. We started by going to the Unfinished Obelisk, the major granite quarry for the ancient Egyptians. The massive unfinished obelisk developed a major fracture while being quarried so it was abandoned. Then we were taken to the High Dam. Yes, it's big and Lake Nasser behind the dam stretches well beyond the horizon. Then we raced off to Philae Temple, a temple built only about 2400 years ago, during the Ptolomeic Period. Built for the goddess Isis. It was partially submerged due to the high dam. A UNESCO project saved it and moved it to higher dry ground. We needed a small boat to reach Philae Temple.

Then I was taken to my 5 star Nile Boat Cruiser. It's a new boat, AC, marble sinks, a TV and of course a Nile view. Every meal was a huge buffet style affair with too much food. I would guess and say the boat was only about 1/4 to 1/3 full. A large Italian group had their guide and I had my own English speaking guide. A guide to myself.

The next morning, I took another Felucca ride, this time with my guide to the Botanical Garden, an island in the middle of the Nile at Aswan. Once we all returned, we set sail on the big cruiser. In the evening we got to Kom Ombo Temple, a temple again not so ancient, from the time of the Ptolomies and the Greeco Romans. This time we visited a temple at sunset, a little cooler but it makes for better photos. That evening we continued to sail north to Edfu. One of my favorite moments was sitting at the bow of the boat, watching and listening: the warm wind, the stars, the dark outlines of the palm trees, the silvery reflections on the calm water, the crickets, the few lights and sounds from the shore. That's the stuff of dreams, quietly cruising the Nile at night. My guide found me and sat next to me and started talking, breaking the silence. But this become a good thing as he took me to see the pilot and I watched from the control room as the river pilot docked at Edfu. That evening, no temples or Pharoahs, just the river Nile and it's treasures.

In the morning we visited Edfu temple, yet another Ptolomeic Temple dedicated to the god Horus. Edfu is one of the best preserved temples. We then continued sailing north, downstream to the lock at Esna. This lock drops us about 3 m. On the third evening of the cruise we reached Luxor. What timing! The sun was setting over the Valley of the Kings, the Luxor Temple was a golden colour and lot's of activity on the water of this busy tourist city of Upper Egypt.

The next morning, I really felt like a rock star. My guide took me to our car. There was the driver, the travel tour company representative, my guide and me. And before entering the car, I was also greated by vendors trying to sell me a newspaper, another selling hats and film. All this attention for me. Actually, it all makes me uncomfortable. We were driven to the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank. It's a 1/2 hour drive through the villages and fields lying outside the main city of Luxor. At the Valley of the Kings, my guide again spoke for at least 20 minutes too much and too quickly then lets me loose in three tombs. Quite spectacular as many of the walls still have paintings depicting their ancient Egyptian rituals; with the colours still quite vivid. The last tomb I entered there was no one else there except the guard and me. I said to him that it's so quiet. He showed me under the sarcophagus. I gave him 20 Egyptian Pounds, $4. I didn't even ask, yet he let me take photos inside the tomb. It's not allowed, but I guess a little baksheesh goes a long way for these guards who earn a meager wage.

Then we raced off to the Queen Hapshesut Temple, built directly from the limestone cliffs that soar above the tomb. This place was equally impressive. Many statues, and wall carvings with much colour remaining. At this point, mid day, the temperature starts to become a little too much for sightseeing and I was whisked back to my hotel. The 4 day cruise was not over at this point, as I had not visited Karnak or Luxor Temples.

My guide took me to the East bank sights on day 5, knowing I would still be in Luxor. Karnak is huge, and the columns of the hypostyle hall the best part. The end of my trip this summer has been a flurry of activity, but fortunatly almost everything done in the morning, as the daytime temperatures really limit activity. It's time to return to rainy vancouver. Here in upper Egypt, it rains for a day or two once every 5 or six years. Life on the Nile as been a good experience.

---

Photos

Hapshetsut Temple
The Queen Hapshesut Temple on the west bank, at Luxor

The setting sun at Luxor
Looking to the west as we were arriving in Luxor, my last night of the cruise