Blogs from Middle Egypt, Egypt, Africa


Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt February 9th 2018

More mysterious than the Pyramids? Yes really! Welcome to Abydos and Dandara! It's a long drive 172km heading north from Luxor to the ancient Middle Kingdom region. We leave at day break, 6.30am giving me half an hour to have breakfast. Traffic is easier on a Friday, the Moslem day of rest. It takes us 3 hours to get there. At both Abydos and Dandara we will find yet more temples and columns adorned with fine artistry and brilliant colors. They are both acclaimed as outstanding Temple complexes. Their wall paintings and reliefs represent millenia of continuous devotion to the gods of the after life and creation. We've met these gods several times already... Isis, Osiris, Amun, Ptah, RE Horakty, Horus. And the goddess Hathor. These are all represented here again in abundance in monuments equal ... read more
The entrance to Abydos temple
High overhead carved in stone among the unreachable hieroglyphs
Trying to Zoom in for a closer view of the mysterious helicopter hieroglyphs

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt October 5th 2016

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion, and avoid the people, you might better stay home. - James A. Michener We woke up this morning to find us docked in Edfu. We are on the side of the boat that is moored to the dock, and there was a guy sitting in a chair seemingly a few feet away, so I closed the drapes pretty fast! We were up ready to leave at 6:30 but Amr said we did have time for breakfast after all, since the boat wasn't leaving until 10 am. We left the boat at 7:30 for our horse drawn carriage ride to the Temple of Horus, about a 10 minute ride. Edfu is a dusty town from what we've seen of it. Amr told us that the carriage ... read more
Docked at Edfu
Heading to the Temple of Horus
Edfu street scenes

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt » Asyut December 22nd 2010

Caly czas podazamy wzdluz Nilu. Jestesmy w Sohag. Spalismy w ogrodach posterunku policji. Niestety mundurowi jada za nami jak cienie. Troche to wkurzajace. Bedziemy probowali ich zgubic. Swieta tuz,tuz, juz za pasem, ale my nie czujemy swiatecznej atmosfery...Gdyby nie to, ze czasem zerkamy do kalendarza, nie mielibymy pojecia, ze to juz prawie Wigilia. Nie pruszy snieg, w sklepach nie graja koledy, nikt nie piecze pierniczkow, nie pala sie kominki a rodziny nie zbieraja sie przy lepieniu pierogow. Z wiezy meczetu zawodzi za to muezin, pod murami przemykaja cicho zakwefione kobiety. Prace polowe nad Nilem w pelni rozkwitu. Otacza nas charmider motorkow, wszechobecny pyl, brud i kurz. No i wszechobecny osiolek! Wszak Jezus tez gdzies tutejsze szlaki na osiolku przemierzal:)... read more
mini-Las palmowy
mini-Centaur - pol czlowiek, pol osiol
mini-IMG 2806

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt » Asyut December 21st 2010

5 dni temu opuscilismy Kair, dzierzac w reku wizy do Sudamu i Etiopii:-) Minelismy Gize z jej wspanialymi piramidami i skierowalismy sie wzdluz Nilu na poludnie. Po synajskiej pustyni, jestesmy oczarowani zielenia i bujnoscia zycia wzdluz rzeki. Jest to magiczna kraina osiolka. Czas sie tu zatrzymal. Ludzie zyja jak zyli ich dziadowie i pra pra x 100 dziadowie. Nic sie nie zmienilo - stroje, obyczaje, menatalnosc no i wszechobecny osiolek ktory jest glowna sila robocza i srodkierm transportu. Jedynymi oznakami tego ze XXI wiek sie tu zakradl sa komorki, motory i samochody ( w tym bardzo polularny nasz PLONEZ:-) Dzis dotarlismy do Asyut. Niestety juz nie sami a w eskorcie policji:-( Niestety taki tu zwyczaj ze dla "dobra" i "bezpieczenstwa" turysty, jedzie sie w konwoju. Jakos do tej pory przemieszczajac sie wzdluz mniejszych kanalow, udalo nam ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt February 20th 2010

