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Published: August 21st 2006
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The Egyptian National Museum, Cairo
The entrance to the museum, after security, but before depositing my camera. My last full day in Cairo took me to the Egyptian Museum. A five fold procedure to get in. 1) A metal detector 2) buy tickets 3) check you bags and cameras 4) check your tickets and go through the turnstile 5) go through a second metal detector. There were lots of people hanging around. I was asked by several guides if I wanted a tour, I declined. The map in LP was sufficient for me.
Despite the building looking a little like a warehouse, there are some spectacular exhibits on display. The first floor central hall has some very large statues. I found the nearly lifesize statues of the royal couple: Rahotep and Nofret. Amazing that this beautiful statue so well preserved is about 4600 years old. Lot's to see on the first floor, but the main attraction is on the second floor, King Tutankamun. The death mask is a little smaller that I thought it was, about the size of someone's head. I guess this makes total sense, but all the pictures we see don't show any scale. Lots of gold jewelery and other items were buried along with him. He was considered a minor Pharaoh. Image what
The Windsor Hotel
The view from the side of the old building. would have been entombed along with Ramses II? They say that many of the tomb robbers were actually also tomb builders.
After the museum, I walked across the Nile to the island of Zamalek. A little piece of sanctuary in Cairo. I found a nice restuarant recommended by LP. And I bought a couple of items at Fair Trade Egypt, an organization dedicated to helping the poor. Handmade objects are sold at competitive rates and this goes back to the local Cairene individuals who actually made the items. I should add that these items are all made by women, so the money goes back to women. All too often, items are made by women and the money goes to the men. I then walked back to the hotel.
I haven't really described the Windsor Hotel. It's a relic from colonial times, as it once was the Officer's Club for the British Army. It seems as if there were as many staff as guests. The restaurant and bar were decorated with antlers, old newspaper clippings from the past, old and dark wooden chairs and tables. It was almost always empty. The hotel is showing signs of age, but the staff were very friendly and helpful. A picture of Michael Palin is in the lobby, once being a guest on his Around the World in 80 Days. The hotel is downtown near noisy streets. I thought to myself as I first neared the hotel "Oh my, what I have got myself into?" But this stay will be one of my most colourful and memorable. Don't be too quick to judge by appearance.
Last night I took the night train to Aswan. I had a sleeping compartment to myself. We were served dinner and breakfast airplane style. In my compartment I had AC, a sink, towels, soap and a bed. I slept fairly well despite the slowing and starting. It's a rather uneasy feeling to watch as you wizz past in an AC sleeping car being served food as you watch people outside working the fields by hand, riding donkeys, fields of palm trees and a few more people squatting beneath to escape the heat. The trip took 13 1/2 hours.
I took a taxi to my hotel. I am next to the famous Old Cataract Hotel of Agatha Christie fame. I am at the New Cataract Hotel of the cheaper fame. We share facilities including the pool. This'll come in handy as it's 45 degrees today. But although this is very hot, it's also incredibly dry, so any sweat that forms immediately evaporates. I have TV in my room and of course AC. I watched the news to hear that north of Cairo two trains collided. This happened while I was speeding south to Aswan this morning. My cruise to Luxor is not for a couple of days, and part of this tour includes seeing the sites of Aswan. So I get to just hang around the pool and do nothing in this 5 star hotel for a while and live like a Pharaoh.
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