Today, I want sandboarding in some dunes about 60 km south of Cairo. I pilled into an old skool Land Cruiser jeep that had a hollowed out covered truck, in which about 8 people could fit. It was a really pleasent ride out, dispite the fact that I was crazy hungover from the party in Aguza the night before. Anyways, I had a few of the really cool guys from West Point in the truck with me, namely Freddie, Nick, and Joe. They are truely great Americans. After about 2 hours on the road, surrounded by desert, we vered off the road and went cruising into the Sahara. It was an incredible visual. 3 classically safari jeeps tearing across the Egyptian desert. After about 20 minutes, moutning dunes, divits, and anything else one finds in the ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt June 17th 2009

“All the good for the American image that was done by Obama’s speech has been undone by Swine Flu” - my roommate’s boss While I’ve been fortunate enough not to fall victim to earth’s trendiest new pandemic, swine flu has taken on a special new importance in my life. For those of you not voraciously following Egyptian news, there have been 7 cases of swine flu diagnosed in Cairo (actually, now it's up to 26, but it started with 7) - all of them foreign students newly arrived at the AUC dorms near downtown, in Zamalek (an upper-class island neighborhood in the Nile, in the middle of Cairo) to take summer courses. This, predictably, ignited a sort of latent frenzy that is so ill-conceived it borders on the hilarious. There is no rioting in the streets, ... read more

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt » Minya June 12th 2009

On one of my first visits to Egypt in 2000, I became wearied by the constant harrassment by touts and pressure to buy souvenirs, tours etc. I longed to go somewhere quiet, with no tourists, no attractions, no hassle.. somewhere I could go to recharge. As I read in my guidebook about the troubles in Middle Egypt, I wondered if that might be the place to go. Not that I was looking for trouble, but that I was looking for a place off the tourist trail. The first thing I noticed in Minya was that hardly anyone speaks English. The second was the restrictions placed on me. There were armed police stationed outside the hotel, and every time I left the hotel I found myself with an armed escort. When I tried to visit local monuments ... read more
Hind and Ruhayim
Mel and Hind

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt May 10th 2009

Bahariyya Oasis is a teardrop-shaped cluster of date palms, rock, hot springs and flowers about 400 kilometers southwest of Cairo. It’s linked by a slender little wedge of green to Farafra Oasis, and surrounding all of this are massive sheets of desert stretching for hours on all sides. The main “city” in Bahariyya is called Bawiti, a bright, ancient, eerily peaceful little town, which is the place towards which, several weeks ago, my friends and I found ourselves barreling on a rickety Egyptian bus, to go camping and hiking in the desert for 4 days. The ride took 5 dusty hours, which wasn’t actually so bad. Once we arrived, we met a Bedouin man called Gareeb who had agreed to take us into the desert. He was pretty young, as it turned out. I had him ... read more
Carmella on a good day
Carmella on a bad day...
Igaazi, the guide who also turned out to be the savviest Arabic-teachers

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt March 29th 2009

Dag 290 og 291. Lordagen sto vi opp litt seinere siden vi hadde vaert ute kvelden for. Zedan og Nadie (bror til Nasser m/ kone) laget frokost til oss og gikk og trippet rundt oss. De var spent paa om vi var like fornoyd med frokosten de (Nadie) laget, som med den Nasser laget. Selvfolgelig var det altfor mye mat - igjen. De haapet paa at vi ville spise middag i leiligheten, for det var tydelig at Nasser hadde fortalt de at vi hadde betalt 40 EP hver for middagene hos han (vi skulle betale det vi mente var en riktig pris) - og at de skulle faa det vi betalte naar han var vekke. Nadie spurte forsiktig om vi ville ha fisk - og ble saa glad da vi svarte ja, og sa at vi ... read more
Abydos 2
Abydos 3
Detalj fra Abydos

Africa » Egypt » Middle Egypt March 25th 2009

The Ladies' Car I just went on the ladies' car in the subway for the first time, and what a place it is! I can’t believe I haven’t gone into it before, having generally opted to subject myself to the more convenient yet significantly more degrading mixed car where my buns almost get a free massage from all of the squeezing from unclaimed hands they receive. Never again, though. From now on, I’m a metro elitist. Girl power. The subways, by the way, are the cleanest and most efficient I’ve ever seen. Which is saying something, considering Egypt is the most disorganized, inefficient, dirty place I’ve ever been. But these subways are well-run, well-staffed, come every 5 minutes, and have no dirt or trash (let alone the smell of urine). That’s another perk of living in ... read more
A walk in the park
Skyline at sunset

